Acapulco is known for its great beaches and water sports, and, sadly, few visitors bother to explore its traditional downtown area. But it's worth a trip there, to the shady zócalo (also called Plaza Álvarez), to experience a true glimpse of local life and color. Inexpensive cafes and shops border the plaza, and at its far north end is the cathedral Nuestra Señora de la Soledad -- with its blue, onion-shaped domes and Byzantine towers. Though reminiscent of a Russian Orthodox church, it was originally (and perhaps appropriately) built as a movie set, then later adapted to be a house of worship. From the church, turn east along the side street going off at a right angle (calle Carranza, which doesn't have a marker) to find an arcade with newsstands and more shops. The hill behind the cathedral provides an unparalleled view of Acapulco. Take a taxi up to the top of the hill from the main plaza, and follow the signs leading to El Mirador (lookout point).

City tours, day-trips to Taxco, cruises, and other excursions and activities are offered through local travel agencies. Taxco is about a three-hour drive inland from Acapulco.

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The Beaches

Here's a rundown on the beaches, starting from west and going east around the bay. First, Playa la Angosta is a small, sheltered, and often-deserted cove just around the bend from La Quebrada (where the cliff divers perform).

South of downtown on the Peninsula de las Playas lie the beaches Caleta and Caletilla. They're separated by a small outcropping of land that contains the aquarium and water park, Mágico Mundo Marino (open daily, 9am to 7pm). You'll find thatched-roofed restaurants, water-sports equipment for rent, and brightly painted boats that ferry passengers to Roqueta Island. You can rent beach chairs and umbrellas for the day. Mexican families favor these beaches because they're close to several inexpensive hotels. In the late afternoon, fishermen pull their colorful boats up on the sand; you can buy the fresh catch of the day and, occasionally, oysters on the half shell.

Pleasure boats dock at Playa Manzanillo, just south of the zócalo. Charter fishing trips sail from here. In the old days, the downtown beaches -- Manzanillo, Honda, Caleta, and Caletilla -- were the focal point of Acapulco. Today, the beaches and the resort developments stretch along the four-mile length of the shore.

Among the bay beaches that remain popular with visitors and locals alike are Las Caletas and Playa Puerto Marqués.

East of the zócalo, the major beaches are Hornos (near Papagayo Park), Hornitos, Condesa, and Icacos, followed by the naval base (La Base) and Punta del Guitarrón. After Punta del Guitarrón, the road climbs to the legendary Las Brisas hotel, where many of the 300 casitas (bungalow-type rooms) have their own swimming pools (the hotel has a total of 250 pools). Past Las Brisas, the road continues to the small, clean, and separate bay of Puerto Marqués, followed by Punta Diamante, about 12 miles from the zócalo. The fabulous Acapulco Princess, the new Quinta Real, and the Pierre Marqués hotels dominate the landscape here, which fronts the open Pacific.

Playa Marqués, located in the bay of Puerto Marqués, is an attractive area for swimming. The water is calm and the bay sheltered. Water-skiing can also be arranged. Past the bay lies Revolcadero Beach, a magnificent wide stretch of beach on the open ocean, where many of Acapulco's grandest resorts are found. Tres Palos Lagoon is nearby, a fascinating fresh water jungle lagoon.

Other beaches are further north and best reached by car, though buses also make the trip. Pie de la Cuesta is 8 miles west of town (buses that regularly run along the Costera leave every 5 or 10 minutes; a taxi will cost about $18). The water is too rough to swim here, but it's a great spot for checking out big waves and the spectacular sunset, especially over coco locos (drinks served in a fresh coconut with the top whacked off) at one of the rustic beachfront restaurants hung with hammocks. The area is known for excellent birdwatching and surrounding coconut plantations.

If driving, continue west along the peninsula, passing Coyuca Lagoon on your right, until you have almost reached the small air base at the tip. Along the way, you'll be invited to park near different sections of beach by various private entrepreneurs, mostly young boys. You'll also find colectivo boat tours of the lagoon offered for about $8.

In the past decade, the city has gone to great lengths (and great expense) to clean up the waters off Acapulco. Nevertheless, this is an industrial port that was once heavily polluted, so many choose to stick to the hotel pool for a refreshing dip. You may also notice the fleet of more than 20 power-sweeper boats that skim the top of the bay each morning to remove debris and oil film. Bay Cruises & Roqueta Island

A boat deck rocking gently in the ocean is a great spot for viewing the entire bay, and Acapulco has virtually every kind of boat to choose from -- yachts, catamarans, and trimarans (single- and double-deckers). Cruises run morning, afternoon, and evening. Some offer buffets, open bars, and live music; others just snacks, drinks, and taped music. Prices range from $20 to $50. Cruise operators come and go, and their phone numbers change so frequently from year to year that it's pointless to list them here; to find out what cruises are currently operated, contact any Acapulco travel agency or your hotel's tour desk and ask for brochures or recommendations.

Having said that, there is still one cruise that stands out -- it's the Aca Tiki ([tel] 7/484-6140 or 7/484-6786), with its heart-shaped strand of red lights visible from the boat's tall masts. The moonlight cruise, known as the ``love boat,'' has live music, dancing, snacks, and open bar each evening from 10:30pm to 1am. Aca Tiki also offers sunset cruises, with departure times depending upon the time of sunset. Both cruises leave from the malecon across from the central plaza downtown and cost $15 each.

Boats from Caletilla Beach to Roqueta Island -- a good place to snorkel, sunbathe, hike to a lighthouse, visit a small zoo, or have lunch -- leave every fifteen minutes from 7am until the last one returns at 7pm. There are also primitive-style glass-bottom boats that circle the bay as you look down at a few fish and watch a diver swim down to the underwater sanctuary of the Virgin of Guadalupe, patron saint of Mexico. The statue of the Virgin -- created by sculptor Costillo Diaz -- was placed there in 1959, in memory of a group of divers who lost their lives at the spot. You can purchase tickets (for approximately $3) directly from any boat that's loading or at a discount from the information booth on Caletilla Beach ([tel] 7/482-2389).

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Bay Cruises & Roqueta Island

A boat deck rocking gently in the ocean is a great spot for viewing the entire bay, and Acapulco has virtually every kind of boat to choose from -- yachts, catamarans, and trimarans (single- and double-deckers). Cruises run morning, afternoon, and evening. Some offer buffets, open bars, and live music; others just snacks, drinks, and taped music. Prices range from $20 to $50. Cruise operators come and go, and their phone numbers change so frequently from year to year that it's pointless to list them here; to find out what cruises are currently operated, contact any Acapulco travel agency or your hotel's tour desk and ask for brochures or recommendations.

Having said that, there is still one cruise that stands out -- it's the Aca Tiki ([tel] 7/484-6140 or 7/484-6786), with its heart-shaped strand of red lights visible from the boat's tall masts. The moonlight cruise, known as the ``love boat,'' has live music, dancing, snacks, and open bar each evening from 10:30pm to 1am. Aca Tiki also offers sunset cruises, with departure times depending upon the time of sunset. Both cruises leave from the malecon across from the central plaza downtown and cost $15 each.

Boats from Caletilla Beach to Roqueta Island -- a good place to snorkel, sunbathe, hike to a lighthouse, visit a small zoo, or have lunch -- leave every fifteen minutes from 7am until the last one returns at 7pm. There are also primitive-style glass-bottom boats that circle the bay as you look down at a few fish and watch a diver swim down to the underwater sanctuary of the Virgin of Guadalupe, patron saint of Mexico. The statue of the Virgin -- created by sculptor Costillo Diaz -- was placed there in 1959, in memory of a group of divers who lost their lives at the spot. You can purchase tickets (for approximately $3) directly from any boat that's loading or at a discount from the information booth on Caletilla Beach ([tel] 7/482-2389).

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Water Sports & Boat Rentals

An hour of waterskiing can cost as little as $35 or as much as $65. Caletilla Beach, Puerto Marqués Bay, and Coyuca Lagoon have waterskiing facilities. There's also the Club de Esquis located at Costera Alemán no. 100 ([tel] 7/482-2034); it charges $40 per hour.

Scuba diving costs $30 for 1 1/2 hours of instruction if you book directly with the instructor on Caleta Beach. It costs $35 to $45 if you make arrangements through a hotel or travel agency. Dive trips start around $30 per person for one dive.

Boat rentals are least expensive on Caletilla Beach, where an information booth rents inner tubes, small boats, canoes, paddleboats, and beach chairs. It can also arrange waterskiing and scuba diving.

For deep-sea fishing excursions, go to the pale-pink building of the boat cooperative opposite the zócalo, or book a day in advance ([tel] 7/482-1099). Charter fishing trips run from $150 to $200 for six hours, tackle and bait included. Credit cards are accepted, and ice, drinks, and lunch are extra. The fishing license is $9. The boats leave at 8am and return at 3pm. If you book through a travel agent or hotel, fishing trips start around $200 to $280 for four people. Fishing license, food, and drinks are extra.

Parasailing, though not free from risk (the occasional thrill-seeker has collided with a palm tree or even a building), can be brilliant. The pleasure of floating high over the bay hanging from a parachute towed by a motorboat costs about $35. Most of these rides operate on Condesa Beach, but also can be found independently operating on the beach in front of most hotels along the Costera.

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Golf, Tennis, Riding & Bullfights

A round of 18 holes of golf at the Acapulco Princess Hotel ([tel] 7/469-1000) is $63 for guests and $84 for non-guests; American Express, Visa, and MasterCard are accepted. Tee-times begin at 7:35am, and reservations should be made 1 day in advance. Club rental is $21. At the Club de Golf Acapulco, off the Costera next to the Convention Center ([tel] 7/484-0781), you can play 9 holes for $35 and 18 holes for $55, with equipment renting for $12.

Tennis at one of the tennis clubs open to the public goes for about $11 an hour. One option is the Club de Golf Acapulco ([tel] 7/484-0781), open daily 7am to 9pm. Outdoor courts cost $15 during the day and $22 per hour at night; the indoor courts costs $25. Rackets rent for $4 and a set of balls for $2. Many of the hotels along the Costera have tennis facilities for their guests.

You can go horseback riding along the beach. Independent operators stroll the Hotel Zone beachfront offering rides for about $20 to $40, for one to two hours. Horses for riding are also commonly found on the beach in front of the Acapulco Princess Hotel. There is no phone; you have to go directly to one of the beaches to make arrangements.

Traditionally called Fiesta Brava, bullfights are held during Acapulco's winter season at a ring up the hill from Caletilla Beach. Tickets purchased through travel agencies cost around $35 and usually include transportation to and from your hotel. The festivities begin at 5:30pm each Sunday from December to March.

High divers perform at La Quebrada each day at 12:30, 7:15, 8:15, 9:15, and 10:15pm for a $1 admission. From a spotlit ledge on the cliffs, divers (holding torches for the final performance) plunge into the roaring surf 130 feet below -- after wisely praying at a small shrine nearby. To the applause of the crowd, divers climb up the rocks and accept congratulations and gifts of money from onlookers. This is the quintessential Acapulco experience, and no visit here is complete without watching the cliff divers -- this goes for jaded travelers as well.

The public areas have great views, but arrive early as all performances quickly fill up. Another option is to watch from the lobby bar and restaurant terraces of the Hotel Plaza Las Glorias/El Mirador. At the bar, you'll have to pay a $9.50 cover charge, which includes two drinks. You could get around the cover by having dinner at the hotel's La Perla restaurant. Reservations ([tel] 7/483-1155) are recommended during the high season.

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Museums & Water Parks

The original Fuerte de San Diego, Costera Alemán, east of the zócalo, was built in 1616 to protect the town from pirate attacks. At that time, the port reaped considerable wealth from trade with the Philippine Islands (which, like Mexico, was part of the Spanish Empire). The fort you see today was rebuilt after large earthquake damage in 1776, and it just benefited from another renovation in 2000. The structure houses the Museo Histórico de Acapulco (Acapulco Historical Museum), with exhibits that tell the story of Acapulco from its role as a port in the conquest of the Americas to a center for local Catholic conversion campaigns and for exotic trade with the Orient. Other exhibits chronicle Acapulco's pre-Hispanic past, the coming of the conquistadors (complete with Spanish armor), and the subsequent Spanish imperial activity. Temporary shows are also held here.

To reach the fort, follow Costera Alemán past old Acapulco and the zócalo; the fort is on a hill on the right. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 5pm, but the best time to go is in the morning, since the air-conditioning is minimal. The $1.60 admission is waived on Sunday.

The Centro Internacional de Convivencia Infantil (CICI), Costera Alemán, at Colón ([tel] 7/484-8033), is a sea-life and water park east of the Convention Center. It has swimming pools with waves, water slides, and water toboggans. The park is open daily 10am to 6pm. There are dolphin shows at noon, 2:30, and 5pm (in Spanish), and there's also a dolphin swim program, which includes 30 minutes of introduction and 30 minutes of swim time. This park tends to overwork its dolphins. It's an amusement park, and not representative of the more caring and sensitive dolphin swim facilities found in Cancun and Puerto Vallarta. Minimum age is 6 years. Amenities include a cafeteria and restrooms. General admission is $5; children under 2 are admitted free.

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