Island Nights In Nadi

The large hotels usually have something going on every night. This might be a special meal followed by a Fijian meke dance show. The large hotels also frequently have live entertainment in their bars during the cocktail hour. Check with any hotel activities desk to see what's happening.

Unlike the fast, hip-swinging, suggestive dancing of Tahiti and the Cook Islands, Fijians follow the custom of the Samoas and Tonga, with gentle movements taking second place to the harmony of their voices. Only in the spear-waving war dances do you see much action. Nevertheless, taking in a meke is a popular way to spend at least one evening in Nadi.

The most popular watering hole here is The Bounty Bar & Restaurant, on the Queen's Road in Martintar ([tel] 672 0840), which draws many expatriate residents to its sports TV and icy draft beer.

For live music, head to the main dining room and bar in the Fiji Mocambo Hotel ([tel] 672 2000), where one of Fiji's top rock band plays for dancing after 9pm Tuesday to Saturday. The cafe at The West's Motor Inn, on the Queen's Road in Martintar ([tel] 672 0044), becomes a pleasant, gay-friendly piano bar from Monday to Saturday.

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Island Nights In Suva

Fijian-style meke feast-and-dance nights are scarce in Suva. The Centra Suva, Victoria Parade ([tel] 330 1600), usually has one a week. Otherwise, nocturnal activities in Suva revolve around going to the movies and then hitting the bars -- until the wee hours on Friday, the biggest night out.

Movies are a big deal here, especially the first-run flicks playing at Village 6 Cinemas, on Scott Street at Nubukalou Creek, a modern, American-style emporium with six screens and a large games arcade upstairs. Check the daily newspapers for what's playing and show times. You can pig out on popcorn, candy, and soft drinks. Locals flock here on Sunday afternoon, when these plush, air-conditioned theaters offer a comfortable escape from Suva's daytime heat and humidity.

After a nighttime movie, locals head for their favorite bars. Blues and jazz fans gravitate to Birdland, a basement pub at 6 Carnavon St., east of Loftus Street ([tel] 330 3833), which has live music Thursday to Saturday nights. A few doors down Carnavon Street, the waiters and bouncers wear cowboy hats and other Western garb at The Barn, where you can line dance to tunes by country-and-western bands ([tel] 330 7845). Trap's Bar, 305 Victoria Parade, 2 blocks south of the Pizza Hut ([tel] 331 2922), is the most popular watering hole where you're not likely to witness a fight. A band usually plays in the back room on weekends.

O'Reilly's, on MacArthur Street just off Victoria Parade ([tel] 331 2968), is an Irish-style pub that serves Guinness stout and sports on TVs (as the bouncers on MacArthur Street will attest, it can get a bit rough, depending on who's winning the rugby matches).

Victoria Parade has a number of loud discotheques frequented by the young, noisy crowd. Just walk along; you'll hear them.

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