Antiguans boast that they have a different beach for every day of the year. That may be an exaggeration, but the beaches here are certainly spectacular: Most are protected by coral reefs, and the sand is often sugar white.

Antigua, Barbuda, and Redonda form the independent nation of Antigua and Barbuda, within the Commonwealth of Nations. Redonda is an uninhabited rocky islet of less than a square mile, located 20 miles southwest of Antigua.

Antigua (an-TEE-gah) is an independent nation, but it is still British in many of its traditions. Economically, it has transformed itself from a poverty-stricken island of sugar plantations to a modern-day vacation haven. The landscape of rolling, rustic Antigua is dotted with stone towers that were once sugar mills.

The inland scenery isn't as dramatic as what you'll find on St. Kitts, but, oh, those beaches! If you want high rises and glittering gambling and nightlife, head elsewhere, perhaps to Puerto Rico. Antigua does have some casinos, but they're hardly a reason to visit, and most of its hotels are intimate one- or two-story inns rather than glitzy, sprawling resorts. In general, the dining and shopping of Antigua are comparable to those of St. Kitts but don't hold up to those of St. Maarten or the U.S. Virgin Islands.

Most locals will treat you with respect if you show them respect, but Antigua is hardly the friendliest of islands in the Caribbean -- too much unemployment, too great a gap between rich and poor.

Most hotels, restaurants, beach bars, and water-sports facilities lie north of the capital of St. John's, in the northwest. St. John's is a large, neatly laid-out town 6 miles from the airport and less than a mile from Deep Water Harbour Terminal. This port city is the focal point of commerce and industry and the seat of government and shopping. Protected within a narrow bay, St. John's is charming, with cobblestone sidewalks and weather-beaten wooden houses with corrugated iron roofs and louvered Caribbean verandas. Trade winds keep the wide streets cool. Since all the major resorts are on good beaches, most visitors tend to stay put, going into St. John's for a day's shopping jaunt or to English Harbour for some history.

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Visitor Information

Before you leave, you can contact the Antigua and Barbuda Department of Tourism, 610 Fifth Ave., Suite 311, New York, NY 10020 ([tel] 212/541-4117); or 25 SE Second Ave., Suite 300, Miami, FL 33131 ([tel] 305/381-6762). A new toll-free number also provides information: [tel] 888/268-4227. Live operators are available Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm eastern standard time. You can also look up the department's Web site, at www.antigua-barbuda.org.

On the island, the Antigua and Barbuda Department of Tourism, at Thames and Long streets in St. John's ([tel] 268/462-0480), is open Monday to Thursday from 8am to 4:30pm and on Friday from 8am to 3pm.

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Getting Around

By taxi. Taxis meet every airplane, and drivers wait outside the major hotels. If you're going to spend a few days here, a particular driver may try to ``adopt'' you. The typical one-way fare from the airport to St. John's is $12, but to English Harbour it's $25 and up. The government of Antigua fixes rates, and taxis are meterless.

Taxis aren't cheap, but they're the best way to see Antigua, as the drivers also act as guides. Most taxi tours go from the St. John's area to English Harbour. Drivers generally charge $40 for three or four passengers and often wait 30 minutes or more while you sightsee around English Harbour. If you split the cost with another couple, these tours become more affordable.

To call a taxi in St. John's, dial [tel] 268/462-0711; after 6pm, dial [tel] 268/462-5190.

By rental car. Renting a car on Antigua is not advisable. Newly arrived drivers quickly learn that the island's roads are terribly potholed and poorly signposted.

It's best to stick with the major U.S. rental companies rather than use a local agency. Avis ([tel] 800/331-1212 in the U.S., or 268/462-2840 in Antigua; www.avis.com) and Hertz ([tel] 800/654-3131 in the U.S., or 268/462-6450 in Antigua; www.hertz.com) offer pickup service at the airport. Another agency to try is Dollar on Nevis St., St. John's ([tel] 800/800-4000 in the U.S., or 268/462-0362 in Antigua; www.dollarcar.com). Budget is also represented on Antigua with a kiosk at the airport ([tel] 800/472-3325 in the U.S., or 268/462-3009 in Antigua; www.budgetrentacar.com).

By motorcycle and scooter. For the cheapest wheels on the island, rent a motorcycle or scooter from Shipwreck, English Harbour ([tel] 268/464-7771). Yamaha and Honda motorcycles rent for about $35 per day or $150 per week; scooters cost $25 per day and $85 per week. You'll save so much by renting one of these that you may not even mind the bumpy ride.

By bus. We don't recommend buses for the average visitor, though they are an inexpensive option. Service is erratic and undependable, and roads are impossibly bumpy. Buses are supposed to operate between St. John's and the villages daily from 5:30am to 6pm, but don't count on it. In St. John's, buses leave from two different ``stations'' -- near the Central Market and near the Botanical Gardens. Most fares are $1.

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Weather

The average year-round temperature ranges from 75 to 85.

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Currency And Banks

These islands use the Eastern Caribbean dollar (EC$). Nearly all hotels bill in U.S. dollars, however, and only certain tiny restaurants present their prices in EC$. When you inquire about a price, make sure you know the type of dollars quoted. The EC dollar is worth about 37 cents in U.S. currency (EC$2.70 = U.S.$1).

Banks are usually open Monday to Thursday from 8am to 1pm and on Friday from 8am to 1pm and 3 to 5pm. The best bank for visitors is Royal Bank at High and Market streets in St. John's. You'll find an ATM here and one at the airport.

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Documents And Customs

A valid passport is preferred from U.S., British, and Canadian nationals. An original birth certificate accompanied by a photo ID is also acceptable, but we recommend that you carry a passport when visiting a foreign country. All arriving visitors must have a departing ticket. Arriving visitors are allowed to bring in 200 cigarettes, 1 quart of liquor, and 6 ounces of perfume.

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Time

Antigua is on Atlantic standard time year-round, so it's 1 hour ahead of U.S. eastern standard time. When daylight saving time takes over in the States, then Antigua's time is the same as in the eastern United States.

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Electricity

Most of the island's electricity is 220-volt AC (60 cycles), which means that U.S. appliances require transformers. The Hodges Bay area and some hotels, however, are supplied with 110-volt AC (60 cycles).

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Safety

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Antigua is generally safe, but that doesn't mean you should wander alone at night on St. John's near-deserted streets. Don't leave valuables unguarded on the beach either.

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