Jokes abound about neighbor-island nightlife being an oxymoron, but there are a few pockets of entertainment here, largely in the Kailua-Kona and Kohala Coast resorts. Your best bet is to check the local newspapers -- Honolulu Advertiser and West Hawaii Today -- for special shows, such as fund-raisers, that are held at local venues. Other than that, regular entertainment in the local clubs usually consists of mellow Hawaiian music at sunset, small hula groups, or jazz trios.

Some of the island's best events are held at Kahilu Theatre, in Waimea ([tel] 808/885-6017), so be on the lookout for any mention of it during your stay. Hula, the top Hawaiian music groups from all over Hawaii, drama, and all aspects of the performing arts use Kahilu as a venue.

Luaus In & Around Kailua-Kona

Kona Village Luau: The longest continuously running luau on the island is still the best -- a combination of an authentic Polynesian venue with a menu that works, impressive entertainment, and the spirit of old Hawaii. The feast begins with a ceremony in a sandy kiawe grove, where the pig is unearthed after a full day of cooking in a rock-heated underground oven. In the open-air dining room, next to prehistoric lagoons and tropical gardens, you'll sample a Polynesian buffet: poisson cru, poi, laulau (butterfish, seasoned pork, and taro leaves cooked in ti leaves), lomi salmon, squid luau (cooked taro leaves with steamed octopus and coconut milk), ahi poke, opihi (fresh limpets), coconut pudding, taro chips, sweet potatoes, chicken long rice, steamed breadfruit, and the shredded kalua pig. The generosity is striking. The Polynesian revue, a fast-moving, mesmerizing tour of South Pacific cultures, manages -- miraculously -- to avoid being clichéd or corny. In Kona Village Resort. [tel] 808/325-5555. Reservations required. Part of the full American plan for Kona Village guests; for nonguests, $74 adults, $45 children 6-12, $21.50 children 2-5. AE, DC, MC, V. Fri 5:30pm.

Keauhou Beach Resort's ``Traditions at Kahalu'u'': The hot newcomer on the luau scene is ``Traditions at Kahalu'u,'' taking place Sunday and Thursday in a lush grove at ocean's edge. The evening begins with demonstrations at the edge of the gorgeous lava-rimmed shoreline, where seabirds (sandpipers, herons) peck away at reefs frequented by lazily swimming turtles. Hawaiian crafters from the region offer a taste of pre-Western Hawaii by pounding poi, making and stamping tapa, net fishing, and weaving lauhala. Elizabeth Lee, Hawaii's master of lau hala weaving, is here regularly with her strands of Kona pandanus. The grounds, near pre-Christian heiau and natural springs favored by Hawaiian monarchs, are reason alone to come. The program, by the gifted Lim family, is an outpouring of chant and dance that covers the history of Hawaii, and of the region known as Kahalu'u, in an entertaining format. The Hawaiian food, from poi to poke to kalua pig, fish, and ethnic introductions, is prepared by local Hawaiian caterers and the Keauhou kitchen, who know and love local foods. In the Keauhou Beach Hotel, 78-6740 Alii Dr., Kailua-Kona. [tel] 808/ 322-3441.

The Kohala Coast Resorts

Evening entertainment here usually takes the form of a luau or indistinctive lounge music at scenic terrace bars with scintillating sunset views. But newcomer Outrigger Waikoloa's Hawaii Calls restaurant and adjoining Clipper Lounge are a bright new venue for local musicians, with live music nightly from 8:30 to 11:30pm.

The Friday luau at the Kona Village Resort is the best choice on the island. Otherwise, the resort roundup includes the Hilton Waikoloa Village's Legends of the Pacific Friday dinner show ([tel] 808/885-1234) and the Tuesday luau at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel ([tel] 808/882-7222).

A popular night spot on the Kohala Coast is the Honu Bar ([tel] 808/885-6622) at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel, a sleek, chic place for light supper, live light jazz with dancing, gourmet desserts, fine wines, and after-dinner drinks. You can order toothsome pastas and light suppers with fine wines by the glass when most other restaurants are closing.

If you get a chance to see the Lim Family, don't miss them. Immensely talented in hula and song, members of the family perform in the intimate setting of the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel's Atrium Bar ([tel] 808/885-6622), at the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel's open-air Reef Lounge ([tel] 808/880-1111), and at the Aston Keauhou's oceanfront luau (see above).

Hilo

Hilo's most notable events are special or annual occasions such as the Merrie Monarch Hula Festival, the state's largest, which continues for a week after Easter Sunday. The festivities include hula competitions from all over the world, demonstrations, and crafts fairs. A staggering spirit of pageantry takes over the entire town. Tickets are always hard to come by; call [tel] 808/935-9168 well ahead of time.

A special new venue is the old Palace Theater, 38 Haili St. ([tel] 808/934-7010), restored and in action thanks to the diligent Friends of the Palace Theater. The neoclassical wonder first opened in 1925, was last restored in 1940, and has reopened for first-run movies while restoration continues. Film festivals, art movies, hula, community events, concerts (including the Slack Key Guitar Festival), and all manner of special entertainment take place at this historical marvel.

Special concerts are also held at the Hawaii Naniloa Hotel's Crown Room ([tel] 808/969-3333), the Hilo venue for name performers from Oahu and the outer islands. You can always count on a great act here, whether it's the Brothers Cazimero or Willie K. For dancing and live music on weekends, head to Fiascos, at Waiakea Square ([tel] 808/935-7666). On Friday and Saturday nights, dancing and live contemporary and Hawaiian music take over the second floor, from 9pm to closing.

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