The Best Beaches

Old Fort Beach (New Providence Island): With pristine white sands and turquoise water, this is the least developed major beach on New Providence Island, near the relatively unpopulated western tip of The Bahamas's most crowded island. Many of its biggest fans are homeowners from nearby Lyford Cay, whose homes are among the priciest in The Bahamas. The beach is least crowded on weekdays, and windiest throughout the winter. There's great waterskiing in summer, when waters are the calmest.

Cable Beach (New Providence Island): The glittering shoreline of Cable Beach has easy access to shops, casinos, restaurants, water sports, and bars. It's a sandy 4-mile-long strip, with a great array of facilities and activities.

Cabbage Beach (Paradise Island): Think Vegas in the tropics. It seems as if most of the sunbathers dozing on the sands here are recovering from the previous evening's partying. It's likely to be crowded near the megahotels, but you can find a bit more solitude on the beach's isolated northwestern extension (Paradise Beach), which is accessible only by boat or on foot. Lined with palms, sea grapes, and casuarinas, the sands are broad and stretch for at least 2 miles.

Xanadu Beach (Grand Bahama Island): Grand Bahama has 60 miles of sandy shoreline, but Xanadu Beach is most convenient to Freeport's resort hotels, several of which offer shuttle service to Xanadu. There's more than a mile of white sand and (usually) gentle surf. Don't expect to have Xanadu to yourself, but if you want more quiet and privacy, try any of the beaches that stretch from Xanadu for many miles in either direction.

Tahiti Beach (Hope Town, the Abacos): Since the beach is so isolated at the far end of Elbow Cay Island, you can be sure that only a handful of people will ever visit these cool waters and white sands. The crowds stay away because you can't drive to Tahiti Beach: To get there, you'll have to walk or ride a rented bike along sand and gravel paths from Hope Town. You can also charter a boat to get there, which isn't too hard, since the Abacos are the sailing capital of The Bahamas.

Pink Sands Beach (Harbour Island): Running the entire length of the island's eastern side, these pale pink sands stretch for 3 miles past a handful of low-rise hotels and private villas. A coral reef protects the shore from breakers, making for some of the safest swimming in The Bahamas.

Ten Bay Beach (Eleuthera): Ten Bay Beach lies a short drive south of Palmetto Point, just north of Savannah Sound. Once upon a time, the exclusive Cotton Bay Club chose to build here for a good reason; there may not be any facilities here, but since the hotel has closed, the white sands and turquoise waters are even more idyllic and private.

Saddle Cay (the Exumas): Most of the Exumas are oval-shaped islands strung end to end like the links of a 130-mile chain. One notable exception is Saddle Cay, with a horseshoe-shaped curve near the Exumas's northern tip. It can be reached only by boat. Once you reach it, you'll find an unspoiled setting without a trace of the modern world and lots of other cays and islets where you can play Robinson Crusoe for a few hours.

Stocking Island (the Exumas): One of the finest white sandy beaches in The Bahamas lies off Elizabeth Harbour, the main harbor of the archipelago, close to the capital of George Town. A mile from the little town of George Town, Stocking Island is easily accessible by boat from Elizabeth Harbour. The sands of this offshore island are rarely crowded, and snorkelers and divers love to explore its gin-clear waters. In addition to its beach of powdery white sand, Stocking Island is known for its "blue holes" and for its coral gardens and undersea caves.

Cat Island's Beaches: The white sandy beaches ringing this island are pristine, opening onto crystal-clear waters and lined with coconut palms, palmettos, and casuarina trees -- and best of all, you'll practically have the place to yourself. One of our favorite beaches here, near Old Bight, has a beautiful, lazy curve of white sand. Another fabulous beach lies 3 miles north of New Bight, site of the Fernandez Bay Village resort. This curvy white sandy beach is set against a backdrop of casuarinas, and is idyllic and unusually tranquil. A final good beach is the long, sandy stretch that opens onto Hawk's Nest Resort and Marina on the southwestern side. None of the Cat Island beaches has any facilities (bring anything you need from your hotel), but they do have peace and quiet and seclusion.

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The Best Diving

New Providence Island: Many ships have sunk near Nassau in the past 300 years, and all the dive outfitters here know the most scenic wreck sites. Other attractions are underwater gardens of elk-horn coral and dozens of reefs brimming with underwater life. The most spectacular dive site is the Shark Wall, 10 miles off the southwest coast of New Providence; it's blessed with incredible, colorful sea life and the healthiest coral offshore. You'll even get to swim with sharks (not as bait, of course).

Grand Bahama Island: The island is ringed with reefs, and dive sites are plentiful, including the Wall, the Caves (site of a long-ago disaster known as Theo's Wreck), and Treasure Reef. Other popular dive sites include Spit City (yes, that's right), Ben Blue Hole, and the Rose Garden (no one knows how this one got its name). What makes Grand Bahama Island a cut above the others is the presence of a world-class dive operator, UNEXSO (the Underwater Explorer's Society; [tel] 888/365-3483 or 242/373-1250).

Andros: Marine life abounds in the barrier reef off the coast of Andros, which is one of the largest in the world and a famous destination for divers. The reef plunges 6,000 feet to a narrow drop-off known as the Tongue of the Ocean. You can also explore mysterious blue holes, formed when subterranean caves fill with seawater, causing their ceilings to collapse and exposing clear, deep pools.

Bimini: Although Bimini is most famous for its game fishing, it boasts excellent diving, too. Three miles of offshore reefs attract millions of colorful fish. Even snorkelers can see black coral gardens, blue holes, and an odd configuration on the sea floor that is reportedly part of the lost continent of Atlantis (a fun legend, at any rate). Divers can check out the wreck of a motorized yacht, the Sapona (owned by Henry Ford), which sank in shallow waters off the coast in 1929.

Eleuthera: In addition to lovely coral and an array of colorful fish, divers can enjoy some unique experiences here, such as the "Current Cut," an exciting underwater gully that carries you on a swiftly flowing underwater current for 10 minutes. Four wrecked ships also lie nearby, at depths of less than 40 feet, including a barge that was transporting the engine of a steam locomotive in 1865, reportedly after the American Confederacy sold it to raise cash for its war effort.

Long Island (the Southern Bahamas): Snorkeling is spectacular on virtually all sides of the island. But experienced divers venturing into deeper waters offshore can visit underwater cages to feed swarms of mako, bull, and reef sharks. Dive sites abound, including the Arawak "green hole," a blue hole of incomprehensible depth.

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The Best Snorkeling

New Providence Island/Paradise Island: The waters that ring densely populated New Providence Island and nearby Paradise Island are easy to explore. Most people head for the Rose Island Reefs, the Gambier Deep Reef, Booby Rock Channel, the Goulding Reef Cays, and some easily seen, well-known underwater wrecks that lie in shallow water. Virtually every resort hotel on the island offers equipment and can book you onto a snorkel cruise to sites further offshore.

Bimini: Snorkelers are enthralled with the offshore black coral gardens, which are easily accessible from shore, and the colorful marine life around the island. Sometimes when conditions are right, snorkelers enjoy frolicking with a pod of spotted dolphins. Off North Bimini, snorkelers are attracted to a cluster of huge, flat rocks that jut from 20 to 30 feet out of the water at Paradise Point. The most imaginative snorkelers claim these rocks, which seem hand-hewn, are part of a road system that once traversed the lost continent of Atlantis.

Long Island: Shallow bays and sandy beaches offer many possibilities for snorkeling, and the staffs at both major resorts will direct you to the finest conditions near their stretches of beach. The southern end of the island is especially dramatic because of its unique sea cliffs. Many east-coast beach coves also offer fantastic snorkeling opportunities.

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The Best Fishing

Bimini: All kinds of big-game fish flourish in the deep waters around Bimini, but the most sought-after trophy is the marlin, whose image appears on the Bahamian $100 bill. As many as 40 annual fishing tournaments are held every year in The Bahamas, many of which transform Bimini into a mini-Olympic village where fish are hunted by a daunting armada of well-equipped fishing boats. Bimini was Ernest Hemingway's favorite place to fish.

Andros: Bonefish thrive in the shallow, sunlit waters off Andros Island. It isn't the best-tasting fish in the islands (it's mostly cartilage and bones), but serious anglers say that it puts up one of the strongest fights of any fish in the world. Other islands good for bonefishing include Bimini, Walker's Cay, Abaco, Eleuthera, Exuma, and Long Island.

The Abacos: In the Marsh Harbour area, you'll find bonefish in the flats, marlin in the deep, and yellowtail on the reefs -- and many of the world's greatest anglers will be in hot pursuit. In Elbow Cay, you can arrange to head out with the local fishermen. Another good place for deep-sea charters in the Abacos is Green Turtle Cay, which hosts a hugely popular fishing tournament each May.

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The Best Sailing

The Abacos: Known among yachties for their many anchorages, sheltered coves, and plentiful marine facilities, the Abacos are considered one of the most perfect sailing areas in the world. You can charter boats of all shapes and sizes for a week or longer, with or without a crew. Major charter centers are in Marsh Harbour and Hope Town. Arrange for rentals with The Moorings ([tel] 800/535-7289 or 242/367-4000), in Marsh Harbour.

The Exumas: Every April, the Exumas host the famed Family Island Regatta, the most popular sailing event in The Bahamas. Elizabeth Harbour is a mecca for yachties, who explore nearby deserted islands and cays, secluded bays, safe anchorage harbors, and secret coves. Even in winter, unless the weather turns unexpectedly bad (and foul weather is usually short-lived), the seas are balmy and the temperatures ideal. Yacht magazines praise the Exumas for having the finest cruising areas in The Bahamas.

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The Best Golf Courses

South Ocean Golf Course (New Providence Island; [tel] 242/362-4391): This course, designed by Joe Lee with four challenging water holes, is so isolated from the congestion of Nassau that you can imagine yourself on a remote island. The rolling terrain is hilly and dotted with palm trees; from this relatively high elevation, you'll enjoy views over the "Tongue of the Ocean." We think this course is better and more demanding than the other major choice on New Providence Island at Cable Beach.

Cable Beach Golf Course (New Providence Island; [tel] 242/327-6000): The oldest golf course in The Bahamas, this par-72 green was the private retreat of British expatriates in the 1930s. Today, it's managed by a corporate namesake of Arnold Palmer and owned by Cable Beach casino marketers. Small ponds and water traps heighten the challenge, amid more than 7,000 yards of well-maintained greens and fairways. Despite these assets, however, we still prefer the competition: the Ocean Club Golf Club and the South Ocean Golf Course.

Ocean Club Golf Club (Paradise Island; [tel] 242/363-3925): Tom Weiskopf designed this 18-hole, par-72 course, and it's a stunner. With its own pitfalls, including the world's largest sand trap and water hazards (the Atlantic Ocean) on three sides, Jack Nicklaus and Gary Player have endorsed this course. For the best panoramic ocean view (good enough to take your mind off your game), play the par 3 14th hole.

The Reef Course (Grand Lucaya, Grand Bahama Island; [tel] 242/373-2002): Designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr., this is the first golf course to open in The Bahamas in some 3 decades. The course boasts 6,920 yards of links-style playing grounds.

The Resorts at Bahamia (Grand Bahama Island; [tel] 242/350-7000): This megaresort offers two golf courses, Bahama's Ruby and Bahama's Emerald, both of which are par 72, with rolling, sandy terrain. Dick Wilson designed both of these courses, but they're not as challenging as the South Ocean Golf Course.

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The Best Tennis Facilities

Paradise Island: Paradise Island has the best courts and the best players in The Bahamas. If you're really serious about your game, consider checking into Club Med Paradise ([tel] 242/363-2640), which has the largest court complex on the island, with 20 clay composition courts (eight of them lit for night games), ball machines, a full staff of instructors who offer expert advice, and an instant-replay TV. The tennis complex at the Atlantis ([tel] 242/363-3000) is more accessible to the general public, with a dozen asphalt courts, some lit for night games.

Freeport (Grand Bahama Island): Freeport is another top choice for tennis buffs. The Resorts at Bahamia ([tel] 800/545-1300 or 242/350-7000) has 12 state-of-the-art courts, three of them clay and eight lit for night games. You don't have to be a guest to play here, but you should call ahead for a reservation.

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Bike & Scooter Rentals

Most biking or scooter riding is done either on New Providence Island (Nassau) or on Grand Bahama Island; both have relatively flat terrain. Biking is best on Grand Bahama Island because it's bigger, with better roads and more places to go. Getting around New Providence Island is relatively easy once you're out of the congestion of Nassau and Cable Beach. In Nassau many hotels will rent you a bike or motor scooter.

On Grand Bahama Island, you can rent bikes at most big hotels. You can also rent motor scooters starting at about $35 per day. The tourist office at Freeport/Lucaya will outline on a map the best biking routes.

In the Out Islands, roads are usually too bumpy and potholed for much serious biking or scooter riding. Bike-rental places are almost non-existent unless your hotel has some vehicles.

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Hiking

The Bahamas isn't the greatest destination for serious hikers. The best hiking is on Grand Bahama Island, especially in Lucayan National Park, which spreads across 40 acres and is located some 20 miles from Lucaya. A large map at the entrance to the park outlines the trails. The park is riddled with trails and elevated walkways. The highlight of the park is what may be the largest underground cave system in the world, some 7 miles long. Spiral steps let you descend into an eerie underground world.

Also on Grand Bahama Island, the Rand Memorial Nature Centre is the second-best place for hiking. It offers some 100 wooded acres that you can explore on your own or with a tour guide. A half mile of winding trails acquaints you with the flora and fauna that call Grand Bahama home, everything from a native boa constrictor to the Cuban emerald hummingbird, whose favorite food is the nectar of the hibiscus.

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Horseback Riding

The best riding possibilities are at Pinetree Stables on Grand Bahama Island ([tel] 242/373-3600). Its beach rides are especially interesting. Both trail and beach rides are offered two times a day, Tuesday through Sunday; be sure to book rides a few days in advance.

Virtually the only place on New Providence Island (Nassau) that offers horseback riding is Happy Trails Stables, Carl Harbour ([tel] 242/362-1820), which features both morning and afternoon trail rides and requires a reservation. These tours include transportation to and from your hotel. The trail rides are guided through the woods and along the beach. Horseback riding is hardly a passion on the other islands.

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