For years, Costa Rica was the well-kept secret of a few biologists, backpackers, and beachcombers, but that's all changed. Today, the country is a major international vacation and adventure-travel destination, and tourism has become the nation's number-one source of income. Despite the boom in vacationers, Costa Rica remains a place rich in natural wonders and biodiversity, and far from the madding crowds. Here, you can still find unsullied beaches that stretch for miles, small lodgings that haven't attracted hordes of tourists, jungle rivers for rafting and kayaking, and spectacular cloud and rain forests with ample opportunities for bird watching and hiking. Perhaps the biggest sea change in recent years has been the opening of a handful of large luxury resorts (even the Four Seasons chain has begun to develop a new super-luxury resort in the northern province of Guanacaste).

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The Regions in Brief

Costa Rica rightfully should be called ``Costas Ricas,'' since it has two coasts, one on the Pacific Ocean and one on the Caribbean Sea. These two coasts are as different from each other as are the Atlantic and Pacific coasts of North America.

Costa Rica's Pacific coast, which can be divided into three distinct regions (Guanacaste and the Nicoya Peninsula; the central coast; and the southern coast), is characterized by a rugged, though mostly accessible, coastline, where mountains often meet the sea. There are some spectacular stretches of coastline, and most of the country's top beaches are here. This coast varies from the dry, sunny climate of the northwest to the hot, humid rain forests of the south.

The Caribbean coast can be divided into two roughly equal stretches, one of which is accessible only by boat or small plane. The remote northeast coastline is a vast flat plain laced with rivers and covered with rain forest. Farther south, along the stretch of coast accessible by car, there are uncrowded beaches and even a bit of coral reef.

Bordered by Nicaragua in the north and Panama in the southeast, Costa Rica (19,530 square miles) is only slightly larger than Vermont and New Hampshire combined. Much of the country is mountainous, with three major ranges running northwest to southeast. Among these mountains are several volcanic peaks, some of which are still active. Between the mountain ranges are fertile valleys, the largest and most populated of which is the Central Valley. With the exception of the dry Guanacaste region, much of Costa Rica's coastal area is hot and humid and covered with dense rain forests.

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San José & The Central Valley

The Central Valley is characterized by rolling green hills that rise to heights between 3,000 and 4,000 feet above sea level. The climate here is mild and springlike year-round. It's Costa Rica's primary agricultural region, with coffee farms making up the majority of landholdings. The rich volcanic soil of this region makes it ideal for farming. The country's earliest settlements were in this area, and today the Central Valley (which includes San José) is densely populated, with decent roads, and dotted with small towns. Surrounding the Central Valley are high mountains, among which are four volcanic peaks. Two of these, Poás and Irazú, are still active and have caused extensive damage during cycles of activity in the past 2 centuries. Many of the mountainous regions to the north and to the south of the capital of San José have been declared national parks (Tapantí, Juan Castro, and Braulio Carrillo) to protect their virgin rain forests against logging.

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Guanacaste & Nicoya Peninsula

The northwestern corner of the country near the Nicaraguan border is the site of many of Costa Rica's sunniest and most popular beaches. Because many Americans have chosen to build beach houses and retirement homes here, Guanacaste in particular is experiencing quite a bit of new development. Don't expect a glut of Cancún-style high-rise hotels, but condos, luxury resorts, and golf courses are springing up like mushrooms. That's not to say you'll be towel-to-towel with thousands of strangers. On the contrary; you can still find long stretches of deserted sands. But maybe not for long. When the new international airport in Liberia is up and running for real, it will be possible to get here from North America without so much as a stopover in San José.

With about 65 inches of rain a year, this region is by far the driest in the country and has been likened to west Texas. Guanacaste province sits at the border of Nicaragua and is named after the shady trees that still shelter the herds of cattle that roam the dusty savanna here. In addition to cattle ranches, Guanacaste boasts semiactive volcanoes, several lakes, and one of the last remnants of tropical dry forest left in Central America (dry forest once stretched all the way from Costa Rica up to the Mexican state of Chiapas).

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The Northern Zone

This region lies to the north of San José and includes rain forests, cloud forests, hot springs, the country's two most active volcanoes (Arenal and Rincón de la Vieja), Braulio Carrillo National Park, and numerous remote lodges. Because this is one of the few regions of Costa Rica without any beaches, it primarily attracts people interested in nature and active sports. Lake Arenal boasts some of the best windsurfing in the world, as well as several good mountain-biking trails along its shores. The Monteverde Cloud Forest, perhaps Costa Rica's most internationally recognized attraction, is another top draw in this region.

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The Central Pacific Coast

Because it's the most easily accessible coastline in Costa Rica, the central Pacific coast boasts the greatest number of beach resorts and hotels. Playa de Jacó is the most popular destination here, a beach within a few hours' drive of San José that attracts a large number of Canadian and German charter groups and plenty of Tico tourists on weekends. Manuel Antonio, the name of a popular coastal national park as well as the resort area that surrounds it, caters to people seeking a bit more tranquillity and beauty. At the same time, this region is also home to the highest peak in Costa Rica -- Mount Chirripó -- where frost is common.

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The Southern Zone

This hot, humid region is one of Costa Rica's most remote and undeveloped regions. It is characterized by dense rain forests and rugged coastlines. Much of the area is protected in Corcovado and La Amistad national parks. There is a wealth of wonderful nature lodges spread around the shores of the Golfo Dulce and along the Osa Peninsula. There's a lot of solitude to be found here, due in no small part to the fact that it's hard to get here and hard to get around. But if you like your ecotourism challenging, you'll find it to your liking.

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The Caribbean Coast

Most of the Caribbean coast is a wide, steamy lowland laced with rivers and blanketed with rain forests and banana plantations. The culture here is predominantly black, with many residents speaking English or Caribbean patois. The northern section of this coast is accessible only by boat or small plane and is the site of Tortuguero National Park, which is known for its nesting sea turtles and riverboat trips. The towns of Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, and Manzanillo, on the southern half of the Caribbean coast, are increasingly popular destinations. The coastline here boasts many beautiful beaches and, as yet, few large hotels. However, this area can be rainy, especially between December and April.

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Visitor Information

In the United States or Canada, you can get a basic packet of information on Costa Rica by contacting the Costa Rican Tourist Board (ICT, or Instituto Costarricense de Turismo) at [tel] 800/343-6332. Much of the same information is available at its website, www.tourism-costarica.com.

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Entry Requirements & Customs

Citizens of the United States, Canada, Great Britain, and most European nations may visit Costa Rica for a maximum of 90 days. No visa is necessary, but you must have a valid passport. (U.S. citizens can enter with just a valid photo ID and a copy of their birth certificate, but we still recommend bringing a passport.)

If you need a visa or have other questions about Costa Rica, you can contact any of the following Costa Rican embassies: in the United States, 2112 S St. NW, Washington, DC 20008 ([tel] 202/234-2945); in Canada, 135 York St., Suite 208, Ottawa, Ontario K1N 5T4 ([tel] 613/562-2855); in Great Britain, 14 Lancaster Gate, London, England W2 3LH ([tel] 71-706-8844).

In the United States, Costa Rica also maintains consulates in New York ([tel] 212/509-3066), Atlanta ([tel] 770/951-7025), New Orleans ([tel] 504/887-8131), Chicago ([tel] 312/263-2772), Denver ([tel] 303/696-8211), Houston ([tel] 713/266-0484), Los Angeles ([tel] 213/380-6031), San Francisco ([tel] 510/790-0785), and Miami ([tel] 305/871-7485).

Visitors entering Costa Rica are entitled to bring in 500 grams of tobacco, 3 liters of liquor, and US$400 in merchandise. Cameras, computers, and electronic equipment for personal use are also permitted. Customs officials in Costa Rica rarely check tourists' luggage.

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Cash & Currency

The unit of currency in Costa Rica is the colón. The colón is divided into 100 centimos. There are currently two types of coins in circulation. The older and larger nickel-alloy coins come in denominations of 10, 25, and 50 centimos and 1, 2, 5, 10, and 20 colones; however, because of their evaporating value, you will rarely see or have to handle centimos. In 1997, the government introduced new gold-hued 5-, 10-, 25-, 50-, and 100-colón coins. They are smaller and heavier than the older coins, and they will slowly phase out the other currency.

There are paper notes in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, and 10,000 colones. You might also encounter a special-issue 5-colón bill that is a popular gift and souvenir. It is valid currency, although it sells for much more than its face value. You may hear people refer to a rojo or tucan, which are slang terms for the 1,000- and 5,000-colón bills, respectively. One-hundred colón denominations are called tejas, so cinco tejas would be 500 colones. The 2,000 and 10,000 bills are relatively new, and I've yet to encounter a slang equivalent for them.

While ATMs are still mostly found at bank offices and major shopping centers in and around San José, they're beginning to pop up at major tourist destinations around the country. Think of your ATM card as a backup measure, since machines are not nearly as readily available or dependable in Costa Rica as you might expect, and you may encounter compatibility problems. So it's always a good idea to carry some cash with you.

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When To Go

Costa Rica's high season for tourism runs from late November to late April, which coincides almost perfectly with the chill of winter in the United States, Canada, and Great Britain. The high season is also the dry season. If you want some unadulterated time on a tropical beach and a little less rain during your rain-forest experience, this is the time to come. During this period (and especially around the Christmas holidays), the tourism industry operates at full tilt -- prices are higher, attractions are more crowded, and reservations need to be made in advance.

In recent years, local tourism operators have begun calling the tropical rainy season (May through mid-November) the "green season." The adjective is appropriate. At this time of year, even brown and barren Guanacaste province becomes lush and verdant. It's easy to find or at least negotiate reduced rates, there are far fewer fellow travelers, and the rain is often limited to a few hours each afternoon (although you can occasionally get socked in for a week at a time). One other drawback: Some of the country's rugged roads become downright impassable without four-wheel drive during the rainy season.

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Weather

Costa Rica is a tropical country and has distinct wet and dry seasons. However, some regions are rainy all year and others are very dry and sunny for most of the year. Temperatures vary primarily with elevation, not with season: On the coasts it's hot all year, while up in the mountains it can be cool at night any time of year. At the highest elevations (10,000-12,000 ft.), frost is common.

Generally speaking, the rainy season (or "green season") is from May to mid-November. Costa Ricans call this wet time of year their winter. The dry season, considered summer by Costa Ricans, is from mid-November through April. In Guanacaste, the dry northwestern province, the dry season lasts several weeks longer than in other places. Even in the rainy season, days often start sunny, with rain falling in the afternoon and evening. On the Caribbean coast, especially south of Limón, you can count on rain year-round, although this area gets less rain in September and October than the rest of the country.

In general, the best time of year to visit weatherwise is in December and January, when everything is still green from the rains, but the sky is clear.

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Safety

Though most of Costa Rica is safe, crime has become much more common in recent years. San José is known for its pickpockets, so never carry a wallet in your back pocket. A woman should keep a tight grip on her purse (keep it tucked under your arm). Thieves also target gold chains, cameras and video cameras, prominent jewelry, and nice sunglasses. Be sure not to leave valuables in your hotel room. Don't park a car on the street in Costa Rica, especially in San José; there are plenty of public parking lots around the city.

Rental cars generally stick out, and they are easily spotted by thieves, who know that such cars are likely to be full of expensive camera equipment, money, and other valuables. Don't ever leave anything of value in a car parked on the street, not even for a moment.

Public intercity buses are also frequent targets of stealthy thieves. Never check your bags into the hold of a bus if you can avoid it. If this can't be avoided, keep your eye on what leaves the hold. If you put your bags in an overhead rack, be sure you can see the bags at all times. Try not to fall asleep.

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