If there is one thing every visitor remembers about Fiji, it's the enormous friendliness of the Fijian people. You'll see why as soon as you get off the plane, clear Customs and Immigration, and are greeted by a procession of smiling faces, all of them exclaiming an enthusiastic "Bula!" That one word -- "health" in Fijian -- expresses the warmest and most heartfelt welcome you'll receive anywhere.

This diverse country's great variety will also be immediately evident, for the taxi drivers who whisk you to your hotel are not Fijians of Melanesian heritage, but Indians whose ancestors migrated to Fiji from places like Calcutta and Madras. Now about 44% of the population, these "Indo-Fijians" have played major roles in making their country the most prosperous of the independent South Pacific island nations. But their presence has also resulted in racial animosity and political coups, most recently in 2000.

The political tensions exist primarily in the towns. In the countryside -- and especially on Fiji's marvelous offshore islets -- you'll find gorgeous white-sand beaches bordered by curving coconut palms, azure lagoons and colorful reefs offering world-class scuba diving and snorkeling, green mountains sweeping to the sea, and a tropical climate in which to enjoy it all.

For visitors, Fiji is an affordable paradise for every pocketbook. Its wide variety of accommodations ranges from deluxe resorts nestled in tropical gardens beside the beach to down-to-basics hostels that cater to the young and the young-at-heart. It has the largest and finest collection of remote, Robinson Crusoe -- like offshore resorts in the entire South Pacific -- if not the world. Regardless of where you stay, you are in for a memorable time. The Fijians will see to that.

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Visitor Information

The Fiji Visitors Bureau, G.P.O. Box 92, Suva, Fiji Islands ([tel] 0800/672 1721 from within Fiji, or 330 2433; fax 330 0970; www.bulafiji.com), provides maps, brochures, and other materials from the bureau's head office in a restored colonial house at the corner of Thomson and Scott streets in the heart of Suva. It also has a small office in the international arrivals concourse at Nadi International Airport ([tel] 672 2433), which is open for all arriving flights.

The bureau's award-winning website is a trove of up-to-date information (weather and currency exchange rates, for example) and is linked to the home pages of the country's airlines, tour operators, attractions, and hotels. It also has a directory of e-mail addresses.

Other Fiji Visitors Bureau offices are: United States and Canada: 5777 West Century Blvd., Suite 220, Los Angeles, CA 90045 ([tel] 800/932-3454 or 310/568-1616; fax 310/670-2318; www.bula-fijiamericas.com)

If you have a TV in your room, you can tune in to the advertiser-supported Visitor Information Network (VIN), usually on channel 10, for tips about what to do and where to dine.

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Entry Requirements & Customs

Visitor permits good for stays of up to 4 months are issued upon arrival to citizens of the United States; all Commonwealth countries; most European, South American, and South Pacific island nations; and Mexico, Japan, Israel, Pakistan, South Korea, Thailand, Tunisia, and Turkey. You must have a passport valid for 3 months beyond your visit, onward or return airline tickets, and enough money or proof of finances to support you during your stay.

Customs allowances are 500 cigarettes; 2 liters of liquor, beer, or wine; and F$400 ($180) worth of other goods in addition to personal belongings. Pornography is prohibited. Firearms and nonprescription narcotic drugs are strictly prohibited and subject to heavy fines and jail terms. Pets will be quarantined. Any fresh fruits and vegetables must be declared and are subject to inspection and fumigation.

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Money

The national currency is the Fiji dollar, which is divided into 100 cents and trades independently on the foreign exchange markets.

Like islanders elsewhere in the South Pacific, Fijians might take offense if you try to haggle over a price. On the other hand, many Indo-Fijian merchants expect you to haggle.

An ANZ Bank branch in the international arrivals concourse at Nadi International Airport is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. It charges a F$2 (90 cents) fee for each transaction over F$100 ($45), F$1 (45 cents) if under that amount. Neither of ANZ's other branches nor any other bank charges such a fee. There's an ATM on the wall outside the branch, where you can draw Fijian currency by using MasterCard or Visa credit or debit cards.

ANZ Bank and Westpac Bank have offices throughout the country where currency and traveler's checks can be exchanged. Both have ATMs at their Nadi and Suva branches, but don't count on using an ATM on the outer islands. Banking hours nationwide are Monday to Thursday from 9:30am to 3pm and Friday from 9:30am to 4pm. You can also cash traveler's checks at Thomas Cook Travel Service offices in Nadi Town and Suva.

American Express, MasterCard, and Visa are widely accepted by the hotels, car-rental firms, travel and tour companies, duty-free shops, and some restaurants. Don't count on using a Diners Club card outside the hotels, and don't even bring your Discover card to Fiji.

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Weather

During most of the year, the prevailing southeast trade winds temper Fiji's warm, humid, tropical climate. Average high temperatures range from 83F during the austral winter (June-Sept) to 88F during the summer months (Dec-Mar). Evenings are in the warm and comfortable 70s throughout the year.

The islands receive the most rain during the austral summer, but the amount depends on which side of each island the measurement is taken on. The north and west coasts tend to be drier (and warmer), and the east and south coasts wetter (and somewhat cooler but more humid). Nadi, on the west side of Viti Levu, gets considerably less rain than does Suva, on the southeast side (some 200 in. a year). Consequently, most of Fiji's resorts are on the western side of Viti Levu. Even during the wetter months, however, periods of intense tropical sunshine usually follow the rain showers.

Fiji is in the heart of the South Pacific cyclone belt and receives its share of hurricanes between November and April. Fiji's Meteorological Service is excellent at tracking hurricanes and issuing timely warnings, and the local travel industry is very adept at preparing for them.

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Getting Around

Fiji has an extensive and reliable transportation network of airlines, rental cars, taxis, ferries, and both long-distance and local buses.

By plane and helicopter. The easiest way to get around the country is on Air Fiji ([tel] 888/234-5447 or 672 2521 in Nadi, 331 3666 in Suva) and Sun Air ([tel] 0800/772 5725 from anywhere in Fiji or 672 3016 in Nadi, 331 5755 in Suva). Both fly small planes from Nadi to the tourist destinations. Both have offices in the international concourse at Nadi International Airport and on Victoria Parade in Suva.

From Nadi, one-way fares on both Air Fiji and Sun Air are about F$51 ($23) to Malololailai Island (Plantation Island and Musket Cove resorts); F$64 ($29) to Mana Island; F$118 ($53) to Suva; F$178 ($80) to Savusavu; and F$220 ($99) to Taveuni.

Turtle Airways ([tel] 877/732-75263 in the U.S., or 672 2988; www.turtleairways.com) flies small seaplanes from Wailolaloa Beach on Nadi Bay to the Mamanuca and Yasawa resorts. Fares are about F$150 ($67.50) per person each way. Turtle has a special F$79 ($35.50) one-way fare for backpackers staying at hostels in the Yasawa Islands. You can charter its planes and fly anywhere in Fiji for about F$800 ($360) per flying hour.

Pacific Islands Seaplanes ([tel] 672 5643) provides service in its Canadian-built floatplanes, which use wheels to take off from Nadi airport and floats to land on water at the Mamanuca resorts. The one-way fare to the close-in resorts off Nadi is F$20 ($9) per person or F$110 ($49.50) per planeload. Island Hoppers ([tel] 672 0140; www.helicopters.com.fj) will whisk you out to the Mamanucas in one of its helicopters. If you have to ask how much these expensive rides cost, you can't afford them.

By rental car: Rental cars are widely available in Fiji. Each company has its own pricing policy, and you can frequently find discounts, special deals, and some give-and-take bargaining over long-term and long-distance use. All major companies, and a few not so major, have offices in the commercial concourse at Nadi International Airport, so it's easy to shop around. Most are open 7 days a week, some for 24 hours a day. Give careful consideration to how far you will drive; it's 197km (118 miles) from Nadi Airport to Suva, so an unlimited kilometer rate could work to your advantage if you plan to drive to Suva.

Avis ([tel] 800/331-1212, or 672 2233 in Nadi) has more than 50% of the business here, and for good reason: The Toyota dealer is the local agent, so it has the newest and best-maintained fleet. Rates start at F$125 ($56) per day with unlimited kilometers. Add F$20 ($9) a day for liability insurance. In addition to the office at Nadi Airport, Avis can be found in Suva ([tel] 331 3833), in Korolevu on the Coral Coast ([tel] 653 0176), and at several hotels.

Thrifty Car Rental ([tel] 800/367-2277, or 772 2935 in Nadi), which is handled in Fiji by Rosie the Travel Service, is next best, with rates and cars comparable to Avis's. Hertz ([tel] 800/654-3131 or 672 3466) has offices at Nadi airport, Korolevu on the Coral Coast, Pacific Harbour, and Suva. Budget Rent-A-Car ([tel] 800/527-0700 or 672 2735) also has an agency here, but I have never been particularly pleased with its vehicles or service.

The largest and most reliable local company is Khan's Rental Cars ([tel] 679 0617). Others include Roxy Rentals ([tel] 672 2763) and Central Rent-A-Car ([tel] 672 2711). Be sure to "kick the tires" -- in other words, check the cars thoroughly before renting from these companies.

By bus. Buses are plentiful and inexpensive in Fiji, and it's possible to go all the way around Viti Levu on them. Fiji Express ([tel] 672 3105) is the only air-conditioned "tourist class" express bus operating between Suva and Nadi Airport. It begins its daily run at the Centra Suva hotel at 7:30am. It stops at the major hotels along the Queen's Road before arriving at Nadi about noon. The return trip begins at 12:45pm, with arrival in Suva about 5:15pm. Fares run up to F$30 ($13.50), depending on how far you go. Book at any hotel tour desk or the Coral Sun Fiji office at Nadi Airport.

Sunset Express ([tel] 672 0266 in Nadi, or 332 2811 in Suva) has non-air-conditioned buses that run twice a day between Lautoka and Suva, with stops at Nadi Airport and Sigatoka. These buses usually leave Nadi Airport daily about 9:50am and 3:35pm, with arrival in Suva about 1:35 and 7:20pm. The return trips depart Suva at 8:45am and 4pm, getting back to Nadi Airport at 12:30 and 7:50pm. The Nadi-Suva fare is F$11 ($5). Sunset Express has an office on the second floor of the Nadi Airport arrivals concourse.

Pacific Transport Ltd. ([tel] 670 0044 in Nadi, or 330 4366 in Suva) has several express and local buses between Lautoka and Suva from Monday to Saturday via the Queen's Road. They all stop at the domestic terminal at Nadi Airport and the markets at Nadi Town, Sigatoka, and Navua. The Fiji Visitors Bureau usually has schedules at its offices. The express buses take about 4 hours between Nadi and Suva, compared to 5 hours on the local "stages." All these buses cater to local residents, do not take reservations, and have no air-conditioning. The Nadi-Suva fare is about F$10 ($4.50), express or local.

Sunbeam Transport Ltd. ([tel] 666 2822 in Lautoka, or 338 2122 in Suva), Reliance Transport Bus Service ([tel] 666 3059 in Lautoka, or 382296 in Suva), and Akbar Buses Ltd. ([tel] 669 4760 in Rakiraki) have express and local service between Lautoka and Suva via the King's Road. The Fiji Visitors Bureau may have their schedules. If not, ask around the local markets. The Lautoka-Suva fare is about F$10 ($4.50).

Fume-belching local buses use the produce markets as their terminals, but they'll stop anywhere if you signal the driver from the side of the road. The older buses have side windows made of canvas panels that are rolled down during inclement weather (they usually fly out the sides and flap in the wind like great skirts). More and more modern models are being used all the time.

Buses run every few minutes along the Queen's Road between Lautoka and Nadi Town, passing the airport and most of the hotels and restaurants along the way.

Minivans scoot along between the Nadi market and Rodwell Road, just around the corner from the Suva Municipal Market. These vehicles are not regulated by the government and should be considered unsafe.

By taxi. Taxis are as abundant in Fiji as taxi meters are scarce. Some of the Nadi Airport taxi drivers have allegedly taken advantage of naive tourists, so make sure to settle on a fare to your destination before setting out. Some drivers will complain about short fares and will badger you for more business later on during your stay; politely ignore these entreaties.

Not to be confused with unlicensed minibuses, "share taxis" or "rolling taxis" -- those not otherwise occupied -- pick up passengers at bus stops and charge the bus fare. They are particularly good value on long-distance trips. A taxi returning to Suva, for example, will stop by the Nadi Town market and pick up a load of passengers at the bus fare rather than drive back to the capital empty. Ask around the local market bus stops if share taxis are available. You'll meet some wonderful Fijians that way.

By ferry. As an alternative to flying, you can take one of the ferries that run between the main islands. The schedules can change abruptly depending on the weather and the condition of the ships, so call the operators for the latest information. Double all one-way fares for round-trips.

The newest and most comfortable ship is the Lagilagi, operated by Beachcomber Cruises ([tel] 666 1500 in Lautoka, or 330 7889 in Suva). This speedy catamaran usually operates on Tuesday and Saturday between Nadi and Savusavu, with stops at Beachcomber Island Resort, Lautoka, Nananu-I-Ra, and Ellington Wharf. It normally leaves Denarau Island at 6am and arrives at Savusavu at noon, having done most of the passage on calm waters inside the reef (there's about a 40-min. stretch of rough water between Viti Levu and Vanua Levu, so bring your Dramamine). The one-way fare is about F$90 ($40.50).

Beachcomber Cruises also runs the clean and well-maintained Adi Savusavu between Suva and Savusavu three times a week, with extensions to Taveuni twice a week. Both first- and economy-class cabins are air-conditioned and have airline-style seats. The ship takes about 11 hours to steam between Suva and Savusavu, often an overnight voyage. Fares from Suva to Savusavu are about F$62 ($28) for first class and F$42 ($19) for economy; you pay slightly more to Taveuni. You can book at the Suva booking office in Suite 8, Epworth House, Nina Street.

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Clothing

Modest dress is the order of the day, particularly in the villages. As a rule, don't leave the hotel swimming pool or the beach in bathing suits or other skimpy attire. If you want to run around half naked, go to Tahiti, where the French think it's all right. The Fijians do not. Do not enter a Fijian village wearing a hat or sunglasses, or with your shoulders uncovered.

Fijian men and women wear sulus, the wraparound skirts known as pareus in Tahiti and the Cook Islands and lavalavas in the Samoas. Fijian women wear chambas, or hip-length blouses, over their sulus. Many Indian women wear saris, lengths of cloth wrapped and pleated around the body.

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Safety

Fiji has experienced a serious increase in property crime in recent years ("Petty theft is a national pastime," says one local resident), and armed robberies have become more frequent. A tourist's chances of being robbed or assaulted in Fiji are lower than in the centers of most large American cities, but caution is advised. Stick to the main streets after dark, and take a taxi back to your hotel if you're out late at night. Some of the smaller hotels in Suva lock their front doors at 11pm, and the large resorts have checkpoints to monitor who comes and who goes. Do not leave valuables in your hotel room or unattended elsewhere, including in rental cars and tour buses.

Women should not wander alone on deserted beaches and should be extremely cautious about accepting an offer to have a few beers outside a bar or to be given a late-night lift back to their hotel or hostel.

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