The Top Maui Experiences

Greeting The Rising Sun From Atop Haleakala. Bundle up, fill a thermos with hot java, and drive up the 37 miles from sea level to 10,000 feet to witness the birth of yet another day. Breathing in the rarefied air and watching the first rays of light streak across the sky makes the Haleakala sunrise a mystical experience.

Watching For Whales. No need to head out in a boat -- in winter, you can see these majestic mammals breach and spy hop from shore. One of the best places is scenic McGregor Point, at mile marker 9 along Honoapiilani Highway, just outside Maalaea in south Maui. The humpbacks arrive as early as November, but the majority travel through Maui's waters from mid-December to mid-April.

Snorkeling Off Makena Landing. Calm waters and an abundance of marine life make Makena Bay one of Hawaii's best places to swim with the fishes. Don a mask and snorkel and paddle with turtles, watch clouds of butterfly fish flitter past, and search for tiny damsel fish in the coral.

Taking A Dip In The Seven Sacred Pools. There are actually more than seven of these fern-shrouded waterfall pools, and they're all beautiful. They spill seaward at Oheo Gulch, on the rainy eastern flanks of Haleakala. Some people try to swim in the pools nearest the sea; if you do, keep an eye on the sky overhead so that a sudden cloudburst doesn't send you cascading out to sea.

Venturing Back In Time In A Historic Port Town. In the 1800s, when whaling was at its height, seafarers swarmed into Lahaina and missionaries fought to stem the spread of their sinful influence. It was a wild time, and this tiny town was an exciting place. The Lahaina Restoration Society, in the Master's Reading Room on Front and Dickenson streets, will give you a free map that will let you discover those wild whaling days for yourself.

Watching Windsurfers Ride The Waves At Hookipa. Just off the Hana Highway past Paia is Hookipa Beach, known the world over as a windsurfing mecca. The great waves and consistent wind draw top windsurfers from around the globe. Watch spellbound as these colorful sailboarders ride, sail, and pirouette over the waves, turning into the wind and flipping into the air while rotating 360 degrees. It's the best free show in town.

Exploring Iao Valley. When the sun strikes Iao Valley in the West Maui Mountains, an almost ethereal light sends rays out in all directions. This really may be Eden.

Walking The Shoreline Trail At Waianapanapa. A 6-mile trail follows the shoreline, bordered on one side by lava cliffs and a forest of lauhala trees, on the other by the open ocean. As you go, you'll pass an ancient heiau (temple), some fascinating caves, a pretty cool blowhole, jungly native Hawaiian plants, and the ever-changing sea.

Heading To Kula To Bid The Sun Aloha. Harold Rice Park, just off Kula Highway, is the perfect vantage point for watching the sun set over the entire island: down the side of Haleakala, out across the isthmus, and over to the West Maui Mountains, with Molokai and Lanai in the distance. As the sun sinks in the sky, the light shifts from bright yellow to mellow red. Once the sun drops below the horizon, the sky puts on its own Technicolor show in a dazzling array of colors.

Experiencing Art Night In Lahaina. Every Friday after the sun goes down, most of the town's galleries open their doors, serve pupu and refreshments, and hope you'll wander in. This is a fun, festive way to see what's going on in Maui's creative community. You may even be able to meet the artists, as many are on hand to talk about their works.

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West Maui Beaches

Kaanapali Beach: Four-mile-long Kaanapali is one of Maui's best beaches, with grainy gold sand as far as the eye can see. The beach parallels the sea channel through most of its length, and a paved beach walk links hotels and condos, open-air restaurants, and the Whalers Village shopping center. Because Kaanapali is so long and broad, and because most hotels have adjacent swimming pools, the beach is crowded only in pockets -- there's plenty of room to find seclusion. Summertime swimming is excellent. The best snorkeling is around Black Rock, in front of the Sheraton, where the water's clear, calm, and populated with clouds of tropical fish.

Kapalua Beach: The beach cove that fronts the Kapalua Bay Hotel and Villas is the stuff of dreams: a golden crescent bordered by two palm-studded points. The sandy bottom slopes gently to deep water at the bay mouth; the water's so clear that you can see where the gold sands turn to green and then deep blue. Protected from strong winds and currents by the lava-rock promontories, Kapalua's calm waters are ideal for snorkelers and swimmers of all ages and abilities, and the bay is big enough to paddle a kayak around in without getting into the more challenging channel that separates Maui from Molokai. Waves come in just right for riding, and fish hang out by the rocks, making it great for snorkeling.

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South Maui Beaches

Wailea's beaches may seem off-limits, hidden from plain view as they are by an intimidating wall of luxury resorts, but they're all open to the public by law. Look for the shoreline access signs along Wailea Alanui Drive, the resort's main boulevard.

Kamaole III Beach Park: Three beach parks -- Kamaole I, II, and III -- stand like golden jewels in the front yard of the funky seaside town of Kihei, which all of a sudden is sprawling like suburban blight. The beaches are the best thing about Kihei. These three are popular with local residents and visitors alike because they're easily accessible. On weekends, they're jam-packed with fishermen, picnickers, swimmers, and snorkelers. The most popular is Kamaole III, or ``Kam-3.'' The biggest of the three beaches, with wide pockets of gold sand, it's the only one with a children's playground and a grassy lawn. Swimming is safe here, but scattered lava rocks are toe-stubbers at the water line, and parents should make sure their kids don't venture too far out, as the bottom slopes off quickly. Both the north and south shores are rocky fingers with a surge big enough to attract fish and snorkelers; the winter waves appeal to bodysurfers. Kam-3 is also a wonderful place to watch the sunset. Facilities include restrooms, showers, picnic tables, barbecue grills, and lifeguards. There's plenty of parking on South Kihei Road across from the Maui Parkshore condos.

Wailea Beach: Wailea is the best golden-sand crescent on Maui's sunbaked southwestern coast. One of five beaches within Wailea Resort, Wailea is big, wide, and protected on both sides by black-lava points. It's the front yard of the Four Seasons Wailea and the Grand Wailea Resort Hotel and Spa, Maui's most elegant and outrageous beach hotels, respectively. From the beach, the view out to sea is magnificent, framed by neighboring Kahoolawe and Lanai and the tiny crescent of Molokini, probably the most popular snorkel spot in these parts. The clear waters tumble to shore in waves just the right size for gentle riding, with or without a board. From shore, you can see Pacific humpback whales in season (December through April) and unreal sunsets nightly. Facilities include restrooms, outdoor showers, and limited free parking at the blue shoreline access sign, which points toward Wailea Alanui Drive.

Ulua Beach: One of the most popular beaches in Wailea, Ulua is a long, wide, crescent-shaped gold-sand beach between two rocky points. When the ocean's calm, Ulua offers Wailea's best snorkeling; when it's rough, the waves are excellent for bodysurfers. The ocean bottom is shallow and gently slopes down to deeper waters, making swimming generally safe. The beach is usually occupied by guests of nearby resorts. In high season (Christmas through March and June through August), it's carpeted with beach towels and packed with sunbathers like sardines in cocoa butter. Facilities include showers and restrooms. Beach equipment is available for rent at the nearby Wailea Ocean Activity Center. Look for the blue shoreline access sign on South Kihei Road, near Renaissance Wailea Beach Resort; a tiny parking lot is nearby.

Maluaka Beach: On the southern end of Maui's resort coast, development falls off dramatically, leaving a wild, dry countryside of green kiawe trees. The Maui Prince sits in isolated splendor, sharing Makena Resort's 1,800 acres with only a couple of first-rate golf courses and a necklace of perfect beaches. The strand nearest the hotel is Maluaka Beach, often called Makena, notable for its beauty and its views of Molokini Crater, the offshore islet, and Kahoolawe, the so-called ``target'' island (it was used as a bombing target from 1945 until the early 1990s). This is a short, wide, palm-fringed crescent of golden, grainy sand set between two black-lava points and bounded by big sand dunes topped by a grassy knoll. The swimming in this mostly calm bay is considered the best on Makena Bay, which is bordered on the south by Puu Olai Cinder Cone and historic Keawalai Congregational Church. The waters around Makena Landing, at the north end of the bay, are particularly good for snorkeling. Facilities include restrooms, showers, a landscaped park, lifeguards, and roadside parking. Along Makena Alanui, look for the shoreline access sign near the hotel, turn right, and head down to the shore.

Oneloa Beach: Oneloa, meaning ``long sand'' in Hawaiian, is one of the most popular beaches on Maui. Locals call it ``Big Beach'' -- it's 3,300 feet long and more than 100 feet wide. Mauians come here to swim, fish, sunbathe, surf, and enjoy the view of Kahoolawe and Lanai. Snorkeling is good around the north end, at the foot of Puu Olai, a 360-foot cinder cone. During storms, however, big waves lash the shore, and a strong rip current sweeps the sharp drop-off, posing a danger for inexperienced open-ocean swimmers. There are no facilities except for portable toilets, but there's plenty of parking. To get here, drive past the Maui Prince Hotel to the second dirt road, which leads through a kiawe thicket to the beach.

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East Maui Beaches

Hookipa Beach Park: Two miles past Paia, on the Hana Highway, is one of the most famous windsurfing sites in the world. Because of its hard, constant wind and endless waves, Hookipa attracts top windsurfers and wave jumpers from around the globe. Surfers and fishermen also enjoy this small, gold-sand beach at the foot of a grassy cliff, which provides a natural amphitheater for spectators. Except when competitions are being held, weekdays are the best times to watch the daredevils fly over the waves. When waves are flat, snorkelers and divers explore the reef. Facilities include restrooms, showers, pavilions, picnic tables, barbecues, and parking.

Waianapanapa State Park: Four miles before Hana, off the Hana Highway, is this beach park, which takes its name from the legend of the Waianapanapa Cave, where Chief Kaakea, a jealous and cruel man, suspected his wife, Popoalaea, of having an affair. Popoalaea left her husband and hid herself in a chamber of the Waianapanapa Cave. She and her attendant ventured out only at night for food. Nevertheless, a few days later, Kaakea was passing by the area and saw the shadow of the servant. Knowing he had found his wife's hiding place, Kaakea entered the cave and killed her. During certain times of the year, the water in the tide pool turns red, commemorating Popoalaea's death. (Scientists claim, less imaginatively, that the water turns red due to the presence of small red shrimp.)

Swimming is generally unsafe, though, due to strong waves and rip currents. Because Waianapanapa is crowded on weekends with local residents and their families, as well as tourists, weekdays are generally a better bet.

Hamoa Beach: This half moon-shaped, gray-sand beach (a mix of coral and lava) in a truly tropical setting is a favorite of sunbathers seeking rest and refuge. The Hotel Hana-Maui maintains the beach and acts as though it's private, which it isn't -- so just march down the lava-rock steps and grab a spot on the sand. James Michener called it ``a beach so perfectly formed that I wonder at its comparative obscurity.'' The 100-foot-wide beach is three football fields long and sits below 30-foot black-lava sea cliffs. Surf on this unprotected beach breaks offshore and rolls in, making it a popular surfing and bodysurfing area. Hamoa is often swept by powerful rip currents. The calm left side is best for snorkeling in summer. The hotel has numerous facilities for guests; there's an outdoor shower and restrooms for nonguests. Parking is limited.

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Bicycling

For bike excursions throughout Maui, call Chris' Adventures ([tel] 808/871-2453). Chris offers a variety of bike tours (ranging from $49 to $110); we recommend the Waihee-Kahakuloa Coastal Adventure ($59), which involves hiking the Waihee Valley or Ridge and then biking along the spectacular northwestern coast, which feels like old Hawaii.

If you want to venture out on your own, cheap rentals -- $10 a day for cruisers and $20 a day for mountain bikes -- are available from Rental Warehouse, at 578 Front St. (near Prison St.), Lahaina ([tel] 808/661-1970); or in Kihei at Azeka Place II, on Kihei Road near Lipoa Street ([tel] 808/875-4050).

Cruising Haleakala: It's not even close to dawn, but here you are, rubbing your eyes awake, riding in a van up the long, dark road to the top of Maui's sleeping volcano. It's colder than you ever thought possible for a tropical island. The air is thin. You stomp your chilly feet while you wait, sipping hot coffee. Then comes the sun, exploding over the yawning Haleakala Crater, big enough to swallow Manhattan -- a mystic moment you won't soon forget. Now you know why Hawaiians named the crater the House of the Sun. But there's no time to linger: Decked out in your screaming-yellow parka, you mount your mechanical steed and test its most important feature, the brakes -- because you're about to coast 37 miles down a 10,000-foot volcano.

Cruising down Haleakala, from the lunarlike landscape at the top past flower farms, pineapple fields, and eucalyptus groves, is quite an experience -- and just about anybody can do it. This is a safe, no-strain bicycle trip that requires some stamina in the colder, wetter winter months but is fun for everyone in the warmer months -- the key word being warmer. In winter and the rainy season, conditions can be harsh, especially on the top, with below-freezing temperatures and 40 mile-per-hour winds.

Maui's oldest downhill company is Maui Downhill ([tel] 800/535-BIKE or 808/871-2155), which offers a sunrise safari bike tour, including continental breakfast and brunch, starting at $130. If it's all booked up, try Maui Mountain Cruisers ([tel] 800/232-6284 or 808/871-6014), which has sunrise trips at $120, or Mountain Riders Bike Tours ([tel] 800/706-7700 or 808/242-9739), with sunrise rides for $120. All rates include hotel pickup, transport to the top, bicycle, safety equipment, and meals. Wear layers of warm clothing, as there may be a 30F change in temperature from the top of the mountain to the ocean. Generally, the tour groups will not take riders under 12, but younger children can ride along in the van that accompanies the groups.

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Boating

Maui is big on snorkel cruises. The crescent-shaped islet called Molokini is one of the best snorkel and scuba spots in Hawaii. Always remember to bring a towel, swimsuit, sunscreen, and hat on a snorkel cruise; everything else is usually included. If you'd like to go a little deeper than snorkeling allows, consider trying Snuba. Most of these snorkel boats offer it for an additional cost; it's usually around $50 for a half hour or so.

America II: This U.S. contender in the 1987 America's Cup race is a true racing boat, a 65-foot, 12-meter sailing yacht offering four different 2-hour trips in winter, three in summer: a morning sail, an afternoon sail, and a sunset sail, plus whale-watching in winter. These are sailing trips. No snorkeling -- just the thrill of racing with the wind. Complimentary bottled water, soda, and chips are available. Lahaina Harbor, slip 5. [tel] 888/667-2133 or 808/667-2195. Trips $32.95 adults, $16.50 children 12 and under.

Maui Classic Charters: Maui Classic Charters offers snorkel-sail cruises to Molokini plus a second location on fast, state-of-the-art catamaran, Maui Magic. The 5-hour journey costs $99 for adults and $79 for children ages 5 to 12, including a continental breakfast, barbecue lunch, beer, wine, soda, snorkel gear, and instruction. During whale season (Dec 22-Apr 22), the Maui Magic Whale Watch, a hour and a half trip with beverages is $29 for adults and $24 for children ages 3 to 12 years. The company also offers 5-hour sail-snorkel trips to Molokini aboard its new 55-foot glass-bottom catamaran, Four Winds II ($72 for adults, $47 for children ages 3 to 12), as well as a 3[bf]1/2-hour afternoon trip (with a naturalist onboard during whale season) for $39.95 for adults and $29.95 for children. Four Winds trips include a continental breakfast; a barbecue lunch; complimentary beer, wine, and soda; complimentary snorkeling gear and instruction; and sportfishing along the way. Maalaea Harbor, slip 55 and slip 80. [tel] 800/736-5740 or 808/879-8188. www.mauicharters.com. Prices vary depending on cruise.

Navatek II : For all of you who go out on the sea with patches stuck behind your ears, this boat's for you; you couldn't get sick if you tried. The new and unusual 82-foot SWATH (Small Waterplane Area Twin Hull) vessel is designed to operate in heavy seas without spilling your mai tai. The ship's superstructure (the part you ride on) rests on twin torpedo-like hulls that slash the water, creating a remarkably smooth ride. In fact, the comfortable, air-conditioned boat (with spacious outside decks and hot and cold showers) glides through the water so smoothly that you'll forget you're on the sea.

Cruises to Lanai on Navatek II include a 90-minute snorkel off Lanai's rugged west coast, breakfast, lunch, a sail along Lanai's remote coastline, plus whale-watching in season. This 9am-to-3pm adventure is $119.95 for adults, $98.95 for kids ages 12 to 17, and $78.10 for kids 5 to 11.

Navatek II offers one of Hawaii's best sunset dinner cruises. You can watch porpoises play (and whales in winter) as the sun sets, then watch the stars come out as you sail to Lahaina. The 2-hour cruise, operating Saturday through Thursday, is $90.60 for adults and $57.30 for kids ages 2 to 11, including Hawaiian entertainment and a full bar.

330 Hukilike St., Kahului, HI 96732; cruises depart from Maalaea Harbor. [tel] 888/848-6787 or 808/873-3475. www.atlantisadventures.com. Prices vary depending on cruise.

Ocean Activities Center: In season, this activities center runs 2-hour whale-watching cruises on its own spacious 65-foot catamaran; trips are $30 for adults and $18 for children ages 3 to 12. The best deal to Molokini is the 5-hour Maka Kai cruise, which includes a continental breakfast, deli lunch, snorkel gear, and instruction; it's $55 for adults, $44 for teenagers, and $35 for children ages 3 to 12. Trips leave from Maalaea Harbor, slip 62. 1847 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei. [tel] 800/798-0652 or 808/879-4485. Prices vary depending on cruise.

Pacific Whale Foundation: This not-for-profit foundation supports its whale research by offering whale-watch cruises and snorkel tours, some to Molokini and Lanai. It operates a 65-foot power catamaran called Ocean Spirit, a 50-foot sailing catamaran called Manute'a, and a sea kayak. There are 15 daily trips to choose from, offered from December through May, out of both Lahaina and Maalaea harbors. 101 N. Kihei Rd., Kihei. [tel] 800/942-5311 or 808/879-8811. www.pacificwhale.org. Trips from $19.80 adults, $14.90 children; snorkeling cruises from $44.50.

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BodyBoarding & Bodysurfing

In winter, Maui's best bodysurfing spot is Mokuleia Beach, known locally as Slaughterhouse because of the cattle slaughterhouse that once stood here, not because of the waves -- although these waves are for expert bodysurfers only. Take Honoapiilani Highway just past Kapalua Bay Resort; various trails will take you down to the pocket beach.

Good bodyboarding can be found at Baldwin Beach Park, just outside Paia. Storms from the south bring fair bodysurfing conditions and great bodyboarding to the lee side of Maui: Oneloa Beach (or Big Beach) in Makena, Ulua and Kamaole III in Kihei, and Kapalua beaches are all good choices.

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Golf

For last-minute and discount tee times, call Stand-by Golf ([tel] 888/645-BOOK or 808/874-0600) between 7am and 11pm. Stand-by offers discounted (from 10% to 40%), guaranteed tee times for same-day or next-day golfing.

At Rental Warehouse, 578 Front St. (near Prison St.), Lahaina ([tel] 808/661-1970), top-quality clubs rent for $15 a day, lower quality for $10 a day. Golf Club Rentals ([tel] 808/665-0800) has custom-built clubs for men, women, and juniors (both right- and left-handed), which can be delivered islandwide; the rates are just $15 to $25 a day. The company also offers lessons with pros starting at $75.

Kaanapali Courses: Both courses at Kaanapali offer a challenge to all golfers, from high handicappers to near-pros. The par-72, 6,305-yard North Course is a true Robert Trent Jones design: an abundance of wide bunkers; several long, stretched-out tees; and the largest, most contoured greens on Maui. The tricky 18th hole (par 4, 435 yards) has a water hazard on the approach to the green. The par-72, 6,250-yard South Course is an Arthur Jack Snyder design; although shorter than the North Course, it requires more accuracy on the narrow, hilly fairways. It also has a water hazard on its final hole, so don't tally up your scorecard until the final putt is sunk. Off Hwy. 30, Kaanapali. [tel] 808/661-3691. Greens fees: $150 (North Course), $140 (South Course); Kaanapali guests pay $130 (North), $117 (South); twlight rates are $85 after noon for everyone; after 2pm twlight rates are $77 (North), $74 (South) for everyone.

Kapalua Resort Courses: The views from these three championship courses are worth the greens fees alone. The par-72, 6,761-yard Bay Course ([tel] 808/669-8820) was designed by Arnold Palmer and Ed Seay. This course is a bit forgiving, with its wide fairways; the greens, however, are difficult to read. The well-photographed fifth overlooks a small ocean cove; even the pros have trouble with this rocky par-3, 205-yard hole. The par-71, 6,632-yard Village Course ([tel] 808/669-8830), another Palmer/Seay design, is the most scenic of the three courses. The hole with the best vista is the sixth, which overlooks a lake with the ocean in the distance. But don't get distracted by the view -- the tee is between two rows of Cook pines. The Plantation Course ([tel] 808/669-8877), site of the Mercedes Championships, is a Ben Crenshaw/Bill Coore design. This 6,547-yard, par-73 course, set on a rolling hillside, is excellent for developing your low shots and precise chipping. Facilities for all three courses include locker rooms, a driving range, and an excellent restaurant. Weekdays are your best bet for tee times. Off Hwy. 30, Kapalua. [tel] 877/KAPALUA. Greens fees: $180 ($125 for hotel guests) at the Village and Bay courses ($80 after 2pm); $220 ($135 for guests) at the Plantation Course ($85 after 2pm).

Makena Courses: Here you'll find 36 holes of ``Mr. Hawaii Golf'' -- Robert Trent Jones Jr. -- at its best. Add to that spectacular views: Molokini islet looms in the background, humpback whales gambol offshore in winter, and the tropical sunsets are spectacular. The par-72, 6,876-yard South Course has a couple of holes you'll never forget. The view from the par-4 15th hole, which shoots from an elevated tee 183 yards downhill to the Pacific, is magnificent. The 16th hole has a two-tiered green that's blind from the tee 383 yards away (that is, if you make it past the gully off the fairway). The par-72, 6,823-yard North Course is more difficult and more spectacular. The 13th hole, located partway up the mountain, has a view that makes most golfers stop and stare. The next hole is even more memorable: a 200-foot drop between tee and green. On Makena Alanui Dr., just past the Maui Prince Hotel. [tel] 808/879-3344. Greens fees: $125 ($90 for Makena Resort guests). Twilight fees (after 2pm) are $75 ($60 for guests).

Wailea Courses: There are three courses to choose from at Wailea. The Blue Course, a par-72, 6,758-yard course designed by Arthur Jack Snyder and dotted with bunkers and water hazards, is for duffers and pros alike. The wide fairways appeal to beginners, while the undulating terrain makes it a course everyone can enjoy. A little more difficult is the par-72, 7,078-yard championship Gold Course, with narrow fairways, several tricky dogleg holes, and the classic Robert Trent Jones Jr. challenges: natural hazards, like lava-rock walls, and native Hawaiian grasses. The Emerald Course, also designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr. is Wailea's newest, with tropical landscaping and a player-friendly design.

With 54 holes to play, getting a tee time is slightly easier on weekends than at other resorts, but weekdays are best (the Emerald Course is usually the toughest to book). Wailea Alanui Dr. (off Wailea Iki Dr.), Wailea. [tel] 888/328-MAUI or 808/875-7540. Greens fees range from $80-$145, depending on the season and where you're staying. Twilight rates range from $60-$80. Special deals are available Apr-Dec.

Pukalani Country Club: This cool, par-72, 6,962-yard course at 1,100 feet offers a break from the resorts' high greens fees, and it's really fun to play. The third hole offers golfers two different options: a tough iron shot from the tee (especially into the wind), across a gully (yuck!) to the green; or a shot down the side of the gully across a second green into sand traps below. (Most people choose to shoot down the side of the gully; it's actually easier than shooting across a ravine.) High handicappers will love this course, and more experienced players can make it more challenging by playing from the back tees. Facilities include club and shoe rentals, practice areas, lockers, a pro shop, and a restaurant. 360 Pukalani St., Pukalani. [tel] 808/572-1314. Greens fees, including cart, are $55 for 18 holes before 11 am; $45 11am-2pm; $35 after 2pm. Take the Hana Hwy. (Hwy. 36) to Haleakala Hwy. (Hwy. 37) to the Pukalani exit; turn right onto Pukalani St. and go 2 blocks.

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Horseback Riding

Maui offers spectacular adventure rides through rugged ranchlands, into tropical forests, and to remote swimming holes. For a 5 1/2-hour tour on horseback -- complete with swimming and lunch -- call Adventure on Horseback ([tel] 808/242-7445 or 808/572-6211); the cost is $185 per person, including a hearty lunch. The day begins over coffee and pastries, while owner Frank Levinson matches the horses to the riders, in terms of both skill and personality. Frank leads small groups across pastures, through thick rain forests, alongside streams, and up to waterfalls and pools.

If you're out in Hana, Oheo Stables, Kipahulu Ranch (a mile past Oheo Gulch), Kipahulu ([tel] 808/667-2222), offers two daily rides through the mountains above Oheo Gulch (Seven Sacred Pools). The best deal is the 10:30am ride ($139), which includes a continental breakfast and a snack during the 3-hour adventure (2 1/2 hours in the saddle) into Haleakala National Park. You'll stop at scenic spots like Pipiwai Lookout, where you can glimpse the 400-foot Waimoku Falls.

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Ocean Kayaking

Gliding silently over the water, propelled by a paddle, seeing Maui from the sea the way the early Hawaiians did -- that's what ocean kayaking is all about. One of Maui's best kayak routes is along the Kihei Coast, where there's easy access to calm water. Mornings are always best, as the wind comes up around 11am, making seas choppy and paddling difficult.

For the uninitiated, our favorite kayak-tour operator is Makena Kayak Tours ([tel] 877/879-8426 or 808/879-8426; e-mail: makenakyak@aol.com). Professional guide Dino Ventura leads a 2 1/2-hour trip from Makena Landing and loves taking first-timers over the secluded coral reefs and into remote coves. His wonderful tour will be a highlight of your vacation. It costs $55, including refreshments and snorkel and kayak equipment.

South Pacific Kayaks, 2439 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei ([tel] 800/776-2326 or 808/875-4848; www.mauikayak.com), is Maui's oldest kayak-tour company. Its expert guides lead ocean-kayak trips that include lessons, a guided tour, and snorkeling. Tours run from 2[bf]1/2 to 5 hours and range in price from $59 to $89. South Pacific also offers kayak rentals starting at $30 a day.

In Hana, Hana-Maui Ocean Activities ([tel] 808/248-7711) runs 3-hour tours of Hana's coastline on wide, stable ``no roll'' kayaks for $75 per person.

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Ocean Rafting

If you're semi-adventurous and looking for a more intimate experience with the sea, try ocean rafting. The inflatable rafts hold 6 to 24 passengers. Tours usually include snorkeling and coastal cruising. One of the best (and most reasonable) outfitters is Hawaiian Ocean Raft ([tel] 888/677-RAFT or 808/667-2191; www.ocean-rafting.com), which operates out of Lahaina Harbor. The best deal is the 5-hour morning tour for $69.95 for adults, $49.95 for children ages 5 to 12; it includes three snorkeling stops and time spent searching for dolphins.

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Scuba Diving

Everyone dives Molokini, a marine-life park and one of Hawaii's top dive spots. This crescent-shaped crater has three tiers of diving: a 35-foot plateau inside the crater basin (used by beginning divers and snorkelers), a wall sloping to 70 feet just beyond the inside plateau, and a sheer wall on the outside and backside of the crater that plunges 350 feet. This underwater park is very popular, thanks to calm, clear, protected waters and an abundance of marine life, from manta rays to clouds of yellow butterfly fish.

Stop by any location of Maui Dive Shop (www.mauidiveshop.com), Maui's largest diving retailer, with everything from rentals to scuba-diving instruction to dive-boat charters, for a free copy of the 24-page Maui Dive Guide. Inside are maps of and details on the 20 best shoreline and offshore dives and snorkel sites, each ranked for beginner, intermediate, or advanced snorkelers/divers. Maui Dive Shop has branches in Kihei at Azeka Place II Shopping Center, 1455 S. Kihei Road ([tel] 808/879-3388), and Kamaole Shopping Center ([tel] 808/879-1533); in Lahaina at Lahaina Cannery Mall ([tel] 808/661-5388); and in the Honokowai Market Place ([tel] 808/661-6166). Other locations include Whalers Village, Kaanapali ([tel] 808/661-5117), and Kahana Gateway, Kahana ([tel] 808/669-3800).

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Snorkeling

Snorkeling on Maui is easy -- there are so many great spots where you can just wade in the water with a face mask and look down to see the tropical fish. Mornings are best, as local winds don't kick in until around noon. Maui's best snorkeling beaches include Kapalua Beach; along the Kihei coastline, especially at Kamaole Beach Park III; and along the Wailea coastline, particularly at Ulua Beach. For an off-the-beaten track experience, head south to Makena Beach; the bay is filled with clouds of tropical fish, and on weekdays, the waters are virtually empty.

The snorkeling at Black Rock at Kaanapali is worth the inflated rates at the parking lots that buffer this beach. The prominent craggy cliff at the Sheraton Maui Hotel doesn't just end when it plunges into the ocean. Underwater, the sheer wall continues, creating one of the west side's best snorkeling areas: Turtles, rays, and a variety of snappers and goat fish cruise along the sandy bottom. In the crevices, ledges, and holes of the rock wall, you can find eels, shrimp, lobster, and a range of rainbowed tropical fish.

Two truly terrific snorkel spots are difficult to get to but worth the effort, as they're home to Hawaii's tropical marine life at its best:

Molokini: This sunken crater sits like a crescent moon fallen from the sky, almost midway between Maui and the uninhabited island of Kahoolawe. Molokini stands like a scoop against the tide and serves, on its concave side, as a natural sanctuary and marine-life preserve for tropical fish. Snorkelers commute daily in a fleet of dive boats. Molokini is accessible only by boat. Expect crowds in the high season.

Ahihi-Kinau Natural Preserve: In Ahihi Bay, you can't miss this 2,000-acre state natural area reserve in the lee of Cape Kinau, on Maui's rugged south coast, where, in 1790, Haleakala spilled red-hot lava that ran to the sea. Fishing is strictly forbidden here, and the fish know it; they're everywhere in this series of rocky coves and black-lava tide pools. To get here, drive south of Makena past Puu Olai to Ahihi Bay, where the road turns to gravel (and sometimes seems like it'll disappear under the waves). At Cape Kinau, three four-wheel-drive trails lead across the lava flow; take the shortest one, nearest La Pérouse Bay. If you have a standard car, drive as far as you can, park, and walk the remainder of the way.

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Sportfishing

Marlin, tuna, ono, and mahimahi await the baited hook in Maui's coastal and channel waters. No license is required; just book a sportfishing vessel out of Lahaina or Maalaea harbors. Most charter boats that troll for big-game fish carry six passengers max.

The best way to book a sportfishing charter is through the experts; the best booking desk in the state is Sportfish Hawaii [ST] ([tel]877/388-1376 or 808/396-2607; www.sportfishhawaii.com), which not only books boats on Maui, but on all islands. These fishing vessels have been inspected and must meet rigorous criteria to guarantee that you will have a great time. Prices range from $500 to $1,000 for a full day exclusive charter (you, plus five friends, get the entire boat to yourself), $325 to $700 for a half-day exclusive, or from $165 for a full-day share (you share the boat with five other people) charter.

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Submarine Dives

Plunging 100 feet below the surface of the sea in a state-of-the-art, high-tech submarine is a great way to experience Maui's magnificent underwater world, especially if you're a nonswimmer. Atlantis Submarines, 658 Front St., Lahaina ([tel] 800/548-6262, 888/REAL-SUB, or 808/667-7816; www.goatlantis.com), offers trips out of Lahaina Harbor every hour on the hour from 9am to 1pm; tickets range from $70 to $80 for adults and $39 for children under 12 (children must be at least 3 feet tall). Allow 2 hours for this underwater adventure.

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Surfing

Expert surfers visit Maui in winter, when the surf's really up. The best surfing beaches include Honolua Bay, north of the Kapalua Resort (the third bay past the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua, off the Honoapiilani Hwy., or Hwy. 30); Lahaina Harbor (in summer, there'll be waves just off the channel entrance with a south swell); Maalaea, just outside the breakwall of the Maalaea Harbor (a clean, world-class left); and Hookipa Beach, where surfers get the waves until noon (after that -- in a carefully worked-out compromise to share this prized surf spot -- the windsurfers take over).

Always wanted to learn to surf, but didn't know whom to ask? Call the Nancy Emerson School of Surfing ([tel] 808/244-SURF or 808/874-1183; www.surfclinics.com). Nancy has been surfing since 1961, and has even been a stunt performer for various movies, including Waterworld. She's pioneered a new instructional technique called ``Learn to Surf in One Lesson'' -- you can, really. It's $70 per person for a 2-hour group lesson; private 2-hour classes are $125.

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Tennis

Maui has excellent public tennis courts; all are free and available from daylight to sunset (a few are even lit for night play until 10pm). The courts are available on a first-come, first-served basis; when someone's waiting, limit your play to 45 minutes. For a complete list of public courts, call Maui County of Parks and Recreation ([tel] 808/243-7230). But most public courts require a wait and are not conveniently located near the major resort areas, so most visitors are likely to play at their own hotels for a fee. The exceptions to that caveat are in Kihei (which has courts in Kalama Park on South Kihei Road, and in Waipualani Park on West Waipualani Road, behind the Maui Sunset Condo), in Lahaina (courts are in Malu'uou o lele Park, at Front and Shaw streets), and Hana (courts are in Hana Park, on the Hana Hwy.).

Private tennis courts are available at most resorts and hotels on the island. The Kapalua Tennis Garden and Village Tennis Center, Kapalua Resort ([tel] 808/669-5677), is home to the Kapalua Open, which features the largest purse in the state, on Labor Day weekend. Court rentals are $10 an hour for resort guests and $12 an hour for nonguests. The staff will match you up with a partner if you need one. In Wailea, try the Wailea Tennis Club, 131 Wailea Iki Place ([tel] 808/879-1958), with 11 Plexi-pave courts.

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Whale-Watching

The humpback is the star of the annual whale-watching season, which usually begins in December and can last until May.

Whale-Watching From Shore: The best time to whale watch is between mid-December and April: Just look out to sea. There's no best time of day, but it seems that when the sea is glassy and there's no wind, the whales appear. Once you see one, keep watching in the same vicinity; they may stay down for 20 minutes. Bring a book. And binoculars, if you can. You can rent a pair for $2 a day at Rental Warehouse, at 578 Front St. (near Prison St.), Lahaina ([tel] 808/661-1970); or in Kihei at Azeka Place II, on S. Kihei Road near Lipoa Street ([tel] 808/875-4050).

Some good whale-watching spots on Maui are:

McGregor Point: On the way to Lahaina, there's a scenic lookout at mile marker 9 (just before you get to the Lahaina Tunnel); it's a good viewpoint to scan for whales.

Outrigger Wailea Beach Resort: On the Wailea coastal walk, stop at this resort to look for whales through the telescope installed as a public service by the Hawaii Island Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary.

Olowalu Reef: Along the straight part of Honoapiilani Highway, between McGregor Point and Olowalu, you'll see whales leap out of the water. Sometimes, their appearance brings traffic to a screeching halt: People abandon their cars and run down to the sea to watch, causing a major traffic jam. If you stop, pull off the road so others may pass.

Puu Olai: It's a tough climb up this coastal landmark near the Maui Prince Hotel, but you're likely to be well rewarded: This is the island's best spot for offshore whale-watching. On the 360-foot cinder cone overlooking Makena Beach, you'll be at the right elevation to see Pacific humpbacks as they dodge Molokini and cruise up Alalakeiki Channel between Maui and Kahoolawe. If you don't see one, you'll at least have a whale of a view.

Whale-Watching Cruises: For a closer look, take a whale-watching cruise. Just about all of Hawaii's snorkel and dive boats become whale-watching boats in season; some of them even carry professional naturalists on board so you'll know what you're seeing.

Whale-Watching By Kaya & Raft: Seeing a humpback whale from an ocean kayak or raft is awesome. Capt. Steve's Rafting Excursions ([tel] 808/667-5565) offers 2-hour whale-watching excursions out of Lahaina Harbor for $45 for adults, $35 for children ages 12 and under. Take the early bird trip at 7:30am and spot some whales for only $35 per person.

Experienced kayakers should call South Pacific Kayaks and Outfitters ([tel] 800/776-2326 or 808/875-4848), which leads small groups on 3-hour trips in the calm waters off both Makena and Lahaina for $59 per person.

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Windsurfing

Maui has Hawaii's best windsurfing beaches. In winter, windsurfers from around the world flock to the town of Paia to ride the waves; Hookipa Beach, known all over the globe for its brisk winds and excellent waves, is the site of several world-championship contests. Kanaha, west of Kahului Airport, also has dependable winds. When the winds turn northerly, Kihei is the spot to be; some days, you can spot whales in the distance behind the windsurfers. The northern end of Kihei is best: Ohukai Park, the first beach as you enter South Kiehi Road from the northern end, has not only good winds, but also parking, a long strip of grass to assemble your gear, and good access to the water. Experienced windsurfers here are found in front of the Maui Sunset condo, 1032 S. Kihei Rd., near Waipuilani Street (a block north of McDonald's), which has great windsurfing conditions but a very shallow reef (not good for beginners).

Hawaiian Island Surf and Sport, 415 Dairy Rd., Kahului ([tel] 800/231-6958 or 808/871-4981), offers lessons, rentals, and repairs. Other shops that offer rentals and lessons are Hawaiian Sailboarding Techniques, 425 Koloa St., Kahului ([tel] 800/968-5423 or 808/871-5423), with 2 1/2-hour lessons from $69 and equipment rental from $46 a day; and Maui Windsurf Co., 22 Hana Hwy., Kahului ([tel] 800/872-0999 or 808/877-4816), which has complete equipment rental (board, sail, rig harness, and roof rack) from $45 and 1- or 2 1/2-hour lessons ranging from $69 to $75.

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Maui's Parks & Natural Areas

In the past 3 decades, Maui has grown from a rural island to a fast-paced resort destination, but its natural beauty remains largely inviolate; there are still many places that can be explored only on foot. Those interested in seeing the backcountry -- complete with virgin waterfalls, remote wilderness trails, and quiet, meditative settings -- should head for Haleakala's upcountry or the tropical Hana Coast.

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Guided Hikes

If you'd like a knowledgeable guide to accompany you on a hike, call Maui Hiking Safaris ([tel] 888/445-3963 or 808/573-0168; fax 808/572-3037). Owner Randy Warner takes visitors on half- and full-day hikes into valleys, rain forests, and coastal areas. Randy's been hiking around Maui for more than 15 years and is wise in the ways of Hawaiian history, native flora and fauna, and vulcanology. His rates are $49 for a half day and $79 to $89 for a full day and include day packs, rain parkas, snacks, water, and, on full-day hikes, sandwiches.

Maui's oldest hiking guide company is Hike Maui ([tel] 808/879-5270; fax 808/893-2515), headed by Ken Schmitt, who pioneered guided hikes on the Valley Isle. Hike Maui offers five different hikes a day, ranging from an easy 2-mile stroll in the rain forest, leading to five different pools and waterfalls ($85 for adults, $65 for children ages 15 and under), to a strenuous, full-day hike in Haleakala Crater ($135 for adults, $100 for children). All prices include equipment and transportation.

Venture into the lush West Maui Mountains with an experienced guide on one of the numerous hikes offered by Maui Eco-Adventures ([tel] 877/661-7720 or 808/661-7720; www.ecomaui.com). After a continental breakfast, you'll hike by streams and waterfalls, through native trees and plants, and on to breathtaking vistas. The tour stops for a picnic lunch, swims in secluded pools, and memorable photo ops. The 6-hour excursion costs $160 per person, including meals, a fanny pack with bottled water, and rain gear if necessary. No children under 13 are allowed.

About 1,500 years ago, the verdant Kahakuloa Valley was a thriving Hawaiian village. Today, only a few hundred people live in this secluded hamlet, but old Hawaii still lives on here. Explore the valley with Ekahi Tours ([tel] 888/292-2422 or 808/877-9775). Your guide, a Kahakuloa resident and a Hawaiiana expert, walks you through a taro farm, explains the mystical legends of the valley, and provides you with a peek into ancient Hawaii. The 7 1/2-hour Kahakuloa Valley Tour is $65 for adults, $50 for children under 12; snacks, beverages, and hotel pickup are included.

Haleakala National Park

Into The Wilderness: Sliding Sands & Halemauu Trails: Hiking into Maui's dormant volcano is the best way to see it. The terrain inside the wilderness area of the volcano, which ranges from burnt-red cinder cones to ebony-black lava flows, is simply spectacular. There are some 27 miles of hiking trails, two camping sites, and three cabins.

If you want to venture out on your own, the best route takes in two trails: into the crater along Sliding Sands Trail, which begins on the rim at 9,800 feet and descends into the belly of the beast, to the valley floor at 6,600 feet; and back out along Halemauu Trail. Hardy hikers can consider making the 11.3-mile, one-way descent, which takes 9 hours, and the equally-as-long returning ascent, in a day. The rest of us will extend this steep hike to 2 days.

The trailhead for Sliding Sands is well marked and the trail is easy to follow over lava flows and cinders. As you descend, look around: the view is breathtaking. In the afternoon, waves of clouds flow into the Kaupo and Koolau gaps. Vegetation is spare to nonexistent at the top, but the closer you get to the valley floor, the more vegetation you'll see: bracken ferns, pili grass, shrubs, even flowers. On the floor, the trail travels across rough lava flows, passing by rare silversword plants, volcanic vents, and multicolored cinder cones.

Hiking From The Summit: If you hike from the crater rim down Kaupo Gap to the ocean, more than 20 miles away, you'll pass through several climate zones. On a clear day, you can see every island except Kauai on the trip down.

Approaching Kipahulu From Hana: If you drive to Kipahulu, you'll have to approach it from the Hana Highway, as it's not accessible from the summit. From the ranger station, it's a short hike above the famous Oheo Gulch (which was misnamed the Seven Sacred Pools in the 1940s) to two spectacular waterfalls. The first, Makahiku Falls, is easily reached from the central parking area: The trailhead begins near the ranger station. Pipiwai Trail leads you up to the road and beyond for a half mile to the overlook. If you hike another 1 1/2 miles up the trail across two bridges and through a bamboo forest, you reach Waimoku Falls. It's a good uphill hike, but press on to avoid the pool's crowd. In hard rain, streams swell quickly. Always be aware of your surroundings.

Skyline Trail, Polipoli Springs State Recreation Area

This is some hike -- strenuous but worth every step if you like seeing the big picture. It's 8 miles, all downhill, with a dazzling 100-mile view of the islands dotting the blue Pacific, plus the West Maui Mountains, which seem like a separate island.

The trail is just outside Haleakala National Park at Polipoli Springs State Recreation Area; however, you access it by going through the national park to the summit. It starts just beyond the Puu Ulaula summit building on the south side of Science City and follows the southwest rift zone of Haleakala from its lunarlike cinder cones to a cool redwood grove. The trail drops 3,800 feet on a 4-hour hike to the recreation area in the 12,000-acre Kahikinui Forest Reserve. If you'd rather drive, you'll need a four-wheel-drive vehicle.

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Polipoli State Park

One of the most unusual hiking experiences in the state can be found at Polipoli State Park, part of the 21,000-acre Kula and Kahikinui Forest Reserve on the slope of Haleakala. At Polipoli, it's hard to believe that you're in Hawaii: First of all, it's cold, even in summer, since the elevation is 5,300 to 6,200 feet; second, this former forest of native koa, ohia, and mamane trees, which was overlogged in the 1800s, was reforested in the 1930s with introduced species: pine, Monterey cypress, ash, sugi, red adler, redwood, and several varieties of eucalyptus. The result is a cool area, with muted sunlight filtered by towering trees.

The Polipoli Loop is an easy 5-mile hike that takes about 3 hours; dress warmly for it. Take the Haleakala Highway (Hwy. 37) to Keokea and turn right onto Highway 337; after less than a half mile, turn on Waipoli Road, which climbs swiftly. After 10 miles, Waipoli Road ends at the Polipoli State Park campgrounds. The well-marked trailhead is next to the parking lot, near a stand of Monterey cypresses; the tree-lined trail offers the best view of the island.

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Waianapanapa State Park

Tucked in a tropical jungle, on the outskirts of the little coastal town of Hana, is Waianapanapa State Park, a black-sand beach set in an emerald forest.

The Hana-Waianapanapa Coast Trail is an easy 6-mile hike that takes you back in time. Allow 4 hours to walk along this relatively flat trail, which parallels the sea, along lava cliffs and a forest of lauhala trees. The best time to take the hike is either in the early morning or late afternoon, when the light on the lava and surf makes for great photos. Midday is the worst time; not only is it hot (lava intensifies the heat), but there's also no shade or potable water available.

There's no formal trailhead; join the route at any point along the Waianapanapa Campground and go in either direction. Along the trail, you'll see remains of an ancient heiau (temple), stands of lauhala trees, caves, a blowhole, and a remarkable plant, naupaka, that flourishes along the beach. Upon close inspection, you'll see that the naupaka have only half blossoms; according to Hawaiian legend, a similar plant living in the mountains has the other half of the blossoms. One ancient explanation is that the two plants represent never-to-be-reunited lovers: As the story goes, the couple bickered so much that the gods, fed up with their incessant quarreling, banished one lover to the mountain and the other to the sea.

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