Nightlife is not one of the compelling reasons to go to Bermuda, although there is some after-dark action, mainly in the summer. If you visit during the winter, we trust you'll be content to nurse a drink in a pub.

In the summer, activity seems to float from hotel to hotel, which makes it hard to predict which pub or nightspot will have the best steel-drum or calypso band at any given time. Many pubs feature singalongs at the piano bar, a popular form of entertainment in Bermuda. Most of the big hotels offer shows after dinner, with combos filling in between shows for couples who like to dance.

The island's visitor centers and most hotels distribute free copies of such publications as Preview Bermuda, Bermuda Weekly, and This Week in Bermuda, which list the latest scheduled activities and events. There's also a calendar of events in the Bermudian, sold at most newsstands.

You can also tune in to the local TV station, which constantly broadcasts information for visitors, including details on cultural events and nightlife offerings around the island. Radio station 1160 AM (VSB) broadcasts news of Bermuda cultural and entertainment events from 7am to noon daily.

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The Club & Music Scene

After Hours (Paget Parish): The idea of an after-hours club in sleepy Bermuda, where many guests turn in at 9pm, seems incongruous. But there is such a place. Local night owls flock here for good burgers and good times, downing food and drink until they're turned away. The club is very popular with the locals, especially those who don't have to get up at 7am to report to work. The kitchen also turns out well-stuffed sandwiches and curries for those late-night munchies. Open Monday to Thursday 7pm to 2am, Friday to Sunday 7pm to 5am. 117 South Rd. (past the intersection with Middle Rd.). [tel] 441/236-8563.

Henry VIII (Southhampton Parish): This restaurant is also a good bet for music and comedy. Piano music and singing are often featured, and comedians often join in. Performances begin at 9pm and last until the restaurant closes at 1am. The stage is visible from the pub and from one of the restaurant's three dining areas. South Shore Rd., Southampton Parish. [tel] 441/238-1977. No cover.

Club 40 (Pembroke Parish): This upscale spot features music from the `70s and `80s, along with Latin and top 40 selections. Live music is also featured. The dress code forbids jeans or sneakers -- smart casual is the way to go. Open daily 9pm to 3am. 119 Front St. [tel] 441/292-9340. Cover $10 after 11pm.

Coconut Rock (Pembroke Parish): With a name more evocative of the Caribbean than Bermuda, this restaurant has two of the most active bars in town. It draws locals and visitors (in equal numbers) with background music and videos of the hottest acts in the U.K. and America, including the inevitable Ricky Martin. On slow nights, only one bar is open; on Friday, the second, the Bourgon Lounge, becomes a venue for jazz. Every other week there's jazz and poetry on ``Flow Sundays,'' when musicians and poets in the audience get 15-minute ``spots.'' Happy hour is daily from 5 to 7pm. Open daily 11am to 1am. Williams House, 20 Reid St. [tel] 441/292-1043. No cover.

The Oasis Nightlife & The Rock Room (Pembroke Parish): One of Bermuda's leading clubs, the Oasis is on the third floor of a stylish commercial building in the center of Hamilton. It has been renovated in New York warehouse style, and there's lots of special-effects lighting. TV monitors throughout provide background video effects; the extensive music repertoire includes the latest Top 40 dance music. Top North American club bands complement local bands playing rock and blues in the Rock Room. Drink prices range from $5.50 to $7. Open daily 10:30pm to 3:30am. In the Emporium Building, 69 Front St. [tel] 441/292-4978. Cover $10 daily May-Sept; $10 off-season Fri-Sat only.

The Spinny Wheel (Pembroke Parish): If you'd like to escape from the tourist hordes and enjoy a pint with the locals, head to this longtime favorite, a virtual institution since opening in 1970. Named for the Fifth Dimension (remember them?) song, it's a relaxing place that has an outdoor pool area with a bar. There's live music downstairs. An upstairs section for disco dancing draws a young crowd. Happy hour is 6 to 9pm Monday to Friday. Open daily noon to 3am. 33 Court St. [tel] 441/292-7799. No cover.

Clay House Inn (Devonshire Parish): Although calypso and steel-band music originated on islands south of Bermuda, this nightclub offers up those musical forms with panache. You're likely to see a folkloric celebration of island dances, with vocal and instrumental music; it's a carefully contrived package of Caribbean-style nostalgia. Shows are Wednesday and Thursday year-round; doors open at 9:45pm, and the entertainment lasts until right after midnight. Friday and Saturday the club features reggae music from 11pm to 3am. 77 North Shore Rd. [tel] 441/292-3193 for reservations. Cover $22.50 per person (includes 2 drinks).

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The Bar Scene

Frog & Onion (Sandys Parish): Converted from an 18th-century cooperage, or barrel-making factory, this British-style pub is in the Royal Naval Dockyard. It serves bar snacks throughout the afternoon and evening. Operated by a "frog" (a Frenchman) and an "onion" (a Bermudian), the pub is open daily noon to 1am. The Cooperage, Royal Naval Dockyard, Ireland Island. [tel] 441/234-2900. No cover.

Casey's (Pembroke Parish): There's nothing flashy about this long, narrow room, which seems to be a favorite with locals. The owner, Wesley Robinson, knows many of his patrons, and is an expert at mixing the house specialty, a ``Dark and Stormy'' (black rum with splashes of ginger beer). Look for yellowed photographs of old Bermuda and a carefully preserved, wall-mounted marlin caught by the owner in 1982. Friday nights here are the most popular on the island, and the joint overflows. There's no live music or food (although no one will mind if you bring your lunch from any of the take-out places nearby). Go here only if you like to wander far off the beaten tourist trail and want a look at the more ethnic side of Bermuda. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 10pm. 25 Queen St. (between Reid and Church sts.). No phone. No cover.

Docksider (Pembroke Parish): This sports bar on Hamilton's main drag is lively until the early hours. At a long cedar bar, you'll see some of the most avid sports fans on Bermuda. There are 15 TVs. One section is a wine bar, which is more intimate; another section is a pool bar. You can also order pub grub, such as fish-and-chips or shepherd's pie. Happy hour is daily from 5 to 7pm. Open daily 1:30am to 1am (until 2am on Fri and Sat). 121 Front St. [tel] 441/296-3333. No cover.

Flanagan's (Pembroke Parish): On the second floor of a landmark building, this restaurant-pub is the domain of Irishman Thomas Gallagher, who extends a cead mile failte, or ``100,000 welcomes.'' This club has some of the town's best music -- reggae, rock, soca, and what is often called ``party music.'' There are two bars that feature exotic drinks. Happy hour is daily from 5 to 7pm. In the sports bar you can watch European soccer matches; there are eight other 27-inch screens. Open daily 10am to 1pm. Emporium Building, 69 Front St. [tel] 441/295-8299. No Cover.

Hubie's Bar (Pembroke Parish): Islanders come here to listen to jazz with an interesting mix of people of various backgrounds and ages. There's jazz on Friday from 7 to 10pm -- go early, because the club fills quickly. On other nights there's jukebox music. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 10pm. Angle St. [tel] 441/293-9287. No cover.

The Pickled Onion (Pembroke Parish): For years, Ye Old Cock & Feather was one of Bermuda's landmark pubs. In 1997, it glaringly changed its image (as well as its name), and the once fairly staid pub became a stop on the after-dark circuit. Funky fabrics cover the booths and tables where patrons listen to music that ranges from blues to oldies of the past 50 years. Live music starts at 10pm. Happy hour is Monday to Saturday from 5 to 7pm. Open daily 11:30am to around midnight. 53 Front St. [tel] 441/295-2263.

Robin Hood Pub & Restaurant (Pembroke Parish): The merry women and men of Bermuda flock here for a variety of entertainment options. It serves fine pub fare, including some of Bermuda's best pizzas. It's also the island's number-one sports bar, with video coverage of various U.S. and British league competitions. From April to October, a deejay plays reggae on Monday nights. On other nights you can enjoy everything from live entertainment to quizzes. Friday and Saturday are jukebox nights devoted to reggae or rock. Sometimes prizes are awarded to the patron who can drink a pint of ale fastest. Open Monday to Saturday 11am to 1am, Sunday noon to 1am. 25 Richmond Rd. [tel] 441/295-3314.

North Rock Brewing Company (Smith's Parish): If you want to find us in Bermuda, chances are we'll be at this watering hole, Bermuda's first brewpub. The draft beer is brewed on the premises right before your eyes. Pub seating envelops the glass-enclosed brewery where you can see such brew as Old Colony Bitters and Somers Ale being brewed. Some of the mugs are 22 ounces. These brews are only for local consumption and not sold elsewhere. You'll find a selection of fresh ales on any given day, including ``Whale of a Wheat'' and ``North Rock Porter.'' The outdoor roadside patio adds a British flavor. See previous restaurant recommendation in chapter 5, ``Dining,'' for more details. The pub is open daily from 11am to 11pm year-round. 10 South Rd. Tel. 441/236-6633. No Cover.

Swizzle Inn (Hamilton Parish): The home of the Bermuda rum swizzle, this bar and restaurant lies west of the airport, near the Crystal Caves and the Bermuda Perfumery. You can order a Swizzleburger and fish-and-chips throughout the day. In the old days, you might've run into Ted Kennedy here; now his wife steers him to more sedate places. The tradition is to tack your business card to anyplace you can find a spot, even the ceiling. The jukebox plays both soft and hard rock. Open daily 11am to 1am; closed Monday in January and February. 3 Blue Hole Hill, Bailey's Bay. [tel] 441/293-1854. No cover.

Longtail Lounge & Café (Southhampton Parish): Set on the lobby of the also-recommended hotel, this place functions as a simple garden-style restaurant during the lunch hour, and as a pulsating bar and lounge every evening after sundown. From one of its deep-cushioned armchairs, you'll have a sweeping view of the beach through big windows, as you enjoy live entertainment, usually a pianist or calypso trio, every night from 9:30am till closing. The house specialty drink, priced at $7.25, is a Dark and Stormy, made from local Black Seal rum mixed with ginger beer. Lunch is served daily from noon to 3pm (no dinner), with platters costing $10 to $15. Bar and snack service is daily from 11:30am to 12:45am. In the Sonesta Beach Resort South Shore Rd. Tel. 441/238-8122.

St. George Parish: The little port of St. George and adjoining St. David's Island are a pubber's haven. Our favorite is Black Horse Tavern, a perfect spot for a congenial evening in good company. It lies on St. David's Island immediately adjoining St. George and is worth the trek over there. If you get hungry, you can always order a plate of shark hash to go with your beer. Back in St. George itself, Freddie's Pub on the Square is always a lot of fun. Its selection of draft beers is among the best on the island. The oldest pub in St. George, White Horse Tavern, remains an enduring favorite. It's often jammed most evenings with a mixture of locals and visitors. We especially like the location of this one, as it stands at water's edge overlooking the harbor. Don't expect speedy service in any of these joints.

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The Performing Arts

You can order tickets for Bermuda's major cultural events through the Box Office at the Visitors Service Bureau in Hamilton ([tel] 441/292-8572) with your MasterCard, Visa, or American Express card.

Classical Music: The Bermuda Philharmonic Society, conducted by Graham Garton, presents four regular concerts during the season. Special outdoor "Classical Pops" concerts are presented on the first weekend in June in St. George and at the Royal Naval Dockyard. Concerts usually feature the Bermuda Philharmonic orchestra, the choir, and guest soloists. You can get tickets and concert schedules from the Harbourmaster, Washington Mall ([tel] 441/295-5333). Tickets generally cost $18 to $20; seniors and students are often granted discounts, depending on the performance.

Gombey Dancing: Ask at the tourist office or call the box office to see whether the gombey dancers will be performing during your stay. This is the island's single most important cultural expression of African heritage; once part of the slave culture, the tradition dates from the mid-1700s. The local dance troupe of talented men and women often performs at one of the big hotels (and on occasion aboard cruise ships for passengers) in winter. On all holidays, you'll see the gombeys dancing through the streets of Hamilton in their colorful costumes.

Ballet: The Bermuda Civic Ballet presents classical ballets at various venues. On occasion a major European or American guest artist appears with the troupe. The National Dance Theater of Bermuda also stages performances, both classical and modern, around the island. Ask at the tourist office or call the box office to check the troupes' schedules during your visit; prices vary with the performance.

Musical Theater: An all-volunteer organization based in Hamilton, the Gilbert & Sullivan Society of Bermuda, P.O. Box HM 3098, Hamilton HM NX ([tel] 441/295-3218), is known for producing at least one large-scale musical per year. These days, only about 20% of the repertoire is based on the works of Gilbert and Sullivan; it now includes such musicals as Evita and Sondheim's A Little Night Music, among others. The society performs at Hamilton's City Hall, on Church Street. Be warned that this is a volunteer organization; the sole production runs for 2 weeks at most, usually in October. Tickets cost $30.

Bermuda is the only place outside of Cambridge where Harvard University's Hasty Pudding Theatricals are staged. Performances have been presented in Bermuda during College Weeks (in Mar and Apr) since the 1960s. They're staged at the City Hall Theatre on Church Street in Hamilton; call the box office at the Visitors Service Bureau for tickets, which cost about $25 each.

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