Jamaica In Brief

Montego Bay: The second-largest city in Jamaica, Montego Bay serves as the major tourist center and has a busy international airport. Here's where you'll find the greatest concentration of resorts and some of the island's finest beaches and golf courses. Tourists come to "Mo Bay" for its duty-free shopping, good restaurants, late-night discos, museums, historic buildings, and tours of nearby rum distilleries.

Negril: Situated near Jamaica's relatively arid western tip, Negril enjoys a reputation as the nudist center of the West Indies, with a kind of gently provocative do-as-you-please attitude. Its Seven Mile Beach is one of the longest uninterrupted stretches of sand in the Caribbean. Because of a boom in hotel construction, the Negril region is no longer the hippie hideaway it was during the 1960s and early 1970s. The area has become big business and mainstream, competing aggressively for tourist dollars once headed almost exclusively to Montego Bay and Ocho Rios.

The South Coast: The little-visited South Coast, lying east of Negril along the A2 (the road to Kingston), is undiscovered Jamaica -- although it's becoming better known all the time. Contrary to the island's lush, tropical image, this area is dry and arid. Hotels are few and far between, and they are frequently of the mom-and-pop persuasion. The chief draw here is Treasure Beach, tucked away on the secluded coast. Savvy locals -- many descended from Scottish seamen shipwrecked off the coast -- consider their beachfront a secret on the verge of being discovered by the general public. Regrettably, undertow makes swimming a bit tricky, but the beach is secluded and tranquil, and dramatic waves crash into the gray sands.

Mandeville: Located in south-central Jamaica, Mandeville is the country's highest-altitude town and is built in a style strongly influenced by the English. A gateway for tours of the Blue Mountains, Mandeville was the first community in Jamaica to receive tourists on a large scale (Victorian English visitors looking for a cool mountain retreat). It is now the center of the island's noted coffee cultivation. A sense of slow-paced colonial charm remains a trademark of the town.

The North Coast: The region's primary natural attractions include the steeply sloping terrain, which has challenged the architectural skill of Jamaica's most sophisticated hotel developers and provided the setting for panoramic public gardens and dramatic waterfalls.

Set on a deep-water harbor easily able to accommodate cruise ships, Ocho Rios boasts a dense concentration of resort hotels and other vacation spots. A relative newcomer to the tourist trade, the community lures visitors with its natural beauty and the aura of history left behind by Spanish colonists. Directly west of Ocho Rios is the satellite town of Runaway Bay, which boasts a handful of resorts opening onto some good beaches and has the distinct advantage of not being overrun, as many parts of Ocho Rios are.

The hub of verdant eastern Jamaica, Port Antonio has retained a sense of glamour ever since financier J. P. Morgan and actors Bette Davis, Ginger Rogers, and Errol Flynn took their vacations -- and their paramours -- here many years ago. Frequently photographed for its Victorian/Caribbean architecture (with slightly rotted gingerbread), the town is refreshing and not as touristy as Negril, Ocho Rios, and Montego Bay.

Kingston & Spanish Town: Located on the southeast coast, Kingston is Jamaica's capital, largest city, and principal port. It's a cosmopolitan city with approximately 650,000 residents in its metropolitan area and serves as the country's main economic, cultural, and government center. Residents proudly say it is the world's reggae capital as well. The city's northern district, called New Kingston, includes most of the capital's high-rises, showcase modern buildings, chic hotels, and upscale private homes. There are, however, extensive poverty-stricken areas in Kingston, and it's not the safest place to be -- it's not really a tourist destination.

Nearby are the remains of Port Royal, once an infamous lair of pirates and renegades, most of whom were unofficially pressed into service to the English Crown. Port Royal was superseded by Kingston after being destroyed by earthquakes in 1692 and again in 1907. Twenty minutes west of Kingston by car is Spanish Town, the country's capital from 1534 to 1872. It was the second town built by Spanish colonists in Jamaica after Nueva Sevilla (now abandoned). The slow-paced village today contains the Cathedral of St. James (early 16th century) -- one of the oldest Spanish churches in the West Indies -- and memorials to English colonization.

The Blue Mountains: A land of soaring peaks and deep valleys with luxuriant vegetation, the Blue Mountain range rises to the north of Kingston. Mountain roads wind and dip, and they are in bad repair, so don't try to visit on your own. Road signs do not exist in most places, and it's easy to get lost. However, travel agents in Kingston can hook you up with tours through this area, with its coffee plantations and rum factories. Maintained by the government, the prime part of the mountain range is the 192-acre Blue Mountain -- John Crow Mountain National Park. The most popular climb begins at Whitfield Hall (8), a high-altitude hostel and coffee estate 6 miles from the hamlet of Mavis Bank. The summit of Blue Mountain Peak towers 3,000 feet above sea level.

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Visitor Information

Before you go, you can get information from the Jamaica Tourist Board at the following U.S. addresses: 500 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1030, Chicago, IL 60611 ([tel] 312/527-1296); 1320 S. Dixie Hwy., Suite 1101, Coral Gables, FL 33146 ([tel] 305/665-0557); 3440 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 805, Los Angeles, CA 90010 ([tel] 213/384-1123); 801 Second Ave., New York, NY 10017 ([tel] 212/856-9727). In Atlanta, information can be obtained only by phone at [tel] 770/452-7799.

Once on the island, you'll find tourist offices at 2 St. Lucia Ave., Kingston ([tel] 876/929-9200); Cornwall Beach, St. James, Montego Bay ([tel] 876/952-4425); Shop no. 29, Coral Seas Plaza, Negril ([tel] 876/957-4243); in the Ocean Village Shopping Centre, Ocho Rios ([tel] 876/974-2582); in City Centre Plaza, Port Antonio ([tel] 876/993-3051); and in Hendriks Building, 2 High St., Black River ([tel] 876/965-2074).

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Entry Requirements & Customs

U.S. and Canada residents do not need passports but must have proof of citizenship (or permanent residency) and a return or ongoing ticket. A passport is the best bet, but an original birth certificate (or a certified copy) plus photo ID will usually suffice. Do check on the latest entry requirements before you travel, as the rules can change. Our advice is to always bring a passport when you're going to another country.

Immigration cards are given to visitors at the airport arrivals desks. Hold onto it because you will need to surrender the document to Jamaican Customs when you leave the country.

Most small island nations in the Caribbean let you go through Customs without a thorough check (but don't count on that!). Jamaica is an exception to the rule. The Jamaican government is concerned about drug-running and smuggling more than most other island nations. Therefore, your luggage might get a more thorough check in Jamaica than it would elsewhere.

If you're not carrying illegal substances or firearms, you'll generally pass the test; in general, you are allowed items intended for your personal use while on the island (but not for resale).

You can bring in 2 liters of alcohol, plus two cartons of cigarettes. You're allowed to bring in some duty-free goods, but there is confusion here. You're not supposed to bring in an "inordinate" amount of such goods. Your local Customs official has great leverage in interpreting what is meant by "inordinate." So, limit your import of duty-free goods to what you'll actually need to avoid paying a big import tax.

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Money

The unit of currency in Jamaica is the Jamaican dollar, with the same symbol as the U.S. dollar, "$." There is no fixed rate of exchange for the Jamaican dollar. It is traded publicly and is subject to market fluctuations.

Visitors to Jamaica can pay for any goods in U.S. dollars, but be careful! Unless clearly stated, always insist on knowing whether a price is quoted in Jamaican or U.S. dollars.

In this guide, we quote some prices in both Jamaican and U.S. dollars, though for the most part U.S. dollars are listed alone because the Jamaican dollar tends to fluctuate.

ATMs are linked to an international network that most likely includes your bank at home. Cirrus ([tel] 800/424-7787) and Plus ([tel] 800/843-7587) are the two most popular networks; check the back of your ATM card to see which network your bank belongs to. Use the toll-free numbers to locate ATMs in your destination.

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When To Go

With its fabled weather balmy all year, Jamaica is more and more a year-round destination. Nevertheless, it has a distinct high season running roughly from mid-December to mid-April. Hotels charge their highest prices during this peak winter period, when visitors fleeing from cold north winds crowd onto the island. And let's face it: When it's snowy and 10 degrees in Chicago, sometimes it's worth any price to save your sanity and go bask on a warm, sunny beach.

The off-season in Jamaica (roughly from mid-April to mid-December, with variance from hotel to hotel) amounts to a summer sale. In most cases, hotel rates are slashed a startling 20% to 60%. Some package-tour charges are as much as 20% lower, and individual excursion airfares are reduced from 5% to 10%. In addition, airline seats and hotel rooms are much easier to come by. It's a bonanza for cost-conscious travelers, especially families who like to vacation together.

There are other advantages to off-season travel. Resort boutiques often feature summer sales, hoping to clear merchandise not sold in February to accommodate stock for the coming winter. After the winter hordes have left, a less-hurried way of life prevails on the island. You'll have a better chance to appreciate the food, culture, and local customs. Swimming pools and beaches are less crowded, sometimes not crowded at all. There's no waiting for a rental car (only to be told none are available), no long tee-up for golf, no queuing for tennis courts and water sports. You can often walk in unannounced and find a seat for dinner at a top restaurant that in winter would have required reservations far in advance. Also, when waiters are less hurried, they give better service.

But let's not paint too rosy a picture: There are disadvantages of off-season travel to consider. Sometimes services are curtailed -- restaurants might be closed because of lack of business. Entertainment, including bands and folkloric shows, will be greatly curtailed or may not exist at all until the winter season. Also, when business slows down in summer, many hotels use this time to renovate or even to launch new construction for the coming season. You're also taking a chance that the sun will be broiling -- and the hurricane season in the Caribbean officially lasts from June 1 to November 30.

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Weather

Jamaica has one of the most varied climates of any Caribbean island. Along the seashore, where most visitors congregate, the island is air-conditioned by the northeast trade winds, and temperature variations are surprisingly slight. Coastal readings average between 71 and 88F all year. The Jamaican winter is usually like May in the United States or northern Europe, however, and there can be really chilly times, especially in the early morning and at night. Winter is generally the driest season but can be wet in mountain areas; you can expect showers, especially in northeast Jamaica.

Inland, Jamaica's average temperatures decrease by approximately 1F for every 300 feet increase in elevation. Temperatures atop the highest of the Blue Mountains might descend to a chilly 50F, although most visitors find that a light jacket, sweater, or evening wrap is adequate for even the coldest weather on the island. In some cases, a wrap is a good idea even on the beach because of nighttime breezes or strong drafts from a dining room's air conditioner.

Average yearly precipitation in Jamaica is more than 80 inches. Rainfall is heaviest along the eastern edge of the island's north coast, with Port Antonio receiving some of the most intense downpours. The island has two rainy seasons, May and October to November, although with the recent trend toward global warming, there have been fewer strict seasonal variations.

The Hurricane Season: The curse of Jamaican weather, the hurricane season, officially lasts from June 1 to November 30 -- but there's no need for panic. Satellite weather forecasts generally give adequate warning so that precautions can be taken.

If you're heading for Jamaica during the hurricane season, you can call your nearest branch of the National Weather Service, listed in the phone directory under U.S. Department of Commerce, for a weather forecast.

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Tying The Knot In Jamaica

In high season, some Jamaican resorts witness several weddings a day. Many of the larger resorts can arrange for an officiant, a photographer, and even the wedding cake and champagne. Some resorts will even throw in your wedding with the cost of your honeymoon at the hotel. Both the Jamaican Tourist Board and your hotel will assist you with the paperwork. Participants must reside on Jamaica for 24 hours before the ceremony. Bring birth certificates and affidavits saying you've never been married before. If you've been divorced or widowed, bring copies of your divorce papers or a copy of the deceased spouse's death certificate. The license and stamp duty costs $200. The cost of the ceremony can range from $50 to $200, depending on how much legwork you want to do yourself. You may apply in person at the Ministry of National Security and Justice, 12 Ocean Blvd., Kingston, Jamaica ([tel] 876/906-4909).

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