Greece is a land of sea and mountains. Over a fifth of the Greek land mass is comprised of islands, numbering several thousand if you count every floating crag -- and nowhere in Greece will you find yourself more than 96 kilometers (60 miles) from the sea. It should come as no surprise that the sea molds the Greek imagination, as well as its history.

Mainland Greece, meanwhile, is a great vertebrate, with the Pindos range reaching from north to south, and continuing, like a tail, through the Peloponnese. The highest of its peaks is Mount Olympus, the seat of the gods, nearly 10,000 feet above sea level. Eighty percent of the Greek mainland is mountainous, which you will rapidly discover whether you make your way on foot or on wheels.

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The Regions In Brief

Athens

Whether you're arriving by sea or air, chances are you'll be debarking in Athens. The city is not always pleasant and is sometimes exhausting, yet it's simply invaluable. Its archaeological sites and its museums alone warrant a couple of days of exploration. Between visits to the sites, a stroll in the National Garden will prove reviving. Then, after dark as the city cools, the old city streets of the Plaka provide atmospheric strolling, shopping, and informal dining, while the square and lanes of Kolonaki provide an upscale version of the same. Piraeus, as in antiquity, serves as the port of Athens and the jumping-off point to most of the islands.

Athens is also a great base for day trips, whether to the temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion, the forested slopes of Mount Hymettus (Imittos), the monastery of Kaisariani (Kessariani), the sanctuary of Artemis at Brauron (Vravrona), the Byzantine monastery of Daphni, the legendary plains of Marathon, or the ruins of Eleusis, place of ancient mysteries.

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The Saronic Gulf Islands

Cupped between Attica and the Peloponnese, in the sheltering Saronic Gulf, these islands offer both proximity and retreat for the nearly four million Athenians who, like their visitors, long for calming waters and cooler breezes. The accessibility of these islands, on any given day or especially weekend in high season, can be their downfall. Choose carefully your day and island, or you may be part of the crowd you're trying to avoid.

Aegina, so near to Athens as to be a daily commute, is the most besieged and yet possesses its own character and charm. The main port town of Aegina is picturesque and pleasant, while across the island to the east, set atop a pine-crested hill, stands the remarkably preserved temple of Aphaia, a Doric gem. Poros, next in line proceeding south, is convenient both to Athens and to the Peloponnese. Its beaches and lively port are a real draw, and there's an ancient temple thrown in, scenically situated but mostly in a heap.

Still further to the south lies car-less Hydra, remarkable for its natural beauty and Italianate architecture. The port of Hydra has a lot to offer and knows it, all of which is reflected in the prices. It's a great place for pleasant strolls, views, and a swim. Spetses, the furthest of these islands from Athens, wins the getaway prize, with its exceptional beaches, comparatively lush interior, and lineup of noteworthy restaurants.

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The Peloponnese

Crossing the narrow isthmus -- less than 4 miles across at its narrowest point -- into the southern peninsula of Greece is a move you will never regret. Once an island, the Peloponnese retains a sense of remove from the north and from the rest of Greece. Its often barren landscape is virtually forested with stunning archaeological remains, each with a richly evocative past: Mycenae, the mountain citadel of Agamemnon; Olympia, birthplace of the Olympic Games; Sparta, home of Helen and Menelaus; the palace of Nestor at Pylos; the magnificent and active theater of Epidaurus; and the Bema at Corinth, where Paul addressed the Corinthians. The small but stately port of Nafplion provides a comfortable, convenient base from which to explore the surrounding sites.

At least two drives are worth going out of your way for. One is the spectacular coastal stretch from Areopoli to Kalamata; the other is the vertiginous climb and descent of the Taygetos mountains en route from Sparta to the monastic ghost city of Mistra and on to the western coastal town of Pylos. In fact, the entire three-fingered southern tip of the peninsula is unspoiled and splendid, with first-class destinations at Monemvassia, the Mani, the caves of Dirou, and the Venetian castles of Koroni and Methoni.

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Crete

The largest of the Greek islands, birthplace of the painter El Greco, possesses a landscape so diverse, concentrated, and enchanting that no description is likely to do it justice. Especially if you rent a car and do your own exploring, a week will pass like a day. More or less circling the island on the national highway (don't imagine an interstate) will take you to a ring of inviting ports like Rethymnon, Chania, Ayios Nikolaos, and Iraklion, the capital.

Venturing into the heartland of Crete -- not far, since Crete's width ranges from 12 to 56 kilometers (7.5 to 35 miles) -- you'll find the legendary palaces of the Minoans just as they once were, with a little imagination: Knossos, Phaestos, and Ayia Triadha, to mention only a few. This is not to say that Crete is without monasteries and Venetian ruins. It's Greece, after all. For the energetic, the Gorge of Samaria calls out, as does the sea.

When night falls, remember that Crete has been known for thousands of years for its wines, which complement nicely the fresh goat cheese and olives, all local and all part of Crete's spell.

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The Cyclades

The ``Cyclades'' -- the ``encirclers'' or ``circling islands'' -- have at their center the ancient spiritual, cultural, and commercial hub of the Aegean, the vibrant island of Delos. Declared a sanctuary, where both birth and death were prohibited, Delos was well on its way to becoming uninhabited in ancient times. At the moment it's a very interesting pile of ruins, well worth a detour. At the other extreme is Mykonos, whose reputation as a sacred place is yet to be built, unless worship of beaches, clubs, and the sun counts.

Paros is the transport hub of the Cyclades, the to-and-from-place with its own reputation for windsurfing. From here you can get to Tinos, a modern holy place, home to perhaps the most revered of all Orthodox churches; Naxos, whose unspoiled forests and mountains lure hikers and campers; Folegandros, whose principal port is a beautiful haven for anyone craving a brief respite; and the Cycladic piece de resistance, magical Santorini, to some the lost-and-found Atlantis, to others the here-and-now hot spot of the southern Aegean. Whether you prefer to scamper among ruins or bake on a beach, Santorini does not disappoint.

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The Dodecanese

This string of islands, named ``the 12'' despite the fact that they number more than that, nearly embrace the Turkish shoreline. Except for Rhodes and Kos, all of the Dodecanese are deforested, bare bones exposed to sun and sea. But what bones! Far to the north lies Patmos, already in the 5th century nicknamed ``the Jerusalem of the Aegean,'' a holy island where the Book of Revelation is said to have been penned and where the Monastery of St. John still dominates the island. Far to the south basks Rhodes, ``the city of the Sun,'' with more than 300 days of sunshine per year. It's the most touristed of the islands, and for obvious reasons. Rhodes has it all: history and hysteria, ruins and resorts, knights and nightlife. There's even peace and quiet -- we'll tell you where to find it.

In between these two lie an array of possibilities: from the uncompromised traditional charm of tiny Simi to the ruins and well-known beaches of Kos. The truth is that part of the popularity of the southern Dodecanese comes from its proximity to Rhodes -- a simple matter of overflow for those who can't fit on or afford the most popular package-tour destination in Greece. Just remember that while ``close'' counts in horseshoes and hand grenades, it often doesn't when planning a holiday. One other tip: With Turkey so near, you may want to consider a side trip, quite easy to arrange.

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Central Greece

Central Greece, for our purposes, stretches from the Corinth Canal to Mount Olympus. Its landscape is vastly diverse, from the fertile Boetian plains to the snowy peaks of Parnassus and Olympus. Enshrined here are the legendary battlegrounds of Thermopylae and Chaironeia.

Far from the chaos of battle, there is an ineffable stillness that has deep roots in Central Greece. The sanctuary of Delphi, especially at either sunset or sunrise, retains its mystery to this day. Then there are the otherworldly heights of Meteora, where anyone with vertigo, spiritual or otherwise, best not ascend. If you have a less austere retreat in mind, the lush, gentle slopes of Pelion, once roamed by centaurs, may suit. If, confronted with all of these choices, you can't decide what to do, it's best to start with Delphi, where authoritative advice has long been available.

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The Sporades

Whether by ferry or hydrofoil, the Sporades, strewn north and east of the island of Evvia (Euboea), are readily accessible from the mainland and offer verdant forest landscapes, golden-sand beaches, and crystalline waters. That's the good news. The bad news is that they are no secret. Skiathos is the most in demand with all that that implies. Skopelos, whose lovely port is one of the most striking in Greece, is more rugged and remote than Skiathos, with more trails and fewer nightclubs. Relatively far-off Skyros is well worth a visit, offering underwater fishing and diving, sandy beaches, and luminously clear waters. On top of that, it's almost a secret and, for the time being, a bargain.

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Western Greece

Northwestern Greece, or Epirus, is predominantly mountainous and mostly cut off by those mountains from the sea. You won't likely encounter many tourists here. Much of its appeal is to nature lovers and trekkers, for whom the Vikos Gorge and Perama Cave pose engaging challenges. Epirus is not, however, without its amenities and attractions.

Ioannina, on the shores of Lake Pamvotis, is the largest and most appealing city in the region; it is one of the few places in Greece where the long Muslim occupation is still manifestly visible. The traditional mountain village of Metsovo, perched several thousand feet up in the Pindos mountains, offers a number of local attractions and vista-ridden hiking.

Only 20 miles from Ioannina lie the ruins of one of the most famous of ancient shrines, the Oracle of Zeus at Dodona, where the voice of the great lord of Olympus was believed to speak through the rustling leaves of a sacred oak tree, though not the one currently planted there.

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The Ionian Islands

Across centuries, these islands have been the apple of more than one empire's eye. Lush, temperate, blessed with ample rain and sun, and tended like an architectural garden, they are quite splendid. Corfu, the most noted and ornamented, is a gem, and is priced accordingly. Ithaka is as yet somewhat out of the tourist loop, but needs no introduction for readers of the Odyssey. With certain adjustments for the nearly three millennia that have elapsed, Homer's descriptions of the island still hold their own. If you can do without name recognition, Kefalonia, still relatively inconspicuous and unspoiled, has a lot to offer: picturesque traditional villages, steep rocks plunging into the sea, fine beaches, and excellent local wine.

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Thessaloniki & Northern Greece

Just as it once was the urban understudy of Constantinople, Thessaloniki is modern Greece's second city. With less than 20% of Athens's population, however, it is not a close second. Even so, among Greece's major cities, it may be second to none in visual appeal and international flair. Among the city's many attractions are the legendary White Tower and its archaeological and Byzantine museums. As a home base, it offers comfortable proximity to many of Macedonia's major sites.

Macedonia is Greece's largest geographical region -- rich in natural beauty, soaked in history, and mostly removed from the epicenters of the tourist explosion that, in places, has almost leveled the diverse traditions and cultures of Greece. Besides Thessaloniki, Macedon is also home to three major archaeological sites associated with Alexander and his father -- Pella, Vergina, and Dion -- as well as to the independent religious state of Mount Athos. This mountaintop theocracy, off-limits to women since the year 1060, may be viewed from cruise ships (departing from Thessaloniki) or visited with special permission.

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The Northeastern Aegean Islands

The four major islands comprising this group form Europe's sea border with the east. Beyond their strategic and thus richly historic location, they offer a taste of Greece that is less compromised by tourism and more deeply influenced by nearby Asia Minor and modern Turkey. Samos, unique among the islands in the extent to which it is covered with trees, also produces from its vineyards some excellent local wine. Its important archaeological sites and opportunities for outdoor activities make it a congenial and interesting destination, and it is an ideal point from which to enter and explore the northwestern Turkish coast. Hios is unspoiled and welcoming, offering isolated and quite spectacular beaches, as well as the stunning monastery of Nea Moni, and some of Greece's most striking village architecture. The remaining islands of Lesvos and Limnos, for various reasons not major tourist destinations, each have their ways of inviting and rewarding those who explore them.

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Visitor Information

The Greek National Tourism Organization (GNTO, or EOT in Greece -- but increasingly referred to as the Hellenic Tourism Organization) has offices throughout the world that can provide you with information concerning all aspects of travel to and in Greece. C one of the following GNTO offices:

Olympic Tower, 645 Fifth Ave., 5th Floor, New York, NY 10022 ([tel] 212/421-5777; fax 212/826-6940); 168 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 600, Chicago, IL 60601 ([tel] 312/782-1084; fax 312/782-1091); 611 W. Sixth St., Suite 2198, Los Angeles, CA 90017 ([tel] 213/626-6696; fax 213/489-9744).

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When To Go

The Weather: Greece has a generally mild climate, though in the mountainous northern interior the winters are rather harsh and summers brief. Southern Greece enjoys a relatively mild winter, with temperatures averaging around 55F to 60F in Athens. Summers are generally hot and dry, with daytime temperatures rising to 85F to 95F, usually cooled by prevailing north winds (the meltemi), especially on the islands, which often cool appreciably in the evenings. And at some point in most summers, usually July, the temperature will rise to over 100F.

The best time to visit is late April to mid-June, when the wildflowers are blooming and before summer arrives in force with hordes of tourists, higher prices, overbooked facilities, and strained services. Orthodox Easter -- close to but usually not exactly concurrent with Western Easter -- is a particularly delightful time to visit, though reservations are necessary and service is not the best, as so many Greeks living abroad return for the holiday. After Easter, most of the island resorts crank up for the season.

If you possibly can, avoid traveling in July and August (and especially on or around August 15) -- the crowds from Europe overwhelm facilities. In overcrowded southern Greece and the islands, midday temperatures are too high for much but beach and water activities. We strongly recommend you not go unless you have firm reservations and enjoy close encounters with masses of fellow tourists and footloose students. The higher elevations remain cooler and less crowded, a plus for hikers, bikers, and those who don't demand sophisticated pleasures.

By mid-September, temperatures begin to fall and crowds thin, but it can still be hot. The weather remains generally calm and balmy well into October. If you can't get to Greece in the spring, and beaches are not your primary goal, this is a fine time to visit.

By late October, ferry service is reduced and most facilities on the islands begin to close for the winter, but the cooler fall atmosphere makes Athens and the mainland all the more pleasant. If you have the time, visit the islands first, then return for a tour of the mainland archaeological sites.

Winter (say, November through March) is no time for fun in the sun, unless you want to join the Greeks for skiing and winter sports in the mountains -- but some hotels and many good tavernas are open still, prices are at their lowest, and the southern mainland and Crete remain inviting, especially for those interested in archaeology and authentic local culture.

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Entry Requirements

Citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, South Africa, the United States, and almost all other countries are required to have a valid passport, which is stamped upon entry and exit, for stays up to 90 days.

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Money

The unit of currency in Greece is the drachma (drachmi in Greek), abbreviated ``Dr.'' Coins come in denominations of Dr5, Dr10, Dr20, Dr50, and Dr100 (with old Dr1 and Dr2 coins still occasionally surfacing). Bills come in denominations of Dr200 (orange), Dr500 (green), Dr1,000 (brown), Dr5,000 (gray-green), and Dr10,000 (pinkish). The old blue Dr50 and Dr100 bills still come up occasionally, and be especially careful not to confuse the Dr500 and Dr5,000 bills!

Automated teller machines are now almost as abundant in Greece as they are in all economically advanced countries. But while singing the praises of Greek ATMs, we must emphasize: It is always possible that the one or two machines in your immediate locale may not be able to provide cash (due to incompatibility with your card, a mechanical malfunction, a labor strike, lack of cash due to a long holiday), so you are strongly advised to always have some ``fallback'' source of cash (traveler's checks or your national currency).

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