The Best Kauai Experiences

Snorkeling Kee Beach. Rent a mask, fins, and snorkel and enter a magical underwater world. Face down, you'll float like a leaf on a pond, watching brilliant fish dart here and there in water clear as day; a slow-moving turtle may even stop by to check you out. Face up, you'll contemplate green-velvet cathedral-like cliffs under a blue sky, with long-tailed tropical birds riding the trade winds.

Hiking Waimea Canyon, The Grand Canyon Of The Pacific. Ansel Adams would have loved this ageless desert canyon, carved by an ancient river. Sunlight plays against its rustic red cliffs, burnt-orange pinnacles, and blue-green valleys. There's nothing else like it in the islands.

Wandering Around A High Mountain Forest. Kokee State Park, through Waimea Canyon at the end of Highway 550, is a combination rain forest and bog up around 4,000 feet. The park's 45 miles of trails offer everything from casual nature strolls to hardy camping and hiking adventures among the redwoods.

Strolling Through Hawaiian History. Old Waimea town looks so unassuming that you'd never guess it stood witness to a great many key events in Hawaii's history. This is the place where Capt. James Cook ``discovered'' the Hawaiian islands, where Russians once built a fort, and where New England missionaries arrived in 1820 to save the heathens. A self-guided walking-tour guide is available at Waimea Public Library, Kaumualii Highway ([tel] 808/338-6848).

Watching For Whales. Mahaulepu Beach, in the Poipu area, offers excellent land-based viewing conditions to spot whales that cruise by from December through April.

Journeying Into Eden. For a glimpse of the spectacularly remote Na Pali Coast, all you need to do is hike the first 2 miles along the well-maintained Kalalau Trail into the first tropical valley, Hanakapiai. Hardier hikers can venture another 2 miles to the Hanakapiai waterfalls and pools. Beware: Na Pali's natural beauty is so enticing that you may want to keep going -- but the trail turns rugged and extremely challenging after the 2-mile mark.

Catching A Poipu Wave. Vividly turquoise, curling and totally tubular, big enough to hang ten yet small enough to bodysurf, the waves at Poipu are endless in their attraction. Grab a Boogie Board -- rentable for just dollars a day -- or simply jump in and go with the flow.

Bidding The Sun Aloha. Polihale State Park hugs Kauai's western shore for some 17 miles. It's a great place to bring a picnic dinner, stretch out on the sand, and toast the sun as it sinks into the Pacific, illuminating the island of Niihau in the distance. Queen's Pond has facilities for camping as well as restrooms, showers, picnic tables, and pavilions.

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The Best Beaches

Kalapaki Beach. Any town would pay a fortune to have a beach like Kalapaki, one of Kauai's best, in its backyard. But little Lihue turns its back on Kalapaki; there's not even a sign pointing the way through the trafficky labyrinth to this graceful half moon of golden sand at the foot of the Marriott Resort & Beach Club. Fifty yards wide and a quarter-mile long, Kalapaki is protected by a jetty and patrolled by lifeguards, making it very safe for swimmers. The waves are good for surfing when there's a winter swell, and the view from the sand -- of the steepled, 2,200-foot peaks of the majestic Haupu Ridge that shield Nawiliwili Bay -- is awesome. Kalapaki is the best beach not only in Lihue, but also on the whole east coast.

Mahaulepu Beach. Mahaulepu is the best-looking unspoiled beach on Kauai, and possibly in the whole state. Its 2 miles of reddish-gold, grainy sand line the southeastern shore at the foot of 1,500-foot-high Haupu Ridge, just beyond the Hyatt Regency Poipu and McBryde sugarcane fields, which end in sand dunes and a forest of casuarina trees. Almost untouched by modern life, Mahaulepu is a great escape from the real world. It's ideal for beachcombing and shell hunting, but swimming can be risky, except in the reef-sheltered shallows 200 yards west of the sandy parking lot. There's no lifeguard, no facilities -- just great natural beauty everywhere you look. While you're here, see if you can find the Hawaiian petroglyph of a voyaging canoe carved in the beach rock.

Poipu Beach Park. Big, wide Poipu is actually two beaches in one; it's divided by a sandbar, called a tombolo. On the left, a lava-rock jetty protects a sandy-bottom pool that's perfect for children; on the right, the open bay attracts swimmers, snorkelers, and surfers. And everyone likes to picnic on the grassy lawn graced by coconut trees. You'll find excellent swimming, small tide pools for exploring, great reefs for snorkeling and diving, good fishing, nice waves for surfers, and a steady wind for windsurfers. Poipu attracts a daily crowd, but the density seldom approaches Waikiki levels, except on holidays. Facilities include restrooms, showers, picnic areas, Brennecke's Beach Broiler nearby, and free parking in the red-dirt lot. To get here, turn on Poipu Beach Road, then turn right at Hoowili Road.

Salt Pond Beach Park. Hawaii's only salt ponds still in production are at Salt Pond Beach, just outside Hanapepe. Generations of locals have come here to swim, fish, and collect salt crystals that are dried in sunbeds. The tangy salt is used for health purposes and to cure fish and season food. The curved reddish-gold beach lies between two rocky points and features a protected reef, tide pools, and gentle waves. Swimming here is excellent, even for children; this beach is also good for diving, windsurfing, and fishing. Amenities include a lifeguard, showers, restrooms, camping area, picnic area, pavilion, and parking lot.

Polihale State Park. This mini-Sahara on the western end of the island is Hawaii's biggest beach: 17 miles long and as wide as three football fields. This is a wonderful place to get away from it all, but don't forget your flip-flops -- the midday sand is hotter than a lava flow. The golden sands wrap around Kauai's northwestern shore from Kekaha plantation town, just beyond Waimea, to where the ridgebacks of the Na Pali Coast begin. The state park includes ancient Hawaiian heiau (temple) and burial sites, a view of the ``forbidden'' island of Niihau, and the famed Barking Sands Beach, where footfalls sound like a barking dog. (Scientists say that the grains of sand are perforated with tiny echo chambers, which emit a ``barking'' sound when they rub together.) Polihale also takes in the Pacific Missile Range Facility, a U.S. surveillance center that snooped on Russian subs during the Cold War, and Nohili Dune, which is nearly 3 miles long and 100 feet high in some places.

Be careful in winter, when high surf and rip currents make swimming dangerous. The safest place to swim is Queen's Pond, a small, shallow, sandy-bottom inlet protected from waves and shore currents. There are facilities for camping, as well as restrooms, showers, picnic tables, and pavilions.

Lydgate State Park. This seacoast park has a rock-wall fish pond that blunts the open ocean waves and provides the only safe swimming and the best snorkeling on the eastern shore.

Anini Beach County Park. Anini is Kauai's safest beach for swimming and windsurfing. It's also one of the island's most beautiful: It sits on a blue lagoon at the foot of emerald cliffs, looking more like Tahiti than almost any other strand in the islands. This 3-mile-long, gold-sand beach is shielded from the open ocean by the longest, widest fringing reef in Hawaii. With shallow water, 4 to 5 feet deep, it's also the very best snorkel spot on Kauai, even for beginners; on the northwest side, a channel in the reef runs out to the deep blue water with a 60-foot drop that attracts divers. Beachcombers love it, too: Seashells, cowries, and sometimes even rare Niihau shells can be found here. Anini has a park, a campground, picnic and barbecue facilities, and a boat-launch ramp; several B&Bs and vacation rentals are nearby.

Hanalei Beach. Gentle waves roll across the face of half-moon Hanalei Bay, running up to the wide, golden sand; sheer volcanic ridges laced by waterfalls rise to 4,000 feet on the other side, 3 miles inland. Is there any beach with a better location? Celebrated in song and hula and featured on travel posters, this beach owes its natural beauty to its age -- it's an ancient sunken valley with posterosional cliffs. Hanalei Bay indents the coast a full 1 mile inland and runs 2 miles point to point, with coral reefs on either side and a patch of coral in the middle -- plus a sunken ship that belonged to a king, so divers love it. Swimming is excellent year-round, especially in summer, when Hanalei Bay becomes a big, placid lake. The aquamarine water's also great for bodyboarding, surfing, fishing, windsurfing, canoe paddling, kayaking, and boating (a boat ramp is on the west bank of the Hanalei River).

Tunnels Beach & Haena Beach Park. Postcard-perfect, gold-sand Tunnels Beach is one of Hawaii's most beautiful. When the sun sinks into the Pacific along the fabled peaks of Bali Ha'i, there's no better-looking beach in the islands: You're bathed in golden rays that butter-up the blue sky, bounce off the steepled ridges, and tint the pale clouds hot pink. Catch the sunset from the pebbly sand beach or while swimming in the emerald-green waters, but do catch it. Tunnels is excellent for swimming nearly year-round and is safe for snorkeling, since it's protected by a fringing coral reef (the waters can get rough in winter, though). The long, curvy beach is sheltered by a forest of ironwoods that provide welcome shade from the tropic heat.

Around the corner is grainy-gold-sand Haena Beach Park, which offers excellent swimming in summer and great snorkeling amid clouds of tropical fish. But stay out of the water in winter, when the big waves are dangerous. Haena also has a grassy park for camping, making it especially popular for camping. Noise-phobes will prefer Tunnels.

Kee Beach State Park. Where the road ends on the North Shore, you'll find a dandy little reddish-gold beach almost too beautiful to be real. Don't be surprised if it looks familiar; it was featured in The Thornbirds. Kee (kay-ay) is on a reef-protected cove at the foot of fluted volcanic cliffs. Swimming and snorkeling are safe inside the reef, but dangerous outside; those North Shore waves and currents can be killers. This park has restrooms, showers, and parking, but no lifeguard.

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Biking

There are a couple of great places on Kauai for two-wheeling: the Poipu area, which has wide, flat roads and several dirt-cane roads (especially around Mahaulepu); and the cane road between Kealia Beach and Anahola, north of Kapaa. For information on bikeways and maps, contact Ann Leighton, chair of the Garden Island Resource, Conservation and Development Infrastructure Committee ([tel] 808/639-3249).

The following places rent mountain bikes, usually for $20 to $35 a day (with big discounts for multiple-day rentals): Rental Warehouse, 788 Kuhio Hwy. (across from McDonald's), Kapaa ([tel] 808/822-4000); Ray's Rentals & Activities, 4-1345 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa ([tel] 808/822-5700); Outfitters Kauai, 2827A Poipu Rd. (look for the small five-shop mall before the road forks to Poipu/Spouting Horn), Poipu ([tel] 808/742-9667); and Kauai Cycle and Tour, 1379 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa ([tel] 808/821-2115; www.bikehawaii.com/kauaicycle). For a great selection of high-quality mountain bikes at reasonable prices, it's worth the drive to Pedal 'n Paddle, in Hanalei ([tel] 808/826-9069), which has not only high-grade Kona mountain bikes with Shimano components, but also bikes with front-end suspension systems. Rentals start at $20 a day or $80 a week and include helmet, bike lock, and car rack. The shop even has kids' 20-inch BMX bikes. The knowledgeable folks here are more than happy to provide you with free maps and tell you about the best biking spots on the island.

Guided Bike Tours. Outfitters Kauai ([tel] 808/742-9667) offers a fabulous downhill bike ride from Waimea Canyon to the ocean. The 12-mile trip (mostly coasting) begins at 6am, when the van leaves the shop in Poipu and heads up to the canyon. By the time you've scarfed down the fresh-baked muffins and coffee, you're at the top of the canyon, just as the sun is rising over the rim -- it's a remarkable moment. The tour makes a couple of stops on the way down for short, scenic nature hikes. You'll be back at the shop around 10am. The sunset trip follows the same route. Both tours cost $72 per adult; $60 children 10 to 14.

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BodyBoarding & Bodysurfing

The best places for bodysurfing and Boogie Boarding are Kalapaki Beach (near Lihue) and Poipu Beach. One of the most inexpensive places to rent boogie boards is the Activity Warehouse, 788 Kuhio Hwy. (across from McDonald's), Kapaa ([tel] 808/822-4000), where they go for $2 to $6 a day.

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Boating

One of Hawaii's most spectacular natural attractions is Kauai's Na Pali Coast. Unless you're willing to make an arduous 22-mile hike, there are only two ways to see it: by helicopter or by boat. Picture yourself cruising the rugged Na Pali coastline in a 42-foot ketch-rigged yacht under full sail, watching the sunset as you enjoy a tropical cocktail, or speeding through the aquamarine water in a 40-foot trimaran as porpoises play off the bow. Or, even more exciting: cruising just above the water in a fast, low-slung rubber Zodiac, just like Jacques Cousteau.

When the Pacific humpback whales make their annual visit to Hawaii from December to March, they swim right by Kauai. In season, most boats on Kauai -- including sailboats and Zodiacs -- combine whale-watching with their regular adventures.

Kauai has many freshwater areas that are accessible only by boat, including the Fern Grotto, Wailua State Park, Huleia and Hanalei national wildlife refuges, Menehune Fish Pond, and numerous waterfalls. If you want to strike out on your own, Paradise Outdoor Adventures, 4-1596 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa ([tel] 800/66-BOATS or 808/822-0016; www.kayakers.com), has 40 different rental boats to choose from, like the popular Boston whaler (six-person capacity) for $295 a day, plus kayaks and sea cycles. Included are all the amenities, such as safety equipment, coolers, dry bags (for cameras, wallets, towels), and a comprehensive orientation on where to go. The staff will even deliver the boat to the Wailua River at no extra charge.

Bluewater Sailing. This outfitter features both swimming/snorkeling sailing charters, on a 42-foot Pierson ketch-rigged sailboat, the Lady Leanne II (maximum capacity 15 passengers); and snorkeling/sightseeing powerboat charters, on a 42-foot custom-built navy reconnaissance boat. This boat is certified for 32 passengers, but Bluewater takes only 20, to assure that everyone has plenty of room. A half-day sail/snorkel, which includes snacks and drinks, is $115 for adults and $85 for children 5 to 12. There's also a 2-hour sunset cruise, which includes snacks and drinks; it's $60 for adults, $55 for children. A 5-hour powerboat tour of the Na Pali Coast, with snorkeling, deli lunch, and drinks, goes for $110 for adults and $85 for children, while the 2-hour sightseeing (whale-watching in season) excursion costs $60 for adults and $55 for children.

Port Allen, Eleele. [tel] 808/828-1142. Prices and departure points vary depending on trip.

Captain Andy's Sailing Adventures: Captain Andy operates a 55-foot, 49-passenger catamaran out of two locations on the south shore. The snorkel/picnic cruise, a 5 1/2 -hour cruises to the Na Pali Coast, from May to October, costs $109 for adults and $79 for children 4 to 12, and includes a deli-style lunch, snorkeling, and drinks. Also there's a 3 1/2-hour sunset cruise that sets sail for $75 for adults and $60 for children, with drinks and pupu included. Kukuiula Small Boat Harbor, Poipu; and Port Allen, Eleele. [tel] 808/335-6833. Prices vary depending on trip.

Liko Kauai Cruises: Liko offers more than just a typical whale-watching cruise; this is a 4-hour combination Na Pali Coast tour-deep-sea fishing-historical lecture-whale-watching extravaganza with lunch. It all happens on a 49-foot power catamaran (with only 24 passengers). In addition to viewing the whales, you'll glimpse sea caves, waterfalls, lush valleys, and miles of white-sand beaches; you'll also make stops along the way for snorkeling. Kekaha Small Boat Harbor, Waimea. [tel] 888/SEA-LIKO or 808/338-0333. Fax 808/338-1327. Na Pali Trips $110 adults, $75 children 4-14; 3-hour whale-watching and sunset trips $75 adults, $45 children.

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Fishing

Deep-Sea Fishing: Kauai's fishing fleet is smaller and less well recognized than others in the islands, but the fish are still out there. All you need to bring is your lunch and your luck. The best way to book a sportfishing charter is through the experts, the best booking desk in the state is Sportfish Hawaii ([tel] 877/388-1376 or 808/396-2607; www.sportfishhawaii.com), which books boats not only on Kauai, but on all islands. These fishing vessels have been inspected and must meet rigorous criteria to guarantee that you will have a great time. Prices range from $500 to $1,000 for a full-day exclusive charter (you and five of your closest friends get the entire boat to yourself), $325 to $700 for a half-day exclusive, or from $165 for a full day share (you share the boat with five other people) charter.

Freshwater Fishing: Freshwater fishing is big on Kauai, thanks to its dozens of ``lakes,'' which are really man-made reservoirs. Regardless, they're full of large-mouth, small-mouth, and peacock bass (also known as tucunare). The Puu Lua Reservoir, in Kokee State Park, also has rainbow trout and is stocked by the state every year. Fishing for rainbow trout in the reservoir has a limited season: It begins on the first Saturday in August and lasts for 16 days, after which you can only fish on weekends and holidays through the last Sunday in September.

Before you rush out and get a fishing pole, you have to have a Hawaii Freshwater Fishing License, available through the State Department of Land and Natural Resources, Division of Aquatic Resources, P.O. Box 1671, Lihue, HI 96766 ([tel] 808/241-3400), or through any fishing-supply store like Lihue Fishing Supply, 2985 Kalena St., Lihue ([tel] 808/245-4930); Stan's Fishing & Liquor Supplies, Hanapepe ([tel] 808/335-5213); or Waipouli Variety, 4-901 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa ([tel] 808/822-1014). A 1-month license costs $3.75; a 1-year license is $7.50. When you get your license, pick up a copy of the booklet State of Hawaii Freshwater Fishing Regulations. Another great little book to get is The Kauai Guide to Freshwatersport Fishing, by Glenn Ikemoto, available for $2.50 plus postage from Magic Fishes Press, P.O. Box 3243, Lihue, HI 96766.

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Golf

You can rent clubs from Rental Warehouse, 788 Kuhio Hwy. (across from McDonald's), Kapaa ([tel] 808/822-4000), where top-quality clubs go for $15 a day, not-so-top-quality for $10 a day. For last-minute and discount tee times, call Stand-by Golf ([tel] 888/645-BOOK) between 7am and 11pm. Stand-by offers discounted (10% to 40%), guaranteed tee times for same-day or next-day golfing.

Kauai Lagoons Golf Courses: Choose between two excellent Jack Nicklaus-designed courses: the Mokihana Course (formerly known as the Lagoons Course), for the recreational golfer, or the Kauai Kiele Championship Course, for the low handicapper. The 6,942-yard, par-72 Mokihana is a links-style course with a bunker that's a little less severe than Kiele; emphasis is on the short game. The Kiele is a mixture of tournament-quality challenge and high-traffic playability; it winds up with one of Hawaii's most difficult holes, a 431-yard, par-4 played straightaway to an island green. Facilities include a driving range, lockers, showers, a restaurant, a snack bar, a pro shop, practice greens, a clubhouse, and club and shoe rental; transportation from the airport is provided.

Kalapaki Beach, Lihue (less than a mile from Lihue Airport). [tel] 800/634-6400 or 808/241-5061. From the airport, make a left on Kapule Hwy. (Hwy. 51) and look for the sign on your left. Greens fees at Mokihana Course: $120 before 11 am ($75 for guests of the Kauai Marriot), $65 after 11am ($55 for hotel guests); for the Kiele Course: $170 before 11 am ($120 for guests), $99 (for everybody) after 11.

Kiahuna Golf Club: This par-70, 6,353-yard Robert Trent Jones Jr.-designed course plays around four large archaeological sites, ranging from an ancient Hawaiian temple to the remains of a Portuguese home and crypt built in the early 1800s. This Scottish-style course has rolling terrain, undulating greens, 70 sand bunkers, and near-constant winds. The third hole, a par-3, 185-yarder, goes over Waikomo Stream. At any given time, just about half the players on the course are Kauai residents, the other half visitors. Facilities include a driving range, practice greens, and a snack bar. 2545 Kiahuna Plantation Dr. (adjacent to Poipu Resort area), Koloa. [tel] 808/742-9595. Take Hwy. 50 to Hwy. 520, bear left into Poipu at the fork in the road, and turn left onto Kiahuna Plantation Dr. Greens fees: $65 for guests staying in the Poipu area, $75 for everybody else. Twilight rates are $45 after 2:30pm (times for twilight rates may vary throughout the year).

Kukuiolono Golf Course: This is a fun nine-hole course in a spectacular location with scenic views of the entire south coast. You can't beat the price -- $7 for the day, whether you play 9 holes or 90. The course is in Kukuiolono Park, a beautiful wooded area donated by the family of Walter McBryde. In fact, you'll see McBryde's grave on the course, along with some other oddities, like wild chickens, ancient Hawaiian rock structures, and Japanese gardens. Of course, there are plenty of trees to keep you on your game. When you get to the second tee box, check out the coconut tree dotted with yellow, pink, orange, and white golf balls that have been driven into the bark. Don't laugh -- your next shot might add to the decor! This course shouldn't give you many problems -- it's excellently maintained and relatively straightforward, with few fairway hazards. Facilities include a driving range, practice greens, club rental, a snack bar, and a clubhouse. Kukuiolono Park, Kalaheo. [tel] 808/332-9151. Take Hwy. 50 into the town of Kalaheo; turn left on Papaluna Rd., drive up the hill for nearly a mile, and watch for the sign on your right; the entrance has huge iron gates and stone pillars -- you can't miss it. Greens fees: $7 for the day; optional cart rental is $6 for 9 holes, $12 for 18.

Poipu Bay Resort Golf Course: This 6,959-yard, par-72 course with a links-style layout is the home of the PGA Grand Slam of Golf. Designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr., this challenging course features undulating greens and water hazards on eight of the holes. The par-4 16th hole has the coastline weaving along the entire left side. You can take the safe route to the right and maybe make par (but more likely bogey), or you can try to take it tight against the ocean and possibly make it in two. The most striking (and the most disrespectful) hole is the 201-yard, par-3 on the 17th, which has a tee built on an ancient Hawaiian stone formation. Facilities include a restaurant, a locker room, a pro shop, a driving range, and putting greens. 2250 Ainako St. (across from the Hyatt Regency Kauai), Koloa. [tel] 808/742-8711. Take Hwy. 50 to Hwy. 520; bear left into Poipu at the fork in the road; turn right on Ainako St. Greens fees: $150 ($115 after noon). Guests at Poipu Resorts pay $105-$135, $65 after noon.

Princeville Golf Club, Prince Course: Here's your chance to play one of the best golf courses in Hawaii. This Robert Trent Jones Jr.-designed devil of a course sits on 390 acres molded to create oceanviews from every hole. Some holes have a waterfall backdrop to the greens, others shoot into the hillside, and the famous par-4 12th has a long tee shot off a cliff to a narrow, jungle-lined fairway 100 feet below. This is the most challenging course on Kauai; accuracy is key here. Most of the time, if you miss the fairway, your ball's in the drink. ``The average vacation golfer may find the Prince Course intimidating, but they don't mind, because it's so beautiful,'' Jones says. Facilities include a restaurant, a health club and spa, lockers, a clubhouse, a golf shop, and a driving range. Princeville. [tel] 800/826-1105 or 808/826-2726. Take Hwy. 56 to mile marker 27; the course is on your right. Greens fees: $175 ($125 for Princeville guests); $115 for everyone after noon.

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Horseback Riding

Only in Kauai can you ride a horse across the wide-open pastures of a working ranch under volcanic peaks and rein up near a waterfall pool. No wonder Kauai's paniolos smile and sing so much. Near the Poipu area, CJM Country Stables, 1731 Kelaukia St. (1.8 miles beyond the Hyatt Regency Kauai), Koloa ([tel] 808/742-6096; www.cjmstables.com), offers both 2- and 3-hour escorted Hidden Valley beach rides. You'll trot over Hidden Valley ranch land, past secluded beaches and bays, along the Hauupu Ridge, across sugarcane fields, and to Mahaulepu Beach; it's worth your time and money just to get out to this seldom seen part of Kauai. The Secret Beach and Breakfast Ride costs $75 and includes breakfast. The 2-hour Hidden Beach Ride is $65. There's also a 3 1/2-hour swim/beach/picnic ride for $90.

Princeville Ranch Stables, Highway 56 (just after the Princeville Airport), Hanalei ([tel] 808/826-6777), has a variety of outings. The 1 1/2-hour country ride takes in views of the Hanalei mountains and the vista of Anini Beach ($55), while the 3-hour adventure meanders along the bluffs of the North Shore to Anini Beach, where you tie off your horse and take a short stroll to the beach ($100). The 4-hour Waterfall Picnic Ride crosses ranch land, takes you on a short (but steep) hike to swimming pools at the base of waterfalls, and then feeds you a picnic lunch for $110. Riders must be in good physical shape; don't forget to put your swimsuit on under your jeans. The Princeville Ranch Stables also offers other adventures, ranging from the less strenuous wagon rides to a cattle-drive ride.

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Kayaking

Kauai is made for kayaking. You can take the Huleia River into Huleia National Wildlife Refuge (located along the eastern portion of the Huleia Stream where it flows into Nawiliwili Bay). It's the last stand for Kauai's endangered birds, and kayak is the only way to see it. The adventurous can head to the Na Pali Coast, featuring majestic cliffs, empty beaches, open-ocean conditions, and monster waves. Or you can just go out and paddle around Hanalei Bay.

Kayak Kauai Outbound, a mile past Hanalei Bridge on Highway 560, in Hanalei ([tel] 800/437-3507 or 808/826-9844; www.kayakkauai.com), has a range of tours for independent souls. The shop's experts will be happy to take you on a guided kayaking trip or to tell you where to go on your own. Equipment rental is $50 for a two-person river kayak and $60 for a two-person ocean kayak per day. Kayak lessons are $40 per person per hour. Tours (some including snacks) start at $50 to $60. Kayak Kauai also has its own private dock (the only one on Kauai) for launching kayaks and canoes.

Rick Haviland, who gained fame after he was mentioned in Paul Theroux's book The Happy Isles of Oceania, is the owner of Outfitters Kauai, 2827A Poipu Rd. (Poipu Plaza, a small five-shop mall before the road forks to Poipu/Spouting Horn), Poipu ([tel] 888/742-9887 or 808/742-9667; www.outfitterskauai.com), which has a bunch of different kayaking tours. A full-day trip along the entire Na Pali Coast (summer only) costs $145 per person and includes a guide, lunch, drinks, and equipment. Another kayak tour takes you up a jungle stream and involves a short hike to waterfalls and a swimming hole; it's $84 including lunch, snacks, and drinks. Outfitters Kauai also rents kayaks by the day ($30 for a single, $45 for a double).

The cheapest place to rent kayaks is the Activity Warehouse, 788 Kuhio Hwy. (across from McDonald's), Kapaa ([tel] 808/822-4000), where a one-person kayak goes for $20 a day and a two-person kayak is $40. You can also rent from Chris the Fun Lady, 4-746 Kuhio Hwy. (across from Waipouli Town Center), Kapaa ([tel] 808/882-7447; www.christhefunlady.com); Kauai Water Ski & Surf Co., Kinipopo Shopping Village, 4-356 Kuhio Hwy. (on the ocean side), Kapaa ([tel] 808/822-3574); or Pedal 'n Paddle, Ching Young Village Shopping Center, Hanalei ([tel] 808/826-9069).

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Scuba Diving

Diving on Kauai is dictated by the weather. In winter, when heavy swells and high winds hit the island, it's generally limited to the more protected south shore. Probably the best-known site along the south shore is Caverns, located off the Poipu Beach resort area. This site consists of a series of lava tubes interconnected by a chain of archways. A constant parade of fish streams by (even shy lionfish are spotted lurking in crevices), brightly hued Hawaiian lobsters hide in the lava's tiny holes, and turtles swim past.

In summer, when the north Pacific storms subside, the magnificent North Shore opens up, and you can take a boat dive locally known as the Oceanarium, northwest of Hanalei Bay, where you'll find a kaleidoscopic marine world in a horseshoe-shaped cove. From the rare (long-handed spiny lobsters) to the more common (taape, conger eels, and nudibranches), the resident population is one of the more diverse on the island. The topography, which features pinnacles, ridges, and archways, is covered with cup corals, black-coral trees, and nooks and crannies enough for a dozen dives.

Since the best dives on Kauai are offshore, we recommend booking a two-tank dive off a dive boat. Bubbles Below Scuba Charters, 6251 Hauaala Rd., Kapaa ([tel] 808/822-3483), specializes in highly personalized, small-group dives, with an emphasis on marine biology. The 35-foot boat, Kaimanu, is a custom-built Radon dive boat that comes complete with a hot shower. Two-tank boat dives cost $100 ($125 if you need gear); nondivers can come along for the ride for $50. In summer (May to Sept.), Bubbles Below offers a three-tank trip for experienced divers only to the ``forbidden'' island of Niihau, 90 minutes by boat from Kauai. You should be comfortable with vertical drop-offs, huge underwater caverns, possibly choppy surface conditions, and significant currents. You should also be willing to share water space with the resident sharks. The all-day trip costs $235, including tanks, weights, dive computer, lunch, drinks, and marine guide (if you need gear, it's $260). Nondivers can tag along for $100.

On the south side, call Fathom Five Adventures, 3450 Poipu Rd. (next to the Chevron), Koloa ([tel] 808/742-6991).

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Snorkeling

For great shoreline snorkeling, try the reef off Kee Beach/Haena Beach Park, located at the end of Highway 560. Tunnels Beach, about a mile before the end of Highway 560 in Haena, has a wide reef that's great for poking around in search of tropical fish. Be sure to check ocean conditions -- don't go if the surf is up or if there's a strong current. Anini Beach, located off the northern Kalihiwai Road (between mile markers 25 and 26 on Kuhio Hwy., or Hwy. 56), just before the Princeville Airport, has a safe, shallow area with excellent snorkeling. Poipu Beach Park has some good snorkeling to the right side of Nukumoi Point -- the tombolo area, where the narrow strip of sand divides the ocean, is best. If this spot is too crowded, wander down the beach in front of the old Waiohai resort; if there are no waves, this place is also hopping with marine life. Salt Pond Beach Park, off Highway 50 near Hanapepe, has good snorkeling around the two rocky points, home to hundreds of tropical fish.

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Surfing

Hanalei Bay's winter surf is the most popular on the island, but it's for experts only. Poipu Beach is an excellent spot to learn to surf; the waves are small and -- best of all -- nobody laughs when you wipe out. Check with the local surf shops or call the Weather Service ([tel] 808/245-3564) to find out where surf's up.

Surf lessons are available for $60 for a 1 1/2-hour session, including all-day use of equipment (board, wet suit top, and carrying rack for your car), from Windsurf Kauai, in Hanalei ([tel] 808/828-6838). Poipu is also the site of numerous surfing schools; the oldest and best is Margo Oberg's School of Surfing, at the Nuku Moi Surf Shop, across from Brennecke's Beach ([tel] 808/742-8019). Margo charges $50 for 1 hour of instruction and a half hour of practice, including surfboard and leash; she guarantees that by the end of the lesson, you'll be standing and catching a wave.

Equipment is available for rent (ranging from $5 an hour or $20 a day for ``soft'' beginner boards to $7.50 an hour or $25 a day for hard boards) from Nukumoi Surf Shop, across from Brennecke's Beach, Poipu Beach Park ([tel] 888/384-8810 or 808/742-8019); Hanalei Surf Co., 5 5161 Kuhio Hwy. (across from Zelo's Beach House Restaurant in Hanalei Center), Hanalei ([tel] 808/826-9000); and Pedal & Paddle, Ching Young Village Shopping Center, Hanalei ([tel] 808/826-9069). The cheapest place to rent a board is theActivity Warehouse, 788 Kuhio Hwy. (across from McDonald's), Kapaa ([tel] 808/822-4000), where they start at $10 a day.

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Tennis

The Kauai County Parks and Recreation Department, 4444 Rice St., Suite 150, Lihue ([tel] 808/241-6670), has a list of the nine county tennis courts around the island, all of which are free and open to the public. Private courts that are open to the public include the Princeville Tennis Club, Princeville Hotel ([tel] 808/826-3620), which has six courts available for $15 per person ($12 for guests) for 90 minutes. On the south side, try Hyatt Regency Kauai Resort and Spa, Poipu Resort ([tel] 808/742-1234), which has four courts, available for $20 an hour; and Kiahuna Tennis Club, Poipu Road (just past the Poipu Shopping Village on the left), Poipu Resort ([tel] 808/742-9533), which has 10 courts renting for $10 per person per hour.

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Water-skiing

Hawaii's only freshwater water-skiing is on the Wailua River. Ski boats launch from the boat ramp in Wailua River State Park, directly across from the marina. Kauai Water Ski & Surf Co., Kinipopo Shopping Village, 4-356 Kuhio Hwy., Kapaa ([tel] 800/344-7915 or 808/822-3574), rents equipment and offers lessons and guided tours; it's $55 for a half-hour trip and $100 for an hour.

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Windsurfing

Anini Beach is one of the safest beaches for beginners to learn windsurfing. Lessons and equipment rental are available at Windsurf Kauai, in Hanalei ([tel] 808/828-6838). A 3-hour lesson costs $75, including equipment; rentals are $50 for a half day or $75 for a full day. Serious windsurfers should head to Hanalei Bay or Tunnels Beach on the North Shore.

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Attractions

Spouting Horn: This natural phenomenon is second only to Yellowstone's Old Faithful. It's quite a sight -- big waves hit Kauai's south shore with enough force to send a spout of funneled saltwater 10 feet or more up in the air; in winter, the water can get as high as six stories.

Spouting Horn is different from other blowholes in Hawaii, in that it has an additional hole that blows air that sounds like a loud moaning. According to Hawaiian legend, this coastline was once guarded by a giant female lizard (Mo'o); she would gobble up any intruders. One day, along came Liko, who wanted to fish in this area. Mo'o rushed out to eat Liko. Quickly, Liko threw a spear right into the giant lizard's mouth. Mo'o then chased Liko into a lava tube. Liko escaped, but legend says Mo'o is still in the tube, and the moaning sound at Spouting Horn is her cry for help.

Allerton Garden of the National Tropical Botanical Garden: Discover an extraordinary collection of tropical fruit and spice trees, rare Hawaiian plants, and hundreds of varieties of flowers at the 186-acre preserve known as Lawai Gardens, said to be the largest collection of rare and endangered plants in the world. Adjacent, McBryde Garden, a royal home site of Queen Emma in the 1860s, is known for its formal gardens, a delicious kind of colonial decadence. It's set amid fountains, streams, waterfalls, and European statuary. Endangered green sea turtles can be seen here (their home in the sea was wiped out years ago by Hurricane Iniki). The tours are fascinating for green thumbs and novices alike. Visitor Center, Lawai Rd. (across the street from Spouting Horn), Poipu. [tel] 808/742-2623. www.ntbg.org. Admission $30. Guided 2 1/2-hour tours by reservation only, Mon-Sat at 9am, 10am, 1pm, and 2pm. Tours of McBryde Garden, Mon-Sat 9am and 1 pm. Reserve a week in advance in peak months of July, Aug, and Sept.

The Grand Canyon of the Pacific -- Waimea Canyon: The great gaping gulch known as Waimea Canyon is quite a sight. This valley, known for its reddish lava beds, reminds everyone who sees it of the Grand Canyon. Kauai's version is bursting with ever-changing color, just like its namesake, but it's smaller -- only a mile wide, 3,567 feet deep, and 12 miles long. A massive earthquake sent all the streams flowing into a single river that ultimately carved this picturesque canyon. Today, the Waimea River -- a silver thread of water in the gorge, sometimes a trickle, often a torrent, but always there -- keeps cutting the canyon deeper and wider, and nobody can say what the result will be 100 million years from now.

Kokee State Park: It's only 16 miles from Waimea to Kokee, but it's a whole different world because the park is 4,345 acres of rain forest. You'll enter a new climate zone, where the breeze has a bite and trees look quite continental. You're in a cloud forest on the edge of the Alakai Swamp, the largest swamp in Hawaii, on the summit plateau of Kauai. Days are cool and wet, with intermittent bright sunshine, not unlike Seattle on a good day. Bring your sweater, and, if you're staying over, be sure you know how to light a fire (overnight lows dip into the 40s).

The forest is full of native plants, such as mokihana berry, ohia lehua tree, iliau (similar to Maui's silversword), and imports like Australia's eucalyptus and California's redwood. Pigs, goats, and black-tailed deer thrive in the forest, but the moa, or Polynesian jungle fowl, is the cock of the walk.

A nature walk is the best intro to this rain forest; it starts behind the museum at the rare Hawaiian koa tree. This easy, self-guided walk of about 1/10 mile takes about 20 minutes if you stop and look at all the plants, identified along the way.

Two miles above Kokee Lodge is Kalalau Lookout, the spectacular climax of your drive through Waimea Canyon and Kokee. When you stand at the lookout, below you is a work in progress that began at least 5 million years ago. It's hard to stop looking; the view is breathtaking, especially when light and cloud shadows play across the red-and-orange cliffs.

Helicopter Rides over Waimea Canyon & the Na Pali Coast: Don't leave Kauai without seeing it from a helicopter. It's expensive but worth the splurge. You can take home memories of the thrilling ride up and over the Kalalau Valley on Kauai's wild North Shore and into the 5,200-foot vertical temple of Mount Waialeale, the most sacred place on the island and the wettest spot on earth (and in some cases, you can even take a video of your ride home). All flights leave from Lihue Airport.

Curt Lofstedt has been flying helicopter tours of Kauai for his Island Helicopters for nearly three decades. He personally selects and trains professional pilots with an eye not only to their flying skills but also to their ability to share the magic of Kauai. All flights are in either the four-passenger Bell Jet Ranger III or the six-passenger Aerospatiale ASTAR, with extra large windows and stereo headsets to hear the pilot's personal narration. You'll be able to relive your memories of the Na Pali Coast and Nualolo Aina (the Valley of the Lost Tribes) with a complimentary video of your trip. Lihue Airport. [tel] 800/829-5999 or 808/245-8588. www.islandhelicopters.com. 55-minute island tour $197.50. Mention Frommer's and receive 35% off. Rates include one complimentary video per couple.

The pioneer of helicopter flights on Kauai, Jack Harter was the guy who started the sightseeing-via-helicopter trend. On the 60-minute tour, he flies a four-passenger Bell Jet Ranger Model 204 (with just installed ``scenic view'' windows), a six-seater A-star, or a Eurocopter AS350BA A-star. The 90-minute tour (in the Bell Jet Ranger only) hovers over the sights a bit longer than the 60-minute flight, so you can get a good look, but we found the shorter tour pretty sufficient. 4231 Ahukini Rd., Lihue. [tel] 888/245-2001 or 808/245-3774. www.helicopters-kauai.com. 60-minute tour $165; 90-minute tour $235.

Hawaiian-born pilot Bogart Kealoha of Ohana Helicopter Tours delights in showing his island his way -- aboard one of his four-passenger Bell Jet Rangers or his six-passenger Aerospatiale A-Star helicopter. You're linked to a customized audio entertainment system through individual headsets with narration as you swoop over and through 12-mile-long Waimea Canyon on a memorable sightseeing flight that also includes the valleys and waterfalls of the Na Pali Coast. Anchor Cove Shopping Center, 3416 Rice St., Lihue. [tel] 800/222-6989 or 808/245-3996. www.ohana-helicopters.com. 50- to 55-minute tour $146; 65- to 70-minute tour $186.

Fern Grotto: This is one of Kauai's oldest (``since 1947'') and most popular tourist attractions. Several times daily, Smith's Motor Boats ([tel] 808/821-6892) and Waialeale Boat Tours ([tel] 808/822-4908) take 150 people up and down the river on a 90-minute, 2 1/2-mile, motorized river trip to a natural amphitheater filled with ferns. The grotto is the source of many Hawaiian legends and a popular site for weddings. Wailua Marina, at the mouth of the Wailua River; turn off Kuhio Hwy. (Hwy. 56) into Wailua Marine State Park. Daily 9am-3:30pm. Admission $15 adults, $7.50 children 3-12; reservations recommended.

Wailua River State Park: Ancients called the Wailua River ``the river of the great sacred spirit.'' Seven temples once stood along this 20-mile river, which is fed by 5,148-foot Mount Waialeale, the wettest spot on earth.

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Paradise Found: The North Shore

The first place everyone should go on Kauai is Hanalei. The drive along Kuhio Highway (Hwy. 56, which becomes Hwy. 560 after Princeville to the end of the road), displays Kauai's grandeur at its absolute best. Just before Kilauea, the air and the sea change, the light falls in a different way, and the last signs of development are behind you. Now there are roadside fruit stands, a little stone church in Kilauea, two roadside waterfalls, and a long, stiltlike bridge over the Kalihiwai Stream and its green river valley.

If you don't know a guava from a mango, stop in Kilauea at the cool, shady Guava Kai Plantation, at the end of Kuawa Road ([tel] 808/828-6121), for a refreshing, free treat. After you take a walk through the orchards and see what a guava looks like on the tree, you can sample the juice of this exotic pink tropical fruit (which also makes a great jam or jelly -- sold here, too). The plantation is open daily from 9am to 5pm.

Birders might want to stop off at Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, a mile north of Kilauea, and the Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, along Ohiki Road, at the west end of the Hanalei River Bridge. In the Hanalei Refuge, along a dirt road on a levee, you can see the Hariguchi Rice Mill, now a historic treasure.

Now the coastal highway heads due west and the showy ridgelines of Mount Namahana create a grand amphitheater. The two-lane coastal highway rolls over pastures of grazing cattle, past a tiny airport, and the luxurious Princeville Hotel.

Five miles past Kilauea, just past the Princeville Shopping Center, is Hanalei Valley Lookout. Big enough for a dozen cars, this lookout attracts crowds of people who peer over the edge into the 917-acre Hanalei River Valley. So many shades of green: rice green, taro green, and green streams lace a patchwork of green ponds that back up to green-velvet Bali Ha'i cliffs. Pause to catch the first sight of taro growing in irrigated ponds; maybe you'll see an endangered Hawaiian black-necked stilt. Don't be put off by the crowds; this is definitely worth a look.

Farther along, a hairpin turn offers another scenic look at Hanalei town; then you cross the Hanalei Bridge. The Pratt truss steel bridge, pre-fabbed in New York City, was erected in 1912; it's now on the National Registry of Historic Landmarks. If it ever goes out, the nature of Hanalei will change forever; currently, this rusty, one-lane bridge (which must violate all kinds of Department of Transportation safety regulations) isn't big enough for a tour bus to cross.

You'll drive slowly past the Hanalei River banks and Bill Mowry's Hanalei Buffalo Ranch, where 200 American bison roam in the tropic sun; you may even see buffalo grazing in the pastures on your right. The herd is often thinned to make buffalo patties.

Just past Tahiti Nui, turn right on Aku Road before Ching Young Village, then take a right on Weke Road; Hanalei Beach Park, one of Hawaii's most gorgeous, is a half block ahead on your left. Swimming is excellent here year-round, especially in summer, when Hanalei Bay becomes a big, placid lake.

If this exquisite 2-mile-long beach doesn't meet your expectations, head down the highway, where the next 7 miles of coast yield some of Kauai's other spectacular beaches, including Lumahai Beach, of South Pacific movie fame; Tunnels Beach, where the 1960s puka-shell necklace craze began; and Haena Beach Park, a fabulous place to kick back and enjoy the waves, particularly in summer. Once you've found your beach, stick around until sundown, then head back to one of the North Shore's restaurants for a mai tai and a fresh seafood dinner. Another perfect day in paradise.

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