In recent years, St. Lucia (pronounced LOO-sha) has become one of the most popular destinations in the Caribbean, with some of its finest resorts. The heaviest tourist development is concentrated in the northwest, between the capital, Castries, and the northern end of the island, where there's a string of white-sand beaches.

The rest of St. Lucia remains relatively unspoiled, a checkerboard of green-mantled mountains, valleys, banana plantations, a bubbling volcano, wild orchids, and fishing villages. There's a hint of the South Pacific about the island, as well as a mixed French and British heritage.

A mountainous island of some 240 square miles, St. Lucia has about 120,000 inhabitants. The capital, Castries, is built on the southern shore of a large harbor surrounded by hills.

Native son Derek Walcott was born in Castries. His father was an unpublished poet who died when Walcott was just a year old, and his mother was a former headmistress at the Methodist school on St. Lucia. In 1992, Walcott won the Nobel Prize for literature. He prefers, however, not to tout the charms of St. Lucia, telling the press, ``I don't want everyone to go there and overrun the place.'' Alas, his warning has come too late.

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Visitor Information

In the United States, the St. Lucia Tourist Board office is located at 820 Second Ave., New York, NY 10017 ([tel] 800/456-3984 or 212/867-2950).

On the island, the main tourist office is at Point Seraphine, Castries Harbour ([tel] 758/452-4094). In Soufrière, there's a branch on Bay Street ([tel] 758/459-7200).

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Getting Around

By taxi. Taxis are ubiquitous on the island, and most drivers are eager to please. The drivers have to be quite experienced to cope with the narrow, hilly, switchback roads outside the capital. They also have special training that allows them to serve as guides. Their cabs are unmetered, but tariffs for all standard trips are fixed by the government.

By rental car. Remember to drive on the left, and try to avoid some of the island's more obvious potholes. Drive carefully and honk your horn while going around the blind hairpin turns. You'll need a St. Lucia driver's license ($21), which you can purchase at either airport when you pick up your rental car.

Avis ([tel] 800/331-1212 in the U.S., or 758/452-2700), Budget ([tel] 800/527-0700 in the U.S., or 758/452-0233), and Hertz ([tel] 800/654-3001 in the U.S., or 758/452-0679) have offices at (or will deliver cars to) both of the island's airports. Each also has an office in Castries and, in some cases, at some of the island's major hotels.

By bus. Minibuses (with names like ``Lucian Love'') and jitneys connect Castries with such main towns as Soufrière and Vieux Fort. They're cheap, but they're generally overcrowded and often filled with produce on its way to market. Buses for Cap Estate, in the northern part of the island, leave from Jeremy Street in Castries, near the market. Buses going to Vieux Fort and Soufrière depart from Bridge Street in front of the department store.

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Entry Requirements & Customs

U.S., British, and Canadian citizens need valid passports, plus an ongoing or return ticket. At either airport, Customs may be a hassle if there's the slightest suspicion, regardless of how ill-founded, that you're carrying illegal drugs.

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Money

The official monetary unit is the Eastern Caribbean dollar (EC$). Most of the prices quoted in this section are in U.S. dollars, as they are accepted by nearly all hotels, restaurants, and shops. Banks are open Monday to Thursday from 8am to 1pm and on Friday from 8am to noon and 3 to 5pm.

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Weather

This little island, lying in the path of the trade winds, has year-round temperatures of 70 to 90F.

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Tipping

Most hotels and restaurants add a 10% service charge (ask if it's been included in the initial hotel rate you're quoted). If you're pleased with the service in a restaurant, by all means, supplement with an extra 5%. Taxi drivers expect 10% of the fare.

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Safety

St. Lucia has its share of crime, like every other place these days. Use common sense and protect yourself and your valuables. If you've got it, don't flaunt it! Don't pick up hitchhikers if you're driving around the island. The use of narcotic drugs is illegal, and their possession or sale could lead to stiff fines or jail.

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