It's tempting to dismiss Acapulco as a passé resort -- though it's harder to resist the town's temptations. Where else do bronzed men dive from cliffs into the sea at sunset, and where else does the sun shine 360 days a year? Though most beach resorts are made for relaxing, Acapulco has a nonstop, 24-hours-a-day energy. Its perfectly sculpted bay is an adult playground filled with water-skiers in tanga swimsuits and darkly tanned, mirror-shaded studs on jet skis. Golf and tennis are also played with intensity, but the real participant sport is the nightlife, which has made this city famous for decades. Back in the days when there was a jet set, they came to Acapulco -- filmed it, sang about it, wrote about it, and lived it.

It's not hard to understand why: The view of Acapulco Bay, framed by mountains and beaches, is breathtaking day or night. And I dare anyone to take in the lights of the city and not feel the pull to go out and get lively.

Though a few years ago tourism to Acapulco was in a state of decline, it's now experiencing a renaissance, in a style reminiscent of Miami's South Beach. Classic hotels are being renovated and areas gentrified. Clean-up efforts have put a whole new face on a place that was once aging less than gracefully.

International travelers began to reject Acapulco when it became clear that the cost of development was the pollution of the bay and surrounding areas. The catalyst for change was Hurricane Paulina, which hit in October of 1997, exposing the poorly constructed parts of the city and taking 400 lives as it swept through the bay. Since then, over $1.2 billion has been invested in public and private infrastructure improvements that include hotel upgrades, new roads, and a new water and waste treatment facility. In addition, a program called ``ACA-Limpia'' (``Clean Acapulco'') was instituted in the early 1990s, and has cleaned up the water -- whales have even been sighted offshore recently for the first time in years.

A city that never sleeps, Acapulco tries hard to hold on to its image as the grande dame of resorts and the ultimate, extravagant party town. It's still the place for those who want to have dinner at midnight, dance until dawn, and sleep all day on a sun-soaked beach.

I like to think of Acapulco as a diva -- maybe a little past her prime, perhaps overly made up, but still capable of captivating an audience.

back to top

City Layout

Acapulco stretches more than four miles around the huge bay, so trying to take it all in by foot is impractical. The tourist areas are roughly divided into three sections: Old Acapulco (Acapulco Viejo) is the original town that attracted the jet setters of the 1950s and 1960s -- and today it looks like it's still locked in that era, though a sort of a renaissance is underfoot. The second section is known as the Hotel Zone (Zona Hotelera); it follows the main boulevard, Costera Miguel Alemán (or just ``the Costera''), as it runs east along the bay from downtown. The street is lined with towering hotels, restaurants, shopping centers, and strips of open-air beach bars. At the far eastern end of the Costera lie the golf course and the International Center (a convention center).

Avenida Cuauhtémoc is the major artery inland, running roughly parallel to the Costera. The third major area begins just beyond the Hyatt Regency Hotel, where the Costera changes its name to Carretera Escénica (Scenic Highway), which continues all the way to the airport. Along this section of the road the hotels are most lavish, and extravagant private villas, gourmet restaurants, and flashy nightclubs built into the hillside offer dazzling views. The area fronting the beach here is called Acapulco Diamante, Acapulco's most desirable address.

Street names and numbers in Acapulco can be confusing and hard to find -- many streets either are not well marked or change names unexpectedly. Fortunately, there's seldom a reason to be far from the Costera, so it's hard to get lost. Street numbers on the Costera do not follow logic, so don't assume that similar numbers will necessarily be close together.

back to top

Getting Around

By Taxi. Taxis are more plentiful than tacos in Acapulco -- and practically as inexpensive if you're traveling in the downtown area only. Just remember that you should always establish the price with the driver before starting out. Hotel taxis may charge three times the rate of a taxi hailed on the street, and nighttime taxi rides cost extra too. Taxis are also more expensive if you're staying in the Diamante section or south. The minimum fare is $1.50 per ride for a roving VW bug-style taxi in town, with the fare from Puerto Marqués to the hotel zone costing $8, or $10 into downtown. Sitio taxis are nicer cars, but more expensive, with a minimum fare of $3.

The fashion among Acapulco taxis is to decorate them with flashy, Las Vegas style lights -- the more colorful and pulsating, the better. It appears to be almost a local competition. And there's no extra charge for the added embellishments.

By Bus. Even though the city has a confusing street layout, it's amazingly easy and inexpensive to use city buses. Two kinds of buses run along the Costera: pastel color-coded buses and regular ``school buses.'' The difference is the price: New air-conditioned tourist buses (Aca Tur Bus) are 35; old buses, 3. Covered bus stops are located all along the Costera, with handy maps on the walls showing bus routes to major sights and hotels.

The best place near the zócalo to catch a bus is next to Sanborn's, two blocks east. ``Caleta Directo'' or ``Base-Caleta'' buses will take you to the Hornos, Caleta, and Caletilla beaches along the Costera. Some buses return along the same route; others go around the peninsula and return to the Costera.

For expeditions to more distant destinations, there are buses to Puerto Marqués to the east (marked puerto marqués -- base) and Pie de la Cuesta to the west (marked zócalo -- pie de la cuesta). Be sure to verify the time and place of the last bus back if you hop on one of these.

By Car. Rental cars are available both at the airport and at hotel desks along the Costera. Unless you plan on exploring outlying areas, you're better off taking taxis or using the easy and inexpensive public buses. Traffic can get tangled, and it's much easier to leave the driving to someone else.

back to top

Visitor Information

The State of Guerrero Tourism Office operates the Procuraduría del Turista on street level in front of the International Center ([tel]/fax 7/484-4583 or 7/484-4416), a convention center set back from the main avenida Alemán, down a lengthy walkway with fountains. The office offers maps and information about the city and state, as well as police assistance for tourists; it's open daily 9am to 10pm.

back to top

Climate

Acapulco boasts sunshine 360 days a year, with average daytime temperatures of 80. Humidity varies, with approximately 59 inches of rain per year. June through October is the rainy season, though July and August are relatively dry. Tropical showers are brief and usually occur at night.

back to top

Currency Exchange

Numerous banks are located along the Costera and are open Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm and Saturday 10am to 1:30pm. Banks, and their automatic teller machines, generally have the best rates. Casas de cambio (currency exchange booths) along the street may have better exchange rates than hotels.

back to top

Consular Agents

The United States has an agent at the Hotel Club del Sol on Costera Alemán at Reyes Católicos ([tel]7/481-1699 or 7/469-0556), across from the Hotel Acapulco Plaza; the office is open Monday to Friday 10am to 2pm. The Canadian office is at the Centro Comercial Marbella, Local 23 ([tel] 7/484-1305). They have a toll-free emergency number inside of Mexico, [tel] 01-800-706-2900. The office is open Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm. Most countries in the European Union also have consulate offices in Acapulco.

back to top

Safety

Riptides claim a few lives every year, so pay close attention to warning flags posted on Acapulco beaches. Red or black flags mean stay out of the water, yellow flags signify caution, and white or green flags mean it's safe to swim.

As is the case anywhere, tourists are vulnerable to thieves. This is especially true when shopping in a market, lying on the beach, wearing jewelry, or visibly carrying a camera, purse, or bulging wallet.

If you see policemen in uniforms of white and light blue, they belong to a special corps of English-speaking police established to assist tourists.

back to top