The Best Of Natural Costa Rica

Rincón de la Vieja National Park (northeast of Liberia, in Guanacaste): This is an area of rugged beauty and high volcanic activity. The Rincón de la Vieja Volcano rises to 6,159 feet, but the thermal activity is spread out along its flanks, where numerous geysers, vents, and fumaroles let off its heat and steam. This is a great place to hire a guide and a horse for a day of rugged exploration. There are waterfalls and mud baths, hot springs and cool jungle swimming holes. You'll pass through pastureland, scrub savanna, and moist secondary forest; the bird watching is excellent.

Arenal Volcano/Tabacón Hot Springs (near La Fortuna, northwest of San José): When the skies are clear and the lava is flowing, Arenal Volcano provides a thrilling light show accompanied by an earthshaking rumble that defies description. You can even see the show while soaking in a natural hot spring and having a drink at the swim-up bar at Tabacón Hot Springs Resort ([tel] 506/256-1500; www.tabacon.com). If the rushing torrent of volcano-heated spring water isn't therapeutic enough, you can get a massage here at an incredibly inexpensive price.

The Río Sarapiquí Region (north of San José between Guanacaste in the west and the Caribbean coast in the east): This is a prime place for an ecolodge experience. Protected tropical forests climb from the Caribbean coastal lowlands up into the central mountain, affording you a glimpse of a plethora of life zones and ecosystems. Braulio Carrillo National Park borders several other private reserves here, and there's a variety of ecolodges to suit any budget.

Monteverde Biological Cloud Forest Preserve (in the mountains northwest of San José): There's something both eerie and majestic about walking around in the early morning mist with the sound of bird calls all around and the towering trees hung heavy in broad bromeliads, flowering orchids, and hanging moss and vines. The preserve itself has a well-maintained network of trails, and the community is truly involved in conservation. Not only that, but in and around Monteverde and Santa Elena you'll find a whole slew of related activities and attractions, including canopy tours that allow you to swing from treetop to treetop while hanging from a skinny cable.

Manuel Antonio (near Quepos on the central Pacific coast): There's a reason this place is so popular and renowned: monkeys! The national park here is full of them, even the endangered squirrel monkeys. But there's plenty to see and do outside the park as well. The road leading into Manuel Antonio provides numerous lookouts that consistently produce postcard-perfect snapshots of steep jungle hills meeting the sea. Uninhabited islands lie just off the coast, and the beaches here are perfect crescents of soft, white sand.

Osa Peninsula (in southern Costa Rica): This is Costa Rica's most remote and biologically rich region. Corcovado National Park, the largest remaining patch of virgin lowland tropical rain forest in Central America, takes up much of the Osa Peninsula. Jaguars, crocodiles, and scarlet macaws all call this place home. Whether you stay in a luxury nature lodge in Drake Bay or outside of Puerto Jiménez, or camp in the park itself, you will be surrounded by some of the lushest and most intense jungle this country has to offer.

Tortuguero Village & Jungle Canals (on the Caribbean coast, north of Limón): Tortuguero Village is a small collection of rustic wooden shacks on a narrow spit of land between the Caribbean Sea and a dense maze of jungle canals. It's been called Costa Rica's Venice, but it actually has more in common with the South American Amazon. You can fly into the small airstrip, but it's better to take one of the slow boats that ply the river and canal route. On the way you'll see a wide variety of herons and other water birds, three types of monkeys, three-toed sloths, and huge American crocodiles. If you come between June and October, you may be treated to the awe-inspiring spectacle of a green turtle nesting -- the small stretch of Tortuguero beach is the last remaining major nesting site of this endangered animal.

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The Best Beaches

With more than 750 combined miles of shoreline on its Pacific and Caribbean coasts, Costa Rica offers beachgoers an embarrassment of riches.

Playa Tamarindo: On the verge of becoming a little too overdeveloped, crowded, and chaotic, Tamarindo is still hanging onto its place on this list. Tamarindo has ample lodgings to suit every budget and excellent restaurants at almost every turn. The beach here is long and broad, with sections calm enough for swimmers and others just right for surfers. Located about midway along the beaches of Guanacaste province, Tamarindo makes a good base for exploring other nearby stretches of sand. There are plenty of surfers here, as well as one of the liveliest nightlife scenes on this coast.

The Beaches Around Playa Sámara: Playa Sámara itself is nice enough, but if you venture just slightly farther afield, you'll find some of the nicest and least developed beaches along the entire Guanacaste coast. Playa Carillo is a long, almost always deserted crescent of palm-backed white sand located just south of Sámara, while Playa Barrigona and Playa Buena Vista are two hidden gems, tucked down a couple of dirt roads to the north.

Playa Montezuma: This tiny beach town at the southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula has weathered fame and infamy and yet retains a funky sense of individuality. European backpackers, vegetarian yoga enthusiasts, and UFO seekers choose Montezuma's beach over any other in Costa Rica. The waterfalls are what set it apart from the competition, but the beach stretches for miles, with plenty of isolated spots to plop down your towel or mat. Nearby are the Cabo Blanco and Curu wildlife preserves.

Malpais: If you're looking to visit Costa Rica's newest hot spot before the throngs discover it, head out to Malpais. Here, you'll find miles of nearly deserted beaches, great surf, and just a smattering of lodges, surf camps, and simple cabinas. If Malpais is too crowded for you, head farther on down the road to Santa Teresa, Playa Hermosa, and Manzanillo.

Santa Rosa National Park: If you really want to get away from it all, the beaches here in the northwest corner of Costa Rica are a good bet. You'll have to four-wheel-drive or hike 8 miles (13km) from the central ranger station to reach the beach. And once you get there, you'll find only the most basic of camping facilities: outhouse latrines and cold-water showers. But you will probably have the place almost to yourself. In fact, the only time it gets crowded is in October, when thousands of olive Ridley sea turtles nest in one of their yearly arribadas (arrivals).

Manuel Antonio: The first beach destination to become popular in Costa Rica, it still retains its charms despite burgeoning crowds and mushrooming hotels. The beaches inside the park are idyllic, and the views from the hills approaching the park are enchanting. This is one of the few remaining habitats for the endangered squirrel monkey. Rooms with views tend to be a bit expensive, but many a satisfied guest will tell you they're worth it.

Punta Uva & Manzanillo: Below Puerto Viejo, the beaches of Costa Rica's Atlantic coast take on true Caribbean splendor, with turquoise waters, coral reefs, and palm-lined stretches of nearly deserted white-sand beach. Punta Uva and Manzanillo are the two most sparkling gems of this coastline. Tall coconut palms line the shore, providing shady respite for those who like to spend a full day on the sand, and the water is usually quite calm and good for swimming.

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The Best Adventures

Swinging Through the Treetops on a Canopy Tour: This unique adventure is becoming quite the rage. In most cases, after a strenuous climb using ascenders, you strap on a harness and zip from treetop to treetop while dangling from a cable. There are canopy tours all around Costa Rica. The Original Canopy Tours ([tel] and fax 506/257-5149; www.canopytour.com) runs dependable operations in several locations.

Mountain-Biking the Back Roads of Costa Rica: The lack of infrastructure and paved roads that most folks bemoan is a huge boon for mountain-bikers. There are endless back roads and cattle paths to explore. Tours of differing lengths and all difficulty levels are available. Contact BiCosta Rica ([tel] 506/446-7585; www.yellowweb.co.cr/bicostarica.html) or Coast to Coast Adventures ([tel] 506/280-6055; www.ctocadventures.com).

Diving off the Shores of Isla del Coco (off Guanacaste in the Pacific): Legendary among treasure seekers, pirate buffs, and scuba divers, this small island is consistently rated one of the 10 best dive sites in the world. A protected national park, Isla del Coco is surrounded by clear Pacific waters, and its reefs are teeming with life (divers regularly encounter large schools of hammerhead sharks, curious manta rays, and docile whale sharks). Since the island is so remote and has no overnight facilities for visitors, the most popular way to visit is on 10-day excursions on a live-aboard boat, where guests live, eat, and sleep onboard -- with nights spent anchored in the harbor.

Battling a Billfish off the Pacific Coast: Billfish are plentiful all along Costa Rica's Pacific coast, and boats operate from Playa del Coco to Playa Zancudo. Costa Rican anglers hold world records for both blue marlin and Pacific sailfish. Go to Quepos (just outside Manuel Antonio) for the best après-fish scene, or head down to Drake Bay if you want some isolation. Costa Rica Outdoors ([tel] 800/308-3394 in the U.S., or 506/282-6743; www.costaricaoutdoors.com) can help you find a good charter skipper or specialized fishing lodge.

Rafting the Upper Reventazón River (near Turrialba): The Class V "Guayabo" section of this popular river is serious white water. Only experienced and gutsy river runners need apply. If you're not quite up to that, try a 2-day Pacuare River trip, which passes through primary and secondary forests and a beautiful steep gorge that, sadly, may be dammed soon. Get there quick! Aventuras Naturales ([tel] 800/514-0411 in the U.S., or 506/225-3939 in Costa Rica; www.toenjoynature.com) or Ríos Tropicales ([tel] 506/233-6455; www.riostropicales.com) can arrange either of the above tours.

Surfing & Four-Wheeling Guanacaste Province: This northwestern province has dozens of respectable beach and reef breaks, from Witch's Rock at Playa Naranjo near the Nicaraguan border to Playa Nosara more than 62 miles (100km) away. In addition to these two prime spots, try a turn at Playa Grande, Punta Langosta, and Playas Negra, Avellanas, and Junquillal. Or, find your own secret spot. Rent a four-by-four with a roof rack, pile on the boards, and explore.

Windsurfing Lake Arenal: With steady gale-force winds and stunning scenery, the northern end of Lake Arenal (see above) has become a major international windsurfing hot spot. If you're an avid boardsailor, be sure to check in with Norm at Rock River Lodge ([tel] and fax 506/695-5644; www.rokriverlodge.com).

Hiking Mount Chirripó (near San Isidro de El General on the central Pacific coast): The highest mountain in Costa Rica, Mount Chirripó is one of the few places in the world where (on a clear day) you can see both the Atlantic and the Pacific oceans at the same time. Hiking to Chirripó's 12,412-foot summit will take you through a number of distinct bio-regions, ranging from lowland pastures and a cloud forest to a high-altitude páramo, a tundralike landscape with stunted trees and morning frosts.

Kayaking Around the Golfo Dulce: Slipping through the waters of the Golfo Dulce by kayak gets you intimately in touch with the raw beauty of this underdeveloped region. Spend several days poking around in mangrove swamps, fishing in estuaries, and watching dolphins frolic in the bay. Escondido Trex ([tel] 506/735-5210; www.escondidotrex.com) provides multiday custom kayaking trips out of Puerto Jiménez on the Osa Peninsula.

Surfing Pavones (on the south Pacific coast): Just 8 miles (13km) from the Panamanian border at the southern reaches of Costa Rica's Pacific coast, Pavones is reputed to have one of the longest rideable waves in the world. When this left-point break is working, surfers enjoy rides of almost a mile in length. Much more can be said about this experience, but if you're a surfer, you've heard it all before. Contact Casa Siempre Domingo ([tel] 506/775-0131; www.casa-domingo.com), the most comfortable hotel in town, for current wave reports and other local information.

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The Best Day Hikes & Nature Walks

Lankester Botanical Gardens: If you want a really pleasant but not overly challenging day hike, consider a walk among the hundreds of distinct species of flora on display here. Lankester Gardens ([tel] 506/552-3247 or 506/552-3151) is just 17 miles (27.4km) from San José and makes a wonderful day's expedition. The trails meander from areas of well-tended open garden to shady natural forest.

Rincón de la Vieja National Park: This park has a number of wonderful trails through a variety of ecosystems and natural wonders. My favorite hike is down to the Blue Lake and Cangrejo Falls. It's 3.2 miles (5.1km) each way, and you'll want to spend some time at the base of this amazing lake, so plan on spending at least 5 hours on the outing, and bring along lunch and plenty of water. You can also hike up to two craters and a crater lake here, and there's the Las Pailas loop for those seeking a less strenuous hike. This remote volcanic national park is located about an hour north of Liberia (it's only 15 1/2 miles/25km, but the road is quite rough), or about 5 hours from San José.

La Selva Biological Station: This combination research facility and rustic nature lodge has an extensive and well-marked network of trails. You'll have to reserve in advance ([tel] 506/766-6565) and take the guided tour if you aren't a guest at the lodge. But the hikes are led by very informed naturalists, so you might not mind the company. The Biological Station is located north-northeast on the Caribbean slope of Costa Rica's central mountain range. It'll take you about 1 1/2 hours to drive from San José via the Guápiles Highway.

Arenal National Park & Environs: There's great hiking all around this area. The national park itself has several excellent trails that visit a variety of different eco-systems, including rain forest, secondary forest, savanna, and old lava flows. Most of them are on the relatively flat flanks of the volcano, so there's not too much climbing involved. There's also great hiking on the trails at the Arenal Observatory Lodge, and the trail down to the base of the La Fortuna Waterfall is a fun scramble. It's about a 3 1/2-hour drive from San José to La Fortuna and Arenal National Park.

Monteverde Biological Cloud Forest Preserve: In morning rush of high season, when groups and tours line up to enter the preserve, you'd think the sign said crowd forest. Still, the guides here are some of the most professional and knowledgeable in the country. Take a tour in the morning to familiarize yourself with the forest, then spend the late morning or afternoon (your entrance ticket is good for the whole day) exploring the preserve. Once you get off the main thoroughfares, Monteverde reveals its rich mysteries with stunning regularity. Walk through the gray mist and look up at the dense tangle of epiphytes and vines. The only noises you'll hear are the rustlings of birds or monkeys and the occasional distant rumble of Arenal Volcano. The trails are well marked and regularly tended. It's about 3 1/2 hours by bus or car to Monteverde from San José.

Corcovado National Park: This large swath of dense lowland rain forest is home to Costa Rica's second-largest population of scarlet macaws. The park has a well-designed network of trails, ranger stations, and camping facilities. Most of the lodges in Drake Bay and Puerto Jiménez offer day hikes through the park, but if you really want to experience it, you should hike in and stay at one or more of the campgrounds. This is strenuous hiking, and you will have to pack in some gear and food, but the reward is some of Costa Rica's most spectacular and unspoiled scenery. Because strict limits are placed on the number of visitors allowed into the park, you'll always be far from the madding crowd.

Cahuita National Park: The trails here are flat, well-maintained paths through thick lowland forest. Most of the way they parallel the beach, which is usually no more than 90 meters (100 yd.) away, so you can hike out on the trail and back along the beach, or vice versa. White-faced and howler monkeys are quite common here, as are brightly colored land crabs.

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Biking

There are several significant regional and international touring races in Costa Rica each year, but as a general rule, the major roads are dangerous and inhospitable for cyclists. They're narrow, there's usually no shoulder, and most drivers show little care or consideration for those on two wheels. The options are much more appealing for mountain-bikers and off-track riders, however. Fat-tire explorations are relatively new to Costa Rica but growing fast. If you plan to do a lot of biking and are very attached to your rig, bring your own. However, several companies in San José and elsewhere rent bikes, and the quality of the equipment is improving all the time.

The area around Lake Arenal and Arenal Volcano is the best place for mountain-biking in Costa Rica. The scenery's great, with primary forests, waterfalls, and plenty of trails. And nearby Tabacón Hot Springs is a perfect place for those with aching muscles to unwind at the end of the day.

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Bungee Jumping & Ballooning

Both of these sports are new to Costa Rica, so as yet there's only one operator who specializes in each activity. The price you'll pay is generally cheaper than in the United States, and the scenery is certainly more lush.

Tropical Bungee ([tel] 506/232-3956; www.bungee.co.cr) will let you jump off a 265-foot bridge over the Río Colorado for $45; if you want to do it twice, the cost is $70. It is physically located on a small bridge over the Río Colorado about 23 miles northwest of San Jose, just off the Pan American Highway. There are obvious and well-placed signs on the highway. Someone will be there from 9am to 3pm every day. If you need transportation, Tropical Bungee will provide it for $7 per person each way.

Serendipity Adventures ([tel] 800/635-2325 in the U.S., or 506/556-2592; www.serendipityadventures.com) will take you up, up, and away in a hot-air balloon on a variety of single- or multiday tours, either in Turrialba, Naranjo, or near Arenal Volcano. A basic flight costs $900 for up to five people or 800 pounds.

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Canopy Tours

Canopy tours are taking off in Costa Rica, largely because they are such a unique way to experience tropical rain forests. It's estimated that some two-thirds of a typical rain forest's species live in the canopy (the uppermost, branching layer of the forest). From the relative luxury of Aerial Tram's high-tech funicular to the rope-and-climbing-gear rigs of more basic operations, a trip into the canopy will give you a bird's-eye view of a neotropical forest. There are now canopy-tour operations in Monteverde, Aguas Zarcas (near San Carlos), Tabacón, Punta Islita, Villablanca, Playa Hermosa, and Rincón de la Vieja, as well as on Tortuga Island, around the Osa Peninsula, and at the Iguana Park.

With the exception of the Aerial Tram, most canopy tours involve strapping yourself into a climbing harness and being winched up to a platform some 100 feet above the forest floor, or doing the work yourself. Many of these operations have a series of treetop platforms connected by taut cables. Once up on the first platform, you click your harness into a pulley and glide across the cable to the next (slightly lower) platform, using your hand (protected by a thick leather glove) as a brake. When you reach the last platform, you usually rappel back down to the ground (don't worry, they'll teach even the most nervous neophyte).

While this can be a lot of fun, do be careful, as canopy tours are quite the rage and to date, there is no regulation on the activity. Some of the tours are set up by fly-by-night operators. Be especially sure that you feel comfortable and confident with the safety standards, guides, and equipment before embarking. The most reputable operator is The Original Canopy Tours, but there are other safe, well-run operations around the country. My favorite canopy tours are the Original Canopy Tour's operation in Monteverde, where the ascent goes up the inside of a strangler fig, in the space where the host tree once lived, and its Kazam Cañon tour at Rincón de la Vieja, which zig-zags back and forth through a deep canyon. Before you sign on to any tour, ask whether you have to hoist yourself to the top under your own steam, then make your decision accordingly.

Aerial Tram ([tel] 506/257-5961; www.rainforesttram.com) is located 50 minutes from San José. For $49.50 (transportation extra), this modern tram takes you on a 90-minute trip through the rain-forest canopy in the comfort and safety of an enclosed cab. The entrance fee includes an additional guided hike and access to its trail system. The best thing here isn't necessarily the tram ride, but the fact that this makes a good spot for a full-day excursion relatively close to San José.

The Original Canopy Tours ([tel] and fax 506/257-5149, or 506/256-7626; www.canopytour.com) is the largest canopy-tour operator, with sites in Monteverde, Aguas Zarcas, Rincón de la Vieja, Tabacón, Iguana Park, and along the banks of the Pacuare River.

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Cruising

Cruising options in Costa Rica range from transient cruisers setting up a quick charter business to converted fishing boats taking a few guests out to see the sunset.

One popular cruise is a day trip from San José (the boats actually leave from Puntarenas) to Isla Tortuga in the Nicoya Gulf. Alternately, you can book a cruise to Tortuga from Playa Montezuma at the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula. It's much cheaper from here (around $40 per person), but the excursion doesn't include the gourmet lunch that's usually featured on cruises leaving from San José.

One interesting recent entry into the Costa Rican cruising scene is the Windstar Cruise line's ([tel] 800/258-7245; www.windstarcruises.com) 148-passenger, four-masted sail-assist cruise ship, Wind Song, which leaves out of Caldera on weeklong trips from January through March. A weeklong cruise runs between $2,500 and $5,500 per person.

Another option is to take a cruise on the Temptress. This small cruise ship plies the waters off Costa Rica's Pacific coast from Santa Rosa National Park in the north to Corcovado National Park in the south. The ship has no pool or casino, but it does usually anchor in remote, isolated, and very beautiful spots. Each day you can choose between a natural-history tour and a recreational and cultural tour. For information, contact Temptress Cruises ([tel] 800/255-3585 in the U.S., or 506/220-1679; www.temptresscruises.org). Weeklong cruises run between $1,995 and $2,995 per person.

If diesel fumes and engine noise bother you, the best places to charter a sailboat are in Playa del Coco, Playa Hermosa, and Playa Flamingo in Guanacaste province; Playa Herradura and Quepos, along the central Pacific coast; and Golfito, along the southern Pacific coast. You can get information about sailboat rides and charters at any one of the larger lodgings in these areas. If you're at Flamingo Beach, head to the marina, where you should be able to find a captain who will take you out. My favorite place to charter a sailboat is Golfito. From here, it's a pleasant, peaceful day's sail around the Golfo Dulce

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Diving & Snorkeling

Many islands, reefs, caves, and rocks lie off the coast of Costa Rica, providing excellent spots for underwater exploration. Visibility varies with season and location. Generally, heavy rainfall tends to swell the rivers and muddy the waters, even well offshore. Banana plantations and their runoff have destroyed most of the Caribbean reefs, although there's still good diving at Isla Uvita, just off the coast of Limón, and in Manzanillo, down near the Panamanian border. Most divers choose Pacific dive spots like Caño Island, Bat Island, and the Catalina Islands, where you're likely to spot manta rays, moray eels, white-tipped sharks, and plenty of smaller fish and coral species. But the ultimate in Costa Rican dive experiences is a week to 10 days spent on a chartered boat, diving off the coast of Coco Island.

Snorkeling is not incredibly common or rewarding in Costa Rica. The rain, runoff, and wave conditions that drive scuba divers well offshore tend to make coastal and shallow-water conditions less than optimum. If the weather is calm and the water is clear, you might just get lucky. Ask at your hotel or check the different beach listings to find snorkeling options and operators up and down Costa Rica's coasts. The best snorkeling experience to be had in Costa Rica is on the reefs off Manzanillo Beach in the southern Caribbean coast, particularly in the calm months of September and October.

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Scuba-Diving Outfitters & Operators

Aggressor Fleet Limited ([tel] 800/348-2628 or 504/385-2628 in the U.S., or 506/289-3333; www.aggressor.com) runs the 120-foot Okeanos Aggressor on regular trips out to Coco Island.

Diving Safaris de Costa Rica ([tel] 800/779-0055 in the U.S., or 506/672-0012; www.costaricadiving.net) is perhaps the largest, most professional, and best-established dive operation in the country. Based out of the Sol Playa Hermosa Hotel in Playa Hermosa, this outfitter is also a local pioneer in nitrox diving.

Mundo Aquatico ([tel] 506/224-9729; mundoac@racsa.co.cr) offers equipment rental, certification classes, and tours. Tours go to Catalina and Bat Islands, as well as to Isla del Caño.

Undersea Hunter ([tel] 800/203-2120 in the U.S., or 506/228-6613; www.underseahunter.com) offers the Undersea Hunter and its sister ship, the Sea Hunter, two pioneers of the live-aboard diving excursions to Coco Island.

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Fishing

Anglers in Costa Rican waters have landed more than 65 world-record catches, including blue marlin, Pacific sailfish, dolphin, wahoo, yellowfin tuna, guapote, and snook. Whether you want to head offshore looking for a big sail, wrestle a tarpon near a Caribbean river mouth, or choose a quiet spot on Arenal Lake to cast for guapote, you'll find it here. You can land a marlin anywhere along the Pacific coast.

Many of the Pacific port and beach towns -- Quepos, Puntarenas, Playa del Coco, Tamarindo, Flamingo, Golfito, Drake Bay, Zancudo -- support large charter fleets and have hotels that cater to anglers. Costs for fishing trips usually range between $400 and $1,500 per day (depending on the size of the boat) for boat, captain, tackle, drinks, and lunch, so the cost per person is dependent on the size of the group.

Costa Rica Outdoors ([tel] 800/308-3394 in the U.S., or 506/282-6743; www.costaricaoutdoors.com) is a well-established operation, run by longtime resident, fisherman, and outdoor writer Jerry Ruhlow, that specializes in booking fishing trips around the country.

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Golf

Costa Rica is not one of the world's great golfing destinations. Well, not yet, anyway. There are currently five regulation 18-hole courses open to the public and/or visitors, but several others are either under construction or in the planning stages, with a potential boom shaping up in Guanacaste. Very shortly, there should be new courses in operation near the port of Caldera at La Roca Resort, and several new courses in Guanacaste within the next couple of years.

The Meliá hotel chain offers two courses. The Meliá Cariari course ([tel] 800/336-3542 in the U.S. and Canada, or 506/239-0022; cariari@racsa.co.cr) is just outside of San José. Greens fees here are $40, but you have to be a member or a guest at either the Meliá or Herradura hotels. The Meliá chain also runs the Garra de León course at the Meliá Playa Conchal resort ([tel] 506/654-4123; mconchal@racsa.co.cr) up in Guanacaste. Greens fees here are $100, including cart. This course is currently open, with advance notice and depending on available tee times, to guests at other hotels in the region. Another option for golfers staying in the metropolitan area is the new 18-hole course Parque Valle del Sol ([tel] 506/282-9222) in the western suburb of Santa Ana. Greens fees here run $50 for 18 holes.

The newest major resort course to open is at the Los Sueños Marriott Beach & Golf Resort in Playa Herradura ([tel] 800/228-9290 in the U.S., or 506/630-9000). Greens fees, including cart, run around $100 for guests of the hotel, $150 for the general public.

Another course in operation is Royal Pacific ([tel] 506/654-4925), near Playa Grande, also in Guanacaste. Greens fees there are $50 ($25 for a cart).

Golfers wanting the most up-to-date information, or interested in a package deal that includes play on a variety of courses, should contact Costa Rica Golf Adventures ([tel] 877/258-2688 in the U.S., or 506/239-5176; www.golfcr.com).

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Horseback Riding

Costa Rica's rural roots are evident in the continued use of horses for real work and transportation throughout the country. Visitors will find that horses are easily available for riding, whether you want to take a sunset trot along the beach, ride through the cloud forest, or take a multiday trek through the northern zone.

While most travelers simply saddle up for a couple of hours, those looking for a more specifically equestrian-based visit should check in with the following folks. Coast to Coast Adventures ([tel] 506/280-8054; www.ctocadventures.com) specializes in 2-week trips spanning the country via horseback, raft, mountain-bike, and on foot, with no motor vehicles involved. Other trips are also available.

Nature Lodge Finca Los Caballos ([tel] and fax 506/642-0124; www.naturelodge.net) has the healthiest horses in the Montezuma area. Rancho Savegre Horseback Tours ([tel] 506/777-0528) offers 1-day and multiday horseback tours based out of its rustic ranch near Quepos. Serendipity Adventures ([tel] 800/635-2325 in the U.S., or 506/556-2592; www.serendipityadventures.com) offers many activities, including horseback treks and tours.

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Rock Climbing

Although this is a nascent sport in Costa Rica, the possibilities are promising. There are several challenging formations close to San José and along the Cerro de la Muerte, as well as great climbing opportunities on Mount Chirripó. For information on routes, sites, and equipment rentals, contact Gimnasio Climb X ([tel] 506/232-4017; www.climbx.com). This gym, in the Sabana Sur section of downtown San José, has a climbing wall and sometimes organizes outings to natural climbing spots. It has one of those complicated Costa Rican addresses, so call for directions.

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Surfing

When Endless Summer II, the sequel to the all-time surf classic, was filmed, the production crew brought its boards and cameras to Costa Rica. Point and beach breaks that work almost year-round are located all along Costa Rica's immense coastline. Playas Hermosa, Jacó, and Dominical, on the central Pacific coast, and Tamarindo and Playa Guiones, in Guanacaste, are becoming mini-surf meccas. Salsa Brava in Puerto Viejo has a habit of breaking boards, but the daredevils keep coming back for more. Crowds are starting to gather at the more popular breaks, but you can still stumble onto secret spots on the Osa and Nicoya Peninsulas and along the northern Guanacaste coast. Costa Rica's signature wave is still found at Playa Pavones, which is reputed to have one of the longest lefts in the world. The cognoscenti, however, also swear by places like Playa Grande, Playa Negra, Matapalo, Malpais, and Witch's Rock. An avid surfer's best bet is to rent a dependable four-wheel-drive vehicle with a rack and take a surfin' safari around the breaks of Guanacaste.

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White-Water Rafting, Kayaking & Canoeing

Whether you're a first-time rafter or a world-class kayaker, Costa Rica's got some white water suited to your abilities. Rivers rise and fall with the rainfall, but you can get wet and wild here even in the dry season. The best white-water-rafting ride is still the scenic Pacuare River, though unfortunately it may be dammed soon. If you're just experimenting with river rafting, stick to Class II and III rivers, like the Reventazón, Sarapiquí, Peñas Blancas, and Savegre. If you already know which end of the paddle goes in the water, there are plenty of Class IV and V sections to run.

Aventuras Naturales ([tel] 800/514-0411 in the U.S., or 506/225-3939; www.toenjoynature.com) is a major rafting operator running daily trips on the most popular rivers in Costa Rica. Its Pacuare Jungle Lodge is a great place to spend the night on one of its 2-day rafting trips.

Costa Rica White Water ([tel] 506/257-0766; www.costaricaexpeditions.com) was the first building block in the Costa Rica Expeditions empire. It remains one of the better-run rafting operations.

Canoe Costa Rica ([tel] and fax 732/350-3963 in the U.S., or 506/282-3579; www.canoecostarica.com) is the only outfit that specializes in canoe trips; it works primarily with custom-designed tours and itineraries.

If you're out on the Osa Peninsula, hook up with Escondido Trex ([tel] and fax 506/735-5210; www.escondidotrex.com).

Iguana Tours ([tel] and fax 506/777-1262; www.iguanatours.com) is based in Quepos/Manuel Antonio and specializes in rafting on the Savegre and Naranjo Rivers, as well as ocean and mangrove kayak trips.

Rancho Leona Kayak Tours ([tel] 506/761-1019; www.rancholeona.com) is a small hostel-like roadside hotel in Heredia that caters to both experienced and beginning kayakers looking to ply the Río Sarapiquí.

Ríos Tropicales ([tel] 506/233-6455; www.riostropicales.com) is one of the major operators in Costa Rica, operating on most of the runnable rivers. Lodgings include a very comfortable lodge on the banks of the Río Pacuare for the 2-day trips.

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Windsurfing

Windsurfing is still not very popular on the high seas here, where winds are fickle and rental options are limited, even at beach hotels. However, Lake Arenal is considered one of the top spots in the world for high-wind boardsailing. During the winter months, many of the regulars from Washington's Columbia River Gorge take up residence around the nearby town of Tilarán. Small boards, water starts, and fancy gibes are the norm. The best time for windsurfing on Lake Arenal is between December and March. The same winds that buffet Lake Arenal make their way down to Bolaños Bay, near Santa Cruz, Guanacaste, where you can also get some good windsurfing in. See chapters 5 and 6 for more information.

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Costa Rica's Top National Parks & Bioreserves

Costa Rica has 32 national parks, protecting more than 12% of the country. They range in size from the 530-acre Guayabo National Monument to the 474,240-acre La Amistad National Park. Many of these national parks are undeveloped tropical forests, with few services or facilities available for visitors. Others, however, offer easier access to their wealth of natural wonders.

After several years of fee hikes, scaled pricing, green passes, and heated controversy, national-park fees seem to have settled on a flat $6-per-person per-day fee for any foreigner. Costa Ricans and foreign residents continue to pay just $1. At parks where camping is allowed, there is an additional charge of $2 per person per day.

If you're looking for a camping adventure or an extended stay in one of the national parks, we recommend Santa Rosa, Rincón de la Vieja, Chirripó, Corcovado, or Cahuita. Any of the others are better suited for day trips, guided hikes, or in combination with your travels around the country.

For more information, call the national parks office at [tel] 506/257-0922. You can also stop by the National Parks Foundation office ([tel] 506/257-2239) in San José, which is located between Calle 23 and Avenida 15. Both offices are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm.

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San José/Central Valley Area

Guayabo National Monument: This is the country's only significant pre-Columbian archaeological site. It's believed that Guayabo supported a population of about 10,000 people some 3,000 years ago. The park is set in a forested area rich in flora and fauna. Location: 12 miles (19km) northeast of Turrialba, which is 33 miles (53km) east of San José.

Irazú Volcano National Park: Irazú Volcano is the highest (11,260 ft.) of Costa Rica's four active volcanoes and a popular day trip from San José. A paved road leads right up to the crater, and the lookout also allows you a view of both oceans on a clear day. The volcano last erupted in 1963 -- the same day President John F. Kennedy visited the country. There's an information center, picnic tables, rest rooms, and a parking area here. Location: 34 miles (55km) east of San José.

Poás Volcano National Park: Poás is the other active volcano close to San José. The main crater is more than 1 mile wide, and it is constantly active with fumaroles and hot geysers. The area around the volcano is lush, but much of the growth is stunted due to the gasses and acid rain. The park sometimes closes when the gasses get too feisty. There are nature trails, picnic tables, rest rooms, and an information center. Location: 23 miles (37km) northwest of San José.

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Guanacaste & The Nicoya Peninsula

Barra Honda National Park: Costa Rica's only underground national park, Barra Honda features a series of limestone caves that were once part of a coral reef, some 60 million years ago. Today the caves are home to millions of bats and impressive stalactite and stalagmite formations. Only Terciopelo Cave is open to the public. There are a camping area, rest rooms, and an information center here, as well as trails through the surrounding tropical dry forest. Location: 208 miles (335km) northwest of San José.

Palo Verde National Park: A must for bird watchers, Palo Verde National Park is one of Costa Rica's best-kept secrets. This part of the Tempisque River lowlands supports a population of more than 50,000 waterfowl and forest bird species. Various ecosystems here include mangroves, savanna brush lands, and evergreen forests. There are camping facilities, an information center, and some nice new accommodations at the Organization for Tropical Studies (OTS) research station here. Location: 125 miles (200km) northwest of San José. Be warned that the park entrance is 17 1/2 miles (28km) off the highway down a very rugged dirt road; it's another 5 1/2 miles (9km) to the OTS station and campsites. For more information, call the OTS ([tel] 506/240-6696; reservas@cro.ots.ac.cr).

Rincón De La Vieja National Park: This is a large tract of parkland that experiences high volcanic activity. There are numerous fumaroles and geysers, as well as hot springs, cold pools, and mud pots. There are also excellent hikes to the upper craters, as well as to several waterfalls. You should hire a guide for any hot-spring or mud-bath expeditions, because inexperienced visitors have been burned. Camping is permitted at two separate sites, each of which has an information center, picnic area, and rest rooms. Location: 165 miles (266km) northwest of San José.

Santa Rosa National Park: Occupying a large section of Costa Rica's northwestern Guanacaste province, Santa Rosa contains the country's largest area of tropical dry forest, as well as important turtle-nesting sites and the historically significant La Casona monument. There are also caves for exploring. The beaches here are pristine and have basic camping facilities, and the waves make them quite popular with surfers. An information center, picnic area, and rest rooms are located at the main campsite and entrance. Location: 160 miles (258km) northwest of San José. For more information, you can call the park office at [tel] 506/666-5051.

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The Northern Zone

Arenal National Park: This new park, created to protect the ecosystem that surrounds Arenal Volcano, has few services or attractions. Basically, the government has set up a tollbooth on the access road leading to an up-close view of the volcano's lava flows. Most travelers and tour operators choose to forgo the entrance fee and watch the volcano from spots along the dirt road leading to the Arenal Observatory Lodge, or from the road to Tabacón, where the view is just as good as it is inside. However, there are several excellent hiking trails inside the park that explore cooled-off lava flows and the neighboring rain forest. Location: 80 miles (129km) northwest of San José.

Braulio Carrillo National Park: This park, which occupies a large area of the nation's central mountain range, is the park you pass through on your way from San José to the Caribbean coast. A deep rain forest, Braulio Carrillo receives an average of 177 inches of rain per year. There are beautiful rivers, majestic waterfalls, and more than 6,500 species of plants and animals. The park has an information center, picnic tables, rest rooms, and hiking trails. Camping is allowed, but is not very common or recommended. Be careful here. Make sure you park your car in, and base your explorations from, the park's main entrance, not just anywhere along the highway. There have been several robberies and attacks against visitors reported at trails leading into the park from the highway. This park also seems to have the highest incidence of lost hikers. Location: 14 miles (22km) north of San José.

Caño Negro National Wildlife Refuge: A lowland swamp and drainage basin for several northern rivers, Caño Negro is excellent for bird watching. There are a few basic cabinas and lodges in this area, but the most popular way to visit is on a combined van and boat trip from the La Fortuna/Arenal area. Location: 12 1/2 miles (20km) south of Los Chiles, near the Nicaraguan border.

Monteverde Biological Cloud Forest Preserve: This private reserve might be the most famous patch of forest in Costa Rica. It covers some 26,000 acres of primary forest. Most of it is mid-elevation cloud forest, with a rich variety of flora and fauna. Epiphytes thrive in the cool, misty climate. The most famous resident here is the spectacular resplendent quetzal. There is a well-maintained trail system, as well as some of the best-trained and most experienced guides in the country. Nearby, you can visit both the Santa Elena and Sendero Tranquilo reserves. Location: 103 miles (167km) NW of San José.

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Central Pacific Coast

Chirripó National Park: Home to Costa Rica's tallest peak, 12,536-foot Mount Chirripó, Chirripó National Park is a hike, but on a clear day you can see both the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea from its summit. There are a number of interesting climbing trails here, and camping is allowed. Location: 94 miles (151km) southeast of San José.

Manuel Antonio National Park: Though relatively small, Manuel Antonio is the most popular national park and supports the largest number of hotels and resorts. This lowland rain forest is home to a healthy monkey population, including the endangered squirrel monkey. The park is best known for its splendid beaches. Location: 80 miles (129km) south of San José.

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The Caribbean Coast

Cahuita National Park: A combination land and marine park, Cahuita National Park protects one of the few remaining living coral reefs in the country. The topography here is lush lowland tropical rain forest. Monkeys and numerous bird species are common. Camping is permitted, and there are basic facilities at the Puerto Vargas entrance to the park. If you want to visit for only the day, however, enter from Cahuita village, because as of press time, the local community had taken over that entrance and was asking for only a voluntary donation. Location: On the Caribbean coast, 26 miles (42km) south of Limón.

Tortuguero National Park: Tortuguero National Park has been called the Venice of Costa Rica due to its maze of jungle canals that meander through a dense lowland rain forest. Small boats, launches, and canoes carry visitors through these waterways, where caimans, manatees, and numerous bird and mammal species are common. The extremely endangered great green macaw lives here. On the beaches, green sea turtles nest here every year between June and October. The park has a small but helpful information office and some well-marked trails. Location: 160 miles (258km) from San José.

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